Corn Chips Cause Joyous Weeping

FoodShouldTasteGood Chips

FoodShouldTasteGood Chips

I Paid: $2.69 for a 6-ounce bag (prices may vary by region)

Taste: stars

Marketing: 5 stars

FoodShouldTasteGood is a clunky name for a brand of chips, but everything else about these things—their chic bags, their simple lists of natural ingredients, their flavor and crunch—is as elegant as can be. Currently, there are 11 varieties, and if a sampling of 4 flavors is representative, then this line is one of the best things going on in the entire department of savory casual snacking.

All the chips I tried were primarily powered by the soulful taste of stone-ground corn, and all had secondary (and even tertiary) flavors that were clean and dynamic. The least impressive was Buffalo, which had a little cayenne flavor and nothing more. Better was the Sweet Potato flavor, which had a distinct, sweet, earthy kick of sweet potato on the back end of the chip. The Multigrain variety combined flax, sunflower, sesame, and corn in a balanced yet lively fashion.

Finally, the Chocolate variety—which promised high drama with a potential for a catastrophic crash—turned out to be soberly and confidently executed: The not-too-sweet chocolate finish was heavy on cocoa and light on artificial Hershey’s-style flavor. It was salty enough to still qualify as a savory snack, but you could definitely pair it with dessert and not be viewed as a crazy person.

These FoodShouldTasteGood things are truly addictive chips with a crazy twist: dignity.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. Follow CHOW on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.