Mole in the Mountains

Published on Thursday, July 26, 2007, by Mick Vann / Edit Post

Mole in the Mountains

A gastronomic adventure in Xalapa, Mexico / Other Activities

VANILLA AND RUINS

If you have more than a few days in the area, take in Papantla, about 155 miles north of Xalapa (three hours by car). It’s the ancestral birthplace of vanilla; that is, it’s where the Olmecs and Totonacs “discovered” the process of fermenting vanilla orchid seeds, and it’s the indigenous birthplace of the vine, and the only area on Earth where the blossoms are naturally pollinated.

You can also watch the famous Los Voladores (flying dancers), a 1,500-year-old Totonac Indian rite in which dancers in brightly colored costumes scale a 150-foot pole, tie ropes around their waists, and plunge backward, spinning around the pole until they gently meet the ground.

If you go, be sure to check out the eerily beautiful Totonac ruins at nearby El Tajin.

BEACH

If you’re traveling from Xalapa to Papantla (see above), it’s nice to spend the night (and a couple of blissful days) on the nearby Costa Esmeralda (Emerald Coast). More than 28 miles of white-sand beach with little fishing towns scattered along it, running north from Veracruz, with coconut palms, palapa bars (open-sided and thatched structures), and countless fish, shrimp, and oyster shacks. You’ll find mostly locals on vacation here, hammocks, cold beer, shallow waters and small waves that make it good for swimming (not surfing), and a laid-back vibe. The best beach is between the towns of Tecolutla and Nautla. About seven miles west of Nautla on Highway 129 is a small, formerly French colonial enclave called San Rafael that’s famous for its fresh French cheeses.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

The Xalapa area offers Class 3 to 5 rapids for whitewater rafting and kayaking, as well as opportunities for canyoneering, rappelling, rock climbing, spelunking, orienteering, windsurfing, horseback riding, and mountain biking. It’s also a fisherman’s paradise (freshwater fly fishing and lake fishing, surf fishing, and offshore fishing). For more information, visit Eco-Tourism, Adventure, & Spanish Study in Mexico in the State of Veracruz or Tour by Mexico.

Photograph of ruins by Magnus von Koellerand; photograph of Los Voladores by Robert Valencia

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POST A COMMENT |13 Comments

COMMENT

  • Just found a cool site with some great pictures of Xico for anybody interested...
    http://www.anthonysloan.com/Xico.html

  • Your article briefly epitomizes the essence of Xalapa. I am a traveller that currently lives in Xalapa. An article was posted by Boris Fishman in the New York Times regarding attractions and food scene of Xalapa. The article was posted last October 18th and you might read it in the following link: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/11/18/travel/tmagazine/14talk-xalapa-t.html
    You might want to check...+READ

    Your article briefly epitomizes the essence of Xalapa. I am a traveller that currently lives in Xalapa. An article was posted by Boris Fishman in the New York Times regarding attractions and food scene of Xalapa. The article was posted last October 18th and you might read it in the following link: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/11/18/travel/tmagazine/14talk-xalapa-t.html
    You might want to check on a small restaurant that specializes on world cuisine which is also mentioned in this article. The place is called Kukiaio and food might be of a single lonely style you might not find even in larger cities, a preview of their menu is on their website: www.kukiaio.com
    These types of restaurants are being located in small walking alleys similar to Plaka in Athens.-COLLAPSE

  • Ok so i have a wonderful place for Tacos Arabe. It is called El Beduino, which means traveler in arabic. It is located on callejon diamante. It is a small family owned restaurants that has been there for about 11 years. It serves Jocoque which is a yougurt dish served with spices and olive oil. It can be served seco or vaso. you can have a drink or a dip with pan arabe. This place is such a great...+READ

    Ok so i have a wonderful place for Tacos Arabe. It is called El Beduino, which means traveler in arabic. It is located on callejon diamante. It is a small family owned restaurants that has been there for about 11 years. It serves Jocoque which is a yougurt dish served with spices and olive oil. It can be served seco or vaso. you can have a drink or a dip with pan arabe. This place is such a great little find in the middle of the busseling alley of merchants and restaurants. I met the owner who is this tiny itty bitty woman named marcela. The food is great but not much to select from. I personally love the Odalisca, which is the meat and manchego cheese melted on pita break served with limon and salsa.....it is a great place for lunch. I recommend the falafel, it is served with white and reb beet salad topped with tajini. This is the best dish of the restaurant in my opinion....-COLLAPSE

  • Great report on my list of places to visit soon...

  • Anonimo
    Thanks for the information -- I'll have to be more careful about those periods in the future. Glad you are enjoying my blog.

  • librehombre; the link to your blog didn't work when clicked, but it turns out that the "dot" at the end of the URL was the culprit.
    I got http://freeend.blogspot.com working now, and I'm looking forward to reading it with pleasure.

  • Mick, I hope you will continue adding content to the Xalapa pages. I am a retiree living in Xalapa and this week I published my blog http://freeend.blogspot.com, which is now syndicated by Feedburner. I wrote an entry about Chow that features your article Mole in the Mountains. I am pleased that you used my panoramic photo and if you send me your email I have a great web site to share with you...+READ

    Mick, I hope you will continue adding content to the Xalapa pages. I am a retiree living in Xalapa and this week I published my blog http://freeend.blogspot.com, which is now syndicated by Feedburner. I wrote an entry about Chow that features your article Mole in the Mountains. I am pleased that you used my panoramic photo and if you send me your email I have a great web site to share with you that provides free top qualify photos and graphics.
    Richard Collins
    Xalapa-COLLAPSE

  • Xico is home to one of the tastiest moles around. I just LOVE their sweet "Mole de Xico".

  • kenito799:
    Good call, but the municipal fish market has been forceably moved to newer (less convenient) digs, now at the edge of the historico district, very near the Pemex petrol tank farm. All of those amazing seafood vendors that used to be up on the 2nd and 3rd floors of the old seafood market, or at least a lot of them, moved to El Mercado de la Concordia, which is spanking clean, and...+READ

    kenito799:
    Good call, but the municipal fish market has been forceably moved to newer (less convenient) digs, now at the edge of the historico district, very near the Pemex petrol tank farm. All of those amazing seafood vendors that used to be up on the 2nd and 3rd floors of the old seafood market, or at least a lot of them, moved to El Mercado de la Concordia, which is spanking clean, and across from the Post Office and the train station, near the Port. New spot, same great stuff! chowmick-COLLAPSE

  • I can't believe I've overlooked this place for so many years, opting instead for the mountains of Michoacan. Now Jalapa is at the top of my list for places to visit in Mexico. Thanks for the lengthy, informative piece. My mouth is watering already!
    Jalapeños, look out, sambamaster is headed your way!

    How do you say yum-boy en español???

  • Another Veracruz City option:

    Calle Landero y Coss is close to the fish market in the centro historico (near the zocalo) and has wonderful tiny seafood restaurants (more like small open kitchens with a few tables). I had mojarra enchipotlada (I saw someone run to the market to pick up my fish) served with freshly made tortillas (everywhere I went in Veracruz they make their own tortillas)....+READ

    Another Veracruz City option:

    Calle Landero y Coss is close to the fish market in the centro historico (near the zocalo) and has wonderful tiny seafood restaurants (more like small open kitchens with a few tables). I had mojarra enchipotlada (I saw someone run to the market to pick up my fish) served with freshly made tortillas (everywhere I went in Veracruz they make their own tortillas). They also serve cocteles, Mexican-style ceviche made with shrimp or oysters.-COLLAPSE

  • What a God-send. Finally a writer who doesn't just go to the typical American resorts. Great details and wonderfully descriptive writing.

  • Thanks for an excellent story. Although we were in Xalapa years ago, we were much less aware of its culinary potential. This makes me want to visit, but this time, in our own car.