The Other Napa

Published on Wednesday, July 18, 2007, by Ella Lawrence / Edit Post

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If you want to give your stomach and liver a bit of a rest, try soaking in some of the areas natural hot springs, taking a bike ride to see the gorgeous scenery up close, looking at art, or visiting the farmers’ markets.

Golden Haven Hot Springs

Golden Haven Hot Springs

HOT SPRINGS

Golden Haven Hot Springs
1713 Lake Street, Calistoga
707-942-8000
Couples’ spa treatments without the inflated prices. In a private room, you get a detoxifying mud bath, followed by a soak in the mineral-water Jacuzzi, then a cozy blanket wrap. Lodging is also available (more motel-style than quaint B&B, though), and if you book online there are all kinds of discount specials. At press time, weekend couples’ mud baths were on special for $59 per person.

ART

di Rosa Preserve
5200 Carneros Highway 121, Napa
707-226-5991
Art gallery meets nature preserve on 217 acres in Carneros. More than 2,000 works by over 900 Northern California artists—including Robert Arneson, Nathan Oliveira, and Robert Bechtle—are shown in three big warehouse-type galleries and a giant old stone winery house. Rolling meadows, a 35-acre lake, and ancient olive groves are home to outdoor sculpture. Four tours daily Tuesday through Friday, and two tours on Saturday (Wednesday admission is free and tours are discounted). Make a reservation a few days ahead of time.

CYCLING

Word is, Lance Armstrong nearly bought a house here three years ago—and it’s easy to see why. There is great cycling in the Napa Valley. However: Bike riding, wine tasting, and driving can be a deadly combination. There’s a lot of traffic on some of these narrow country roads. Remember to ride single file as far to the right as you can, and to wear your helmet. Ride early in the morning to get the best weather and avoid the bulk of the wine-tasting crowds.

One beautiful route with views of Mount St. Helena and the vineyards starts in the town of Calistoga and goes north on Highway 128 to Knights Valley. After that, turn left on Franz Valley Road and continue for a few miles until Franz Valley School Road branches off to the left. This road goes up two steep, short climbs and drops back into Calistoga via Petrified Forest Road. It’s an 18.5-mile loop with a lot of rolling hills, so give yourself a couple of hours.

Napa Valley Bike Tours

Napa Valley Bike Tours

To rent a bike and get some of the best cycling advice in the valley, try:

Calistoga BikeShop
1318 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga
707-942-9687

For guided one-day or multiday tours, try one of these reputable outfits:

One-day:
Getaway Adventures
Napa Valley Bike Tours

Multiday:
Backroads

FARMERS’ MARKETS

Get some of the nation’s finest produce straight from the field for your picnic.

Calistoga Farmers’ Market
Old Gliderport, 1546 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga
707-942-0808
Saturdays, June through September, 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Napa Chefs’ Market
First Street, Napa Town Center, Napa
707-257-0322
Fridays, May 27 through August 31, 5 to 8:30 p.m.

Napa Downtown Farmers Market
South parking lot of Copia
500 First Street, Napa
707-252-7142
Tuesdays, May through October, 7:30 a.m. to noon
Saturdays, May through October, 8 a.m. to noon

St. Helena Farmers Market
Crane Park, St. Helena
707-486-2662
Fridays, May through October, 7:30 a.m. to noon

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POST A COMMENT |18 Comments

COMMENT

  • Redd was an extremely bad dining experience. While on vacation, my new fiance and I stayed at the Vintage Inn in Yountville. We had a 5:45 pm reservation on 8/19 at Redd and requested an outside table. Debbie, the hostess told us they were all reserved so we ended up eating our dinner looking out at the outdoor space which remained at least 50% empty for the rest of the night. The hostess and...+READ

    Redd was an extremely bad dining experience. While on vacation, my new fiance and I stayed at the Vintage Inn in Yountville. We had a 5:45 pm reservation on 8/19 at Redd and requested an outside table. Debbie, the hostess told us they were all reserved so we ended up eating our dinner looking out at the outdoor space which remained at least 50% empty for the rest of the night. The hostess and manager were completely unapologetic and very snotty about it. Besides that, the dining room where we ate was full of flies the entire time and the chicken dish was so tough that my fiance had to send it back. We live in NYC and I thought I had seen the worst, but the staff at Redd was the most pretentious I have ever experienced. I strongly recommend against this restaurant. It was not worth the time or money with several other fantastic restaurants within a few minutes walk.-COLLAPSE

  • konditor awesome review, felt it was very honest and non chalant

  • I've lived in Napa Valley for 20+ years. My daughter sent me this article and I got a kick out of reading it. I agreed with a LOT...others not so much. The Wine Train is a tradition. I rode & had the lunch once~a wonderful meal and enjoyed every minute. When my girls were little they had the Santa train rides...very cute. Woodhouse Chocolates in St Helena will convert anyone who thinks chocolate...+READ

    I've lived in Napa Valley for 20+ years. My daughter sent me this article and I got a kick out of reading it. I agreed with a LOT...others not so much. The Wine Train is a tradition. I rode & had the lunch once~a wonderful meal and enjoyed every minute. When my girls were little they had the Santa train rides...very cute. Woodhouse Chocolates in St Helena will convert anyone who thinks chocolate is "OK"~ (me)...it's a jewelry shop for chocolates! Back Room Wines in Napa~ tell Dan what you're having for dinner and you can walk out with a wonderful bottle for under $20, plus fun tastings regularly. And I laughed out loud at the part about Panchas...If you give a sh** about a fancy place (your lungs) or good food, they don't want you in there. If you're dying for a cold PBR in a plastic cup...ahhhhhhhhh!-COLLAPSE

  • As a 2 year resident of the valley I must say I agree with Count Mourvedre. I too went there for the CIA program but I ended up moving there and was incredibly bored after a few months. It is as he says "expensive farmland and outside of eating and drinking, there's not much to do". It's a wonderful place to visit but not to live.

    There are some affordable lodging options. Try the Railway Inn...+READ

    As a 2 year resident of the valley I must say I agree with Count Mourvedre. I too went there for the CIA program but I ended up moving there and was incredibly bored after a few months. It is as he says "expensive farmland and outside of eating and drinking, there's not much to do". It's a wonderful place to visit but not to live.

    There are some affordable lodging options. Try the Railway Inn in Yountville right across the street from Bouchon Bistro and walking distance to Redd and The French Laundry.

    For a more casual dining experience try sitting at the bar at Redd or Bouchon. The food is Michelin star quality but without the pretentious waiters.

    If you like coldcuts on standard bread Guigni's is your place -- otherwise avoid.-COLLAPSE

  • Head to Guigni's on Main St. in St. Helena for cheap eats. They make the best sandwiches in town (complete with a dose of Guigni Juice, their house vinaigrette).

    If the bar at Martini House is three deep, try Press down the street. The proprietor is Leslie Rudd who also has a hand in 209 gin. Excellent cocktails and a cozy outdoor fireplace.

  • Thank you for your hard work and insight. Will be coming in 2008 to celebrate with a bestfriend her 40th birthday. Will try (in vain) to get a res at the FL but will no doubt enjoy your other recommendations. Can't wait!

  • Several years ago, I spent 45 days over the course of a year pursuing a certification in wine at the CIA in St. Helena. All of those were spent at a small, quaint '50's style motel called the El Bonita. It's right on Highway 29 just south of town and considering the prices in the Napa Valley, a real bargain.

    A 30 year veteran of the restaurant wars, I eschewed restaurants for the most part and...+READ

    Several years ago, I spent 45 days over the course of a year pursuing a certification in wine at the CIA in St. Helena. All of those were spent at a small, quaint '50's style motel called the El Bonita. It's right on Highway 29 just south of town and considering the prices in the Napa Valley, a real bargain.

    A 30 year veteran of the restaurant wars, I eschewed restaurants for the most part and did take-out instead. Tre Vigne Pizzeria in "downtown" St. Helena has great, imaginative, reasonably priced food and excellent service, The menu changes with the seasons and many were the nights I would get a risotto, pizza and/or a salad and return to my room to enjoy it. Another great place I'm sure many have heard about is Taylor's Refresher. It looks like a old drive-in (and is), but they serve fantastic sandwiches, salads, fries, and shakes that I would put up against those served anywhere and for a lot less money.

    When I did do the restaurant thing, I would go to the CIA's Wine Spectator restaurant on their Greystone campus. Exquisite food, exemplary service in a classic Napa Valley setting.

    Having said that, Napa is a great place to visit, but not for more than a few days. Once you've done a few winery tours they all start to look alike (wine is made pretty much the same way) except for the architecture. Some of them ARE pretty amazing, but think about all that money that's spent on trying to lure you to their tasting rooms. They need to recoup it somehow, so what do you think they do? Jack up the price of their product, of course. Even when the distributors take their cut, you'll pay a lot more for wine AT the winery than you will when you get back home in most cases (pun intended). That fact always haunts me when I see the prices of the Napa Cabs in the wine store.

    All in all, I enjoyed my Napa experience, but remember it's just expensive farmland and outside of eating and drinking, there's not much to do. No nightlife to speak of and don't EVEN risk driving if you've been drinking. Smart visitors and professionals spit when tasting. If you get a DUI, it's going to cost you big time.

    The French Laundry. It's not at all worth it. Like French Champagne. Good, but I'd rather have a case of great Spanish cava than one bottle of DP.

    William F. (Rick) Burbank
    aka Count Mourvedre

    President
    CountonWine.com

    Advanced Certified Wine Professional, Culinary Institute of America
    Certified Specialist of Wine, Society of Wine Educators
    Degreed in Culinary Arts, CIA
    Email CountM@CountonWine.com
    Phone 913.909.7218
    www.CountonWine.com

    Making ordinary experiences.....extraordinary

    Count on it!-COLLAPSE

  • As a three year resident of Bordeaux, this article makes the Califonia native in me want to come home just to go to Napa! Love the pic of Doctor Wilkenson's as it was my first experience with Napa when my mother brought me there for my 16th b-day. Their mud can't be beat by the way. Even if I can eat fois gras everyday, I miss burritos! Agreed, see Ratatouille, its a riot and a decent...+READ

    As a three year resident of Bordeaux, this article makes the Califonia native in me want to come home just to go to Napa! Love the pic of Doctor Wilkenson's as it was my first experience with Napa when my mother brought me there for my 16th b-day. Their mud can't be beat by the way. Even if I can eat fois gras everyday, I miss burritos! Agreed, see Ratatouille, its a riot and a decent representation of the French kitchen.-COLLAPSE

  • I love zazu!! It is absolutely worth trying earlier in the evening too- everything is great and the chefs/owners are the nicest people.

  • On FL, I must strongly agree with emmo42: Not overrated in the slightest. Best meal of my life. We actually moped around for weeks afterward at the idea that we would have to eat in ordinary great restaurants in SF. But it wasn't just a meal: it is food theater. I don't go to ballet and opera, but this is my idea of high art. Brilliant conceptions, amazing executions, portions and pacings a...+READ

    On FL, I must strongly agree with emmo42: Not overrated in the slightest. Best meal of my life. We actually moped around for weeks afterward at the idea that we would have to eat in ordinary great restaurants in SF. But it wasn't just a meal: it is food theater. I don't go to ballet and opera, but this is my idea of high art. Brilliant conceptions, amazing executions, portions and pacings a point, worth every penny. Two diners can sample 16-20 incredible interpretive dishes, of obvious inside amusement to the chef: 3/4 of the menu items are in quotes, as if smirking at Escoffier. The surprising thing perhaps is the utter professionalism of a place that doesn't have to have pretensions. Waiters and sommeliers who make you feel utterly comfortable at what they know is your most rare, self-conscious, initimidating, and frighteningly pricey experience. (Oh, and if you haven't seen Ratatouille, DO! The climax is pure Keller, and pure fun.)-COLLAPSE

  • Try Folio Winemakers' Studio, a new small winery where mutlitple families make their own wines. Carneros - off the beaten path.

  • Can't wait to go back to Napa to try some of these out. The Silverado Brewing Company sounds fun.

  • Your article is absolutely fantastic.
    My husband and I took it on our trip to the Napa Valley, and had a perfect time visiting as many of the wineries, restaurants, and shops on your list as we could.
    The Quixote was our favorite. It is a MUST see. We loved the Sunshine Market where we had fun shopping for the best ever picnic fare. Great article!

  • The Napa Valley draws streach limos,snooty people,wine snobs and coek dorks for the most part.never go on a week end as you will spend most of your time sitting in traffic.if you want a wonderful Wine experience then go to the amador county wine country.never crowded and very nice people at the many beautiful wineries.

  • I have to agree with ijhhot. My meal at the French Laundry was the most amazing food experience of my life. Is it expensive? Yes. Is the reservation hard to get? Yes. But the food is spectacular and the experience is unparalleled.

    You may want to check back at what "overrated" means before putting The French Laundry in that category... My friends and I don't make a lot of money, but after...+READ

    I have to agree with ijhhot. My meal at the French Laundry was the most amazing food experience of my life. Is it expensive? Yes. Is the reservation hard to get? Yes. But the food is spectacular and the experience is unparalleled.

    You may want to check back at what "overrated" means before putting The French Laundry in that category... My friends and I don't make a lot of money, but after spending $300/person at the French Laundry we still felt like it was worth every penny.-COLLAPSE

  • I'm curious: Did you ever get inside Castello di Amoroso, or were you just annoyed that they wouldn't let you in without a reservation? I've heard from industry insiders (including one who represents the Antinori family and has seen their castle in Tuscany) that it's actually quite incredible inside, as over-the-top as the concept is. Anyone been there who wants to comment?

    posted by:...+READ

    I'm curious: Did you ever get inside Castello di Amoroso, or were you just annoyed that they wouldn't let you in without a reservation? I've heard from industry insiders (including one who represents the Antinori family and has seen their castle in Tuscany) that it's actually quite incredible inside, as over-the-top as the concept is. Anyone been there who wants to comment?

    posted by: www.winebroad.typepad.com-COLLAPSE

  • Whats auténtico about a burrito? Not that the burritos at La Luna are anything but fantástico.. but burritos are a California invention (some even say an SF one). Are you saying burritos in Napa are as authentic as the ones in the Mission?

  • very nice artcal; but why put down places like the French laundry that have set a really good benchmark for all of who like and want to have good food.