Delicate Shark-Fin Dumplings and the Secret $1.79 Menu

S&T Hong Kong Seafood is the new restaurant in the old Tai Wu space. It’s truly new (new owners and everything), not just another name shift. For lunch, there’s dim sum, ordered off a check-off list.

The star of the meal here is boon tong gao ($5), shark-fin dumpling soup. The wrapper of this large dumpling is perfectly thin and fragile, almost gossamer, says Melanie Wong. Inside, there’s chunks of fresh scallop blended with shrimp, grass mushrooms, shreds of dried scallop, black mushroom, and more. And it’s in broth–double-boiled broth, crystal clear, greaseless and light yet intensely flavorful, with briny, savory, and meaty components singing perfect harmony. There’s plenty of this soup, too–enough for a little bowl each for four people. This boon tong gao compares very well to the gold standard version served at the dearly departed Seafood Harbor in Millbrae. This version is a bit deeper and not as ethereal; the dumpling skin is better, and there’s real shark’s fin–a two-inch piece hidden beneath the dumpling.

Beef chow fun comes dry, with no bean sprouts. It’s an excellent dish, with a nice sear on the thin and tender slices of pounded beef. Rice noodles soak up the beefy flavors. Instead of bean sprouts, there are yellow leeks, green onions, and thick slices of charred yellow onion.

The menu includes a $1.79 section, printed impossibly small and in Chinese. It lists very nice salt and pepper calamari–a considerably larger portion than you might expect for the price. The texture of the squid is spot on: tender, with the slightest bit of resistance. It’s tasty, too, with fresh chilies, deep-fried garlic bits, scallions, and a good dose of salt and pepper, which brings out the sweetness of the squid. The batter’s thick, but airy and ungreasy. Sticky rices are good, though the dish of sticky rice inside Chinese bread is a bit bland.

theSauce provides us with a translation of the $1.79 menu:

- Steamed white buns or flower rolls
- Home style green onion pancake
- Red bean cake
- Tofu hua or super sweet silken tofu
- Beef balls with bamboo shoots
- Mala gao or mala steam cake
- Sticky rice roll
- Salt and pepper salmon cheeks
- Salt and pepper calamari
- Chinese chives with chunks of pig blood
- Blanched pigs knuckle or pork (not 100% sure of this one)
- Salt and pepper tofu
- Chow jew style stewed tofu
- Albalone flavored chicken feet

Also, translations of the other untranslated items from the dim sum menu. In the second column, below taro dumplings, in the $2.80 section:

- Pan fried taro cake
- Pan fried seafood eggplant
- Pan fried seafood mushroom
- Pan fried seafood bell pepper
- Shrimp rice rolls
- Shrimp with spinach dumpling
- Shrimp with cilantro dumpling
- Pine nuts with veggies dumpling
- BBQ pork and lapcheung turnip cake
- Shanghai soup dumplings
- Pork and veggies steam dumplings
- Pork tofu skin roll (not sure)
- Spareribs with rice noodle or rice powder steam spareribs
- Shrimp with corn sauce
- Egg yolk thousand layer cake
- Egg yolk mala roll
- Sesame or peanut rice balls

The $4.20 section is hard to translate because “it’s one of those poem translations.” Here’s the best effort:

- Side street flavor rice rolls or chitterlings
- Tofu skin roll with seafood.
- Soy sauce yellow chives chow mein

S & T Hong Kong Seafood [Sunset]
Formerly Tai Wu
2578 Noriega St., at 33rd Ave., San Francisco
415-665-8338
Map

Board Links: $1.79 Calamari and Excellent Boon Tong Gao