Telepan Revisited

From the amuse bouche on, zGustibus was sold on the farm-to-table experience at Telepan. The three-part curtain-raiser for his recent dinner comprised chilled carrot soup with olive oil, crostini with mushrooms and beans, and puff pastry filled with cheese. “So delicious, sweet and fresh tasting. It was a definite signal of the kind of greenmarket experience we were about to have.”

At this seven-month-old restaurant on the Upper West Side, chef Bill Telepan (Judson Grill) shows a soft spot for eggs. Two winning dishes: coddled eggs atop collard greens and scrapple, and pea carbonara with pancetta and poached egg (which you mix into a delicious mess in the egg pasta). “If you like to break eggs on top of things, then this is definitely your restaurant.”

In some courses, the accompaniments outshine the star ingredients. Halibut comes out crisply seared outside, moist and flavorful inside–yet it’s upstaged by the chanterelles, wild spinach, and killer crisped gnocchi it’s served over. Overall, though, the end result is a delicious and well-conceived meal. “A lot of times a restaurant will have a great menu but the food doesn’t live up,” observes zGustibus. “At Telepan, the food definitely lived up to the menu.”

Brunch is no letdown, early reports suggest. Even at $25, it’s “an enormous value,” says anon646–a prix fixe deal of two courses plus a generous bread basket of first-rate scones, cinnamon rolls, small doughnuts, and assorted cakes. Winning starters include smoked brook trout (a Telepan signature) on potato-chive blini. Recommended main courses: lobster-scallion omelette and a blowout babka-style chocolate French toast, as amazing as it sounds.

Telepan [Upper West Side]
72 W. 69th St., between Columbus Ave. and Central Park West, Manhattan
212-580-4300
Map

Board Links: Telepan: Summer Menu (Long Review)
Telepan Review?