Love of the Flesh
Meaty meat for discerning meat-lovers—offal, charcuterie, pork belly, steaks—had another strong year in 2007. London’s Fergus Henderson’s newest offal missive, Beyond Nose to Tail, was published. In-house charcuterie programs at restaurants such as the reopening Pestalozzi Place (St. Louis), the newly meat-centric Earth & Ocean (Seattle), and the new Proof (DC) showed a meaty art form that’s as healthy as ever. Chris Cosentino, a San Francisco chef whose love of offal has led him to create dishes like blood gelato, got a star turn (albeit a losing one) on Iron Chef. Awareness of meat-oriented Community Supported Agriculture harvest co-ops grew: In Berkeley and Boston, among other places, members purchase shares in an animal that’s raised sustainably and slaughtered humanely, a commitment that’s more expensive, substantial, and rewarding than buying a few pounds of meat from a grocery store. And the journal Meatpaper launched, with arty, well-written features tapping into the zeitgeist.