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Many people think that when they sear a piece of meat (that is, brown the outside of it using a high temperature), they are creating a protective crust that locks in the meat’s juices. But this is completely untrue, says Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen.
“Your ears and eyes will tell you every time that searing doesn’t seal in the juices,” says McGee. “The sizzling sound comes from the constant flow of moisture from the meat onto the hot pan, where it’s vaporized. Turn the meat to cook the other side and you see juices seep through the seared side, and rest the meat afterwards and it leaks juices onto the plate.”
McGee says the juiciness of cooked meat is just a result of time cooked: Rare steak is juicier than well-done steak. He also says that well-marbled meat seems moister than a lean cut if cooked to the well-done stage because the fat will melt and “permeate” the meat while it’s cooking.
Does this mean you shouldn’t bother searing? No, but sear for the right reason: to develop flavor. When you brown meat it causes a reaction that forms the compounds we associate with “nutty, meaty, roasted, toasted, burnt, or caramel” flavors, says Jason Behrends, a spokesperson for the Institute of Food Technologists and research professor in the Mississippi State University Department of Food Science, Nutrition, and Health Promotion. In other words, searing helps create a tasty steak or burger.
I'll just keep searing my steak. My mouth tells me that's the right thing to do.
I think this is the most useless discussion I have ever read on CH, close to discussing the sex of angels... If you like your meat rare, you need very high heat to start with (which will automatically create a crust). If you like it well done, it does not matter and you might just as well boil it on low heat... How's that?
you cant seal the juice in but you can capture this juice and get enhanced flavors . simply coat the meat with flour this is especially helpful if you like it cooked med-well. the other way to make use the juice flavors is to de glaze the pan and reduce to a few drops and drip on the meat chef jerry @ bernard's catering
Chemist and world famous Chef Heston Blumenthal, did a TV series 'Kitchen Chemistry' in the UK on Discovery Channel which answered these questions around searing of meat.
With a team of scientists Blumenthal carefully tested these claims under controlled conditions with identical cuts of meat at a variety of different temperatures. By carefully cooking, weighing and testing for moisture content...+READ
Chemist and world famous Chef Heston Blumenthal, did a TV series 'Kitchen Chemistry' in the UK on Discovery Channel which answered these questions around searing of meat.
With a team of scientists Blumenthal carefully tested these claims under controlled conditions with identical cuts of meat at a variety of different temperatures. By carefully cooking, weighing and testing for moisture content Blumenthal overwhelmingly proved that Harold McGee is correct. Actually searing does the reverse to what many think and drives out juices. It does however, enhance flavours.-COLLAPSE
We might now have come full circle in understanding Brillat-Savarin's idea of "osmazome". Meats certainly contain juices that we ought not lose.
We are very much like the blind men discovering the elephant right now. So much received wisdom that works because it has worked for centuries regardless of its true procedure. So much scientific wisdom that works because it's scientific. And yet the...+READ
We might now have come full circle in understanding Brillat-Savarin's idea of "osmazome". Meats certainly contain juices that we ought not lose.
We are very much like the blind men discovering the elephant right now. So much received wisdom that works because it has worked for centuries regardless of its true procedure. So much scientific wisdom that works because it's scientific. And yet the two forms of wisdom disagree.
What that tells me is that we are most likely in the very middle of a classical argument. We have seen the thesis and the antithesis, we are only waiting for the synthesis.
To me, James Beard makes sense. To me, Harold McGee makes sense. And yet these are opposite positions. To me, drumfish's Vancouver chef makes the most interesting sense of all and therein I expect we will find our synthesis.
X-COLLAPSE
What if you coat it in cellophane and then sear it?
Weren't the results of Alton Brown's experiments a net *loss* of moisture when you seared first? His conclusion was to sear last--getting the flavor while reducing moisture loss that results from searing then cooking.
I'm beginning to learn how to cook. Everything I've read states that the purpose of searing meat is to create fond to deglaze and make your dish more tasty. Everything I've read says that searing meat seals in the juices is a myth.
""Well, this might very well be true, but then Chow has a problem: It has a Herbert Keller video quoting him as saying searing meat seals in the juices "
While you can not seal in 100% of the juice you can indeed sear meat and have a better tasting product. Meat that is seared appeals to us and we salivate making the flesh taste juicier. You can quote McGee on that (Note high lights on the...+READ
""Well, this might very well be true, but then Chow has a problem: It has a Herbert Keller video quoting him as saying searing meat seals in the juices "
While you can not seal in 100% of the juice you can indeed sear meat and have a better tasting product. Meat that is seared appeals to us and we salivate making the flesh taste juicier. You can quote McGee on that (Note high lights on the bottom of page 151) . Make no mistake about it Mcgee believes searing to be a good thing.
If your steak or burger tastes juicier then that's what's really important.
Understanding the science is fun and but Chef's deal with practical application. What I really want to know from Merideth is if Keller snorted or laughed when CH mentioned this before filming?
:)-COLLAPSE
does it work on bacon ? lol
"Well, this might very well be true, but then Chow has a problem: It has a Herbert Keller video quoting him as saying searing meat seals in the juices (it's a video of him making a burger). "
To say that you can't teach an old dog new tricks is a sound, and generally true proverb. Classical cooking has pounded this point in for years and years into its practitioners, and it has only been with...+READ
"Well, this might very well be true, but then Chow has a problem: It has a Herbert Keller video quoting him as saying searing meat seals in the juices (it's a video of him making a burger). "
To say that you can't teach an old dog new tricks is a sound, and generally true proverb. Classical cooking has pounded this point in for years and years into its practitioners, and it has only been with recent years that we've been rethinking our teachings. I'll also note that the fellow also used an egg (salmonella anyone?) to indent the burger, and recommended kobe beef for it... the French have a queer fascination with burgers, certainly. Take anything anyone tells you with a grain of salt. Including me :)
To Wicket's question, I posit another. If most everyone in the world thought that the sun only rose because a rooster crowed to wake it up, would it be best to dispel such a myth, or to continue the belief since non-believers are considered elitist snobs? After all, in the end the sun still rises.
As for me, I like knowledge. It's empowering, no matter its face value.-COLLAPSE
Many years ago I discussed this with a chef in Vancouver, at a rotisserie restaurant called La Brochette. His method was to warm the meat on low heat until cooked to, say. just less than rare right through. Then he seared the meat for a brief time on high heat, to brown and caramelize the surface. Of course, this is the obverse of the received wisdom. It works perfectly on all but the thinnest...+READ
Many years ago I discussed this with a chef in Vancouver, at a rotisserie restaurant called La Brochette. His method was to warm the meat on low heat until cooked to, say. just less than rare right through. Then he seared the meat for a brief time on high heat, to brown and caramelize the surface. Of course, this is the obverse of the received wisdom. It works perfectly on all but the thinnest cuts of meat.
So, for example, for a 1 1/2 " thick strip sirloin, massage some olive oil into the steak, salt and pepper both sides. Grill on low heat about 4 minutes each side, then sear at highest heat for about 2 minutes each side. Let the meat rest (repose) for maybe 10 minutes.-COLLAPSE
This is a silly debate. Anyone who has ever actually paid attention to a steak while its being grilled knows that searing it does not seal the surface whatsoever. Not even slightly. Why is a well-done steak always tough and dry? Because all the juices have leeched out of it. Among other flesh toughening reactions caused by heat. Now, not pressing down on the steak five hundred times while its...+READ
This is a silly debate. Anyone who has ever actually paid attention to a steak while its being grilled knows that searing it does not seal the surface whatsoever. Not even slightly. Why is a well-done steak always tough and dry? Because all the juices have leeched out of it. Among other flesh toughening reactions caused by heat. Now, not pressing down on the steak five hundred times while its cooking (contrary to the 'bob the bbq-er' method of food preparation), and not flipping it over and over and over and over, will help. And, as other posters have already noted, letting it rest after its off the grill is key.-COLLAPSE
mikeb is a tool
this guy is absolutely 100% correct. a college a couple years back did a study to prove this guys theory. searing only develops flavor, it has nothing to do with "sealing in juices"
MikeB3542 - your post hits on what I have always thought. Even when Keller, Tsai and many other chefs said searing "seals in" the juices, I never thought all of the juices were sealed in - and I don't think that's ever what these chefs truly meant. But I did (and do) think searing meat keeps in more juices than not searing. If that's a myth too, then I'm happy with it. Of course, as others have...+READ
MikeB3542 - your post hits on what I have always thought. Even when Keller, Tsai and many other chefs said searing "seals in" the juices, I never thought all of the juices were sealed in - and I don't think that's ever what these chefs truly meant. But I did (and do) think searing meat keeps in more juices than not searing. If that's a myth too, then I'm happy with it. Of course, as others have said, temperature, resting and cut of meat are huge keys as well.-COLLAPSE
why does this even matter and really who cares other than a bunch of foody snobs??? What does matter is that when you plate your steak, you and your guests are so enamored with the taste that all you can say is: "ahhhhhhhhhhh, dee effing licous" Read McGee's book cover to cover...at the end of the day that's what he wants you to achieve with your cooking
I think the folks who are totally against the notion that searing "seals in the juices" miss the boat because they see it as an either/or proposition. They miss the forest for the trees.
Is the crust that forms during a sear a perfect seal? Of course not. But it does hold some moisture back, and it holds enough back long enough to make a difference.
Of course, the bit of moisture that the...+READ
I think the folks who are totally against the notion that searing "seals in the juices" miss the boat because they see it as an either/or proposition. They miss the forest for the trees.
Is the crust that forms during a sear a perfect seal? Of course not. But it does hold some moisture back, and it holds enough back long enough to make a difference.
Of course, the bit of moisture that the crust does manage to hold back does contribute some to overall juiciness. But the extremely high heat of a sear also helps to retain moisture by (oddly enough) keeping the meat cool.
Crusts act as insulators, and more importantly they are dry zones. A proper sear happens when the temperature of the surface of the meat goes over the BP of water -- way over. This can't happen if there is a lot of moisture, since boiling water consumes a tremendous amount of heat. That's why the surface of meats that are to be seared are patted dry.
The bit of steam that is generated serves to push moisture up and away from the crust (that is why you see drops of blood form on the uncooked surface of thinner burgers as they cook).
OK, now imagine a sear gone totally wrong. Whatever benefit that the crust would have provided is non-existant. Any insulative properties are gone, too. So we are already in trouble: the meat is starting out with a little less moisture and the heat is getting deeper into the meat.
And since the cooking surface of the meat stays moist, the heat of the pan is turning that moisture into steam, which depresses the temperature, so no Maillard reaction can happen. Worse, steam drives the temperature of the meat way up -- melting away too much fat and driving off moisture. And more meat ends up cooked well-done.
So the notion that searing creates a little plastic bag around the meat is totally busted. So what? The reality is that searing does ensure that the meat retains the maximum amount of juices, and helps to prevent overcooking. If Herb Keller want to call that "sealing in the juices", I guess I am good with that!
And no, a steak is not like a baloon, it's more like a big sponge. (Though a burger with its "non-existant" seal created by searing, can indeed blow up like a baloon!) Steaks gush when they haven't had time to rest because the heat of cooking has pushed out many of the juices, except in the center where the meat has cooked least. By resting, you are allowing the cooked (dry) meat to re-absorb these juices.-COLLAPSE
Don't forget that some chefs are also showmen, meaning they may say all the things people have been trained to understand/believe to keep them focused on the show. SBP has it right, the technique of resting the meat is what "makes" it juicy. i love when people come over for dinner and remark about how good the meat is and ask where I got it, when all I did was apply a few simple techniques...+READ
Don't forget that some chefs are also showmen, meaning they may say all the things people have been trained to understand/believe to keep them focused on the show. SBP has it right, the technique of resting the meat is what "makes" it juicy. i love when people come over for dinner and remark about how good the meat is and ask where I got it, when all I did was apply a few simple techniques (searing, finishing in oven or cool side of the grill, resting the meat). It's like they think they supermarket or butcher has the magical touch, not the one who cooked it (though I do admit there are better or worse qualities of meat, but you can do a lot with a little if you do it right).
And I'm with KenWritez, Alton did the whole demo on a show and proved no juices are actually seared in.-COLLAPSE
You are correct, BUT, while searing doesn't seal in juices, you can still affect the amount of juice retained in a steak/burger: LET IT REST after cooking. A hot steak is like a hot air baloon, swelling with pressure from the heat. You slice into it, and juice will gush out -- in a minute, the plate will be full of it, and your steak, not so much. This is no myth. Let it rest a few minutes, cut...+READ
You are correct, BUT, while searing doesn't seal in juices, you can still affect the amount of juice retained in a steak/burger: LET IT REST after cooking. A hot steak is like a hot air baloon, swelling with pressure from the heat. You slice into it, and juice will gush out -- in a minute, the plate will be full of it, and your steak, not so much. This is no myth. Let it rest a few minutes, cut into it, and no pool of juices.-COLLAPSE
Alton Brown, my source for all things Food Geeky, concurs with Roxanne and McGee. As regards Ming Tsai and Hubert Keller repeating this myth, even experienced craftsmen still rely on what they're taught and will in turn promulgate it unless they question it and disprove it. It could be that Tsai and Keller simply haven't had reason yet to question their teaching on this topic.
There are cooks/chefs out there that support what roxanne has noted in this article and this has been proven time an again to be true, she also might have noted that this browning process is also called the Maillard reaction.
Hi Thomas64,
When we shoot videos with chefs, we alert them about some of the potential controversies (like this searing meat controversy), but ultimately, it's up to the chef about what they say in the video. The You're Doing It All Wrong is really up to the person who is presenting it. Thanks for noticing and commenting on this, and thanks for watching our videos,
Meredith (video producer of...+READ
Hi Thomas64,
When we shoot videos with chefs, we alert them about some of the potential controversies (like this searing meat controversy), but ultimately, it's up to the chef about what they say in the video. The You're Doing It All Wrong is really up to the person who is presenting it. Thanks for noticing and commenting on this, and thanks for watching our videos,
Meredith (video producer of CHOW)-COLLAPSE
Well, this might very well be true, but then Chow has a problem: It has a Herbert Keller video quoting him as saying searing meat seals in the juices (it's a video of him making a burger). Is Chow saying Keller is wrong? To be honest, I don't know. But I do know I heard Ming Tsai say the same thing. So, if it's a myth, these two chefs have bought into it.