The Year in Food 2007

Bruni Hits a Nerve

After New York Times restaurant reviewer Frank Bruni slagged Kobe Club, its owner, Jeffrey Chodorow, went ballistic, taking out a full-page ad in the paper in which he denounced the critic as a poseur. Bruni had panned the pricey steakhouse, whose ceiling is decorated with samurai swords pointing at diners’ heads, as “scary indeed.” Chodorow, a financier with a string of restaurants and a criminal record (fraud), whined that “I and my staff worked extremely hard” on the restaurant, and dissed Bruni as having “no background” in food. Adding insult to injury (and more grist for Gawker), Bruni reviewed the Penthouse Executive Club’s steakhouse shortly thereafter, awarding the strip club’s eats one star to Kobe’s zero. —Lessley Anderson