lipoff delved deeply into some offal selections at tapas spot Toro in a recent visit, and found it lip-smackingly good. “Crispy sweetbreads with a kalamansi sauce were terrific—just slightly crispy on the outside and deliciously tender on the inside.” Bone marrow was also lovely: “Fatty, juicy, succulent,” raves lipoff, set off by a salad of citrus and radish, and served with toasted bread topped with oxtail, which lipoff calls “nothing special.” Ask for a demitasse spoon to scoop the marrow out of the big half-bone it’s served in, as a marrow spoon does not accompany the dish.
Also on the menu: smoked beef tongue, served thick, rare, and juicy, with lentils and salsa verde. It “impressed even the offal-wary, yet still had a very distinctive taste and texture,” says lipoff. MC Slim JB agrees, adding that chef Jamie Bissonnette, “is the king of parts.”
For the offal-averse, there’s plenty on the menu to occupy the palate. Particularly popular with hounds: sweet/salty/tangy dates stuffed with Marcona almonds and blue cheese wrapped in serrano ham; simply prepared (olive oil and salt) Brussels sprouts; and grilled corn with cotija cheese, lime, and aioli.
Toro [South End]
1704 Washington Street, Boston