Obsessives: Pizza

Obsessives: Pizza

By Meredith Arthur and Eric Slatkin

An oven built by hand, tile by tile. Four pizzas on the menu, with no fancy-pants toppings. Anthony Mangieri does one thing at Una Pizza Napoletana, and he does it the very best way he can. (A note on mozzarella: With problems over tainted mozzarella from Naples, Mangieri has found a domestic version, Bubalus Bubalis, that he says “is really great on the pizza and super fresh.”) Update: Mangieri closed his New York pizzeria in the summer of 2009. He reopened it in San Francisco in 2010.

This is a regular series called Obsessives, in which CHOW explores the worlds of singularly focused food-industry figures. These are the people with the dirty hands, answering detailed questions about the work they do.