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Driving down clogged Highway 29 through California’s Napa Valley, it’s impossible not to notice how each winery tries to be bigger, better, and more expensively European than the next. Fake Tudor mansions neighbor Tuscan-ish “villas,” which sit next to concrete “chateaus.” Since the 1980s, Napa has become a competition of ostentation. Ingredients in restaurant dishes are outnumbered only by the guests frantic for a reservation; wineries hawk their wares for the price of a small car; and everyone seems to think that the bad oil painting/metal sculpture/puffy paint sweater for sale is redeemed by the fact that its subject is a grapevine.
Sure, Napa can be a corny alcoholic playground, but it’s also one of the most geographically beautiful areas of the country. There’s great food, wine, and even art. Napa is an expensive place to visit, there’s no getting around it. But it’s entirely possible to pick your battles.
Here’s our guide to the other Napa: restaurants that aren’t overpriced or overly touristy, wineries where it’s possible to have an intimate tasting experience, bars where waiters go to drink, taquerias where Mexican vineyard workers eat lunch, and gorgeous picnic spots.
Getting Around
Napa refers to both the City of Napa and the greater Napa Valley. That includes (from south to north, respectively) Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, and Calistoga. Connected by Highway 29 on the west and the Silverado Trail on the east, the points on this list are spread over the whole valley. There’s not much public transportation, so renting a car (and designating a friend to drive) is the way to go. When traveling north-south, take the less trafficked Silverado Trail, which is covered by a bright sneeze of yellow mustard flowers during the sunny summer months, instead of following the very-well-beaten path of Highway 29.
When to Go
The high season for visiting Napa is spring and summer, and it’s easy to understand why: Temperatures in the 90s and above make for excellent picnicking and pink shoulders. If you’re going then, try to avoid the weekend, when hordes of tourists descend, causing traffic jams and out-of-control tasting-room lines. The crush, when grapes come off the vine and go into the barrel, happens in September and October. During this time, Napa buzzes with the long days of work it takes to complete this monumental task, and some of the wineries will let you see the process. Winter is a quiet, almost-tourist-free environment, filled with friendly locals who are ready to give the curious visitor a personal and attentive time.
Redd was an extremely bad dining experience. While on vacation, my new fiance and I stayed at the Vintage Inn in Yountville. We had a 5:45 pm reservation on 8/19 at Redd and requested an outside table. Debbie, the hostess told us they were all reserved so we ended up eating our dinner looking out at the outdoor space which remained at least 50% empty for the rest of the night. The hostess and...+READ
Redd was an extremely bad dining experience. While on vacation, my new fiance and I stayed at the Vintage Inn in Yountville. We had a 5:45 pm reservation on 8/19 at Redd and requested an outside table. Debbie, the hostess told us they were all reserved so we ended up eating our dinner looking out at the outdoor space which remained at least 50% empty for the rest of the night. The hostess and manager were completely unapologetic and very snotty about it. Besides that, the dining room where we ate was full of flies the entire time and the chicken dish was so tough that my fiance had to send it back. We live in NYC and I thought I had seen the worst, but the staff at Redd was the most pretentious I have ever experienced. I strongly recommend against this restaurant. It was not worth the time or money with several other fantastic restaurants within a few minutes walk.-COLLAPSE
konditor awesome review, felt it was very honest and non chalant
I've lived in Napa Valley for 20+ years. My daughter sent me this article and I got a kick out of reading it. I agreed with a LOT...others not so much. The Wine Train is a tradition. I rode & had the lunch once~a wonderful meal and enjoyed every minute. When my girls were little they had the Santa train rides...very cute. Woodhouse Chocolates in St Helena will convert anyone who thinks chocolate...+READ
I've lived in Napa Valley for 20+ years. My daughter sent me this article and I got a kick out of reading it. I agreed with a LOT...others not so much. The Wine Train is a tradition. I rode & had the lunch once~a wonderful meal and enjoyed every minute. When my girls were little they had the Santa train rides...very cute. Woodhouse Chocolates in St Helena will convert anyone who thinks chocolate is "OK"~ (me)...it's a jewelry shop for chocolates! Back Room Wines in Napa~ tell Dan what you're having for dinner and you can walk out with a wonderful bottle for under $20, plus fun tastings regularly. And I laughed out loud at the part about Panchas...If you give a sh** about a fancy place (your lungs) or good food, they don't want you in there. If you're dying for a cold PBR in a plastic cup...ahhhhhhhhh!-COLLAPSE
As a 2 year resident of the valley I must say I agree with Count Mourvedre. I too went there for the CIA program but I ended up moving there and was incredibly bored after a few months. It is as he says "expensive farmland and outside of eating and drinking, there's not much to do". It's a wonderful place to visit but not to live.
There are some affordable lodging options. Try the Railway Inn...+READ
As a 2 year resident of the valley I must say I agree with Count Mourvedre. I too went there for the CIA program but I ended up moving there and was incredibly bored after a few months. It is as he says "expensive farmland and outside of eating and drinking, there's not much to do". It's a wonderful place to visit but not to live.
There are some affordable lodging options. Try the Railway Inn in Yountville right across the street from Bouchon Bistro and walking distance to Redd and The French Laundry.
For a more casual dining experience try sitting at the bar at Redd or Bouchon. The food is Michelin star quality but without the pretentious waiters.
If you like coldcuts on standard bread Guigni's is your place -- otherwise avoid.-COLLAPSE
Head to Guigni's on Main St. in St. Helena for cheap eats. They make the best sandwiches in town (complete with a dose of Guigni Juice, their house vinaigrette).
If the bar at Martini House is three deep, try Press down the street. The proprietor is Leslie Rudd who also has a hand in 209 gin. Excellent cocktails and a cozy outdoor fireplace.
Thank you for your hard work and insight. Will be coming in 2008 to celebrate with a bestfriend her 40th birthday. Will try (in vain) to get a res at the FL but will no doubt enjoy your other recommendations. Can't wait!
Several years ago, I spent 45 days over the course of a year pursuing a certification in wine at the CIA in St. Helena. All of those were spent at a small, quaint '50's style motel called the El Bonita. It's right on Highway 29 just south of town and considering the prices in the Napa Valley, a real bargain.
A 30 year veteran of the restaurant wars, I eschewed restaurants for the most part and...+READ
Several years ago, I spent 45 days over the course of a year pursuing a certification in wine at the CIA in St. Helena. All of those were spent at a small, quaint '50's style motel called the El Bonita. It's right on Highway 29 just south of town and considering the prices in the Napa Valley, a real bargain.
A 30 year veteran of the restaurant wars, I eschewed restaurants for the most part and did take-out instead. Tre Vigne Pizzeria in "downtown" St. Helena has great, imaginative, reasonably priced food and excellent service, The menu changes with the seasons and many were the nights I would get a risotto, pizza and/or a salad and return to my room to enjoy it. Another great place I'm sure many have heard about is Taylor's Refresher. It looks like a old drive-in (and is), but they serve fantastic sandwiches, salads, fries, and shakes that I would put up against those served anywhere and for a lot less money.
When I did do the restaurant thing, I would go to the CIA's Wine Spectator restaurant on their Greystone campus. Exquisite food, exemplary service in a classic Napa Valley setting.
Having said that, Napa is a great place to visit, but not for more than a few days. Once you've done a few winery tours they all start to look alike (wine is made pretty much the same way) except for the architecture. Some of them ARE pretty amazing, but think about all that money that's spent on trying to lure you to their tasting rooms. They need to recoup it somehow, so what do you think they do? Jack up the price of their product, of course. Even when the distributors take their cut, you'll pay a lot more for wine AT the winery than you will when you get back home in most cases (pun intended). That fact always haunts me when I see the prices of the Napa Cabs in the wine store.
All in all, I enjoyed my Napa experience, but remember it's just expensive farmland and outside of eating and drinking, there's not much to do. No nightlife to speak of and don't EVEN risk driving if you've been drinking. Smart visitors and professionals spit when tasting. If you get a DUI, it's going to cost you big time.
The French Laundry. It's not at all worth it. Like French Champagne. Good, but I'd rather have a case of great Spanish cava than one bottle of DP.
William F. (Rick) Burbank
aka Count Mourvedre
President
CountonWine.com
Advanced Certified Wine Professional, Culinary Institute of America
Certified Specialist of Wine, Society of Wine Educators
Degreed in Culinary Arts, CIA
Email CountM@CountonWine.com
Phone 913.909.7218
www.CountonWine.com
Making ordinary experiences.....extraordinary
Count on it!-COLLAPSE
As a three year resident of Bordeaux, this article makes the Califonia native in me want to come home just to go to Napa! Love the pic of Doctor Wilkenson's as it was my first experience with Napa when my mother brought me there for my 16th b-day. Their mud can't be beat by the way. Even if I can eat fois gras everyday, I miss burritos! Agreed, see Ratatouille, its a riot and a decent...+READ
As a three year resident of Bordeaux, this article makes the Califonia native in me want to come home just to go to Napa! Love the pic of Doctor Wilkenson's as it was my first experience with Napa when my mother brought me there for my 16th b-day. Their mud can't be beat by the way. Even if I can eat fois gras everyday, I miss burritos! Agreed, see Ratatouille, its a riot and a decent representation of the French kitchen.-COLLAPSE
I love zazu!! It is absolutely worth trying earlier in the evening too- everything is great and the chefs/owners are the nicest people.
On FL, I must strongly agree with emmo42: Not overrated in the slightest. Best meal of my life. We actually moped around for weeks afterward at the idea that we would have to eat in ordinary great restaurants in SF. But it wasn't just a meal: it is food theater. I don't go to ballet and opera, but this is my idea of high art. Brilliant conceptions, amazing executions, portions and pacings a...+READ
On FL, I must strongly agree with emmo42: Not overrated in the slightest. Best meal of my life. We actually moped around for weeks afterward at the idea that we would have to eat in ordinary great restaurants in SF. But it wasn't just a meal: it is food theater. I don't go to ballet and opera, but this is my idea of high art. Brilliant conceptions, amazing executions, portions and pacings a point, worth every penny. Two diners can sample 16-20 incredible interpretive dishes, of obvious inside amusement to the chef: 3/4 of the menu items are in quotes, as if smirking at Escoffier. The surprising thing perhaps is the utter professionalism of a place that doesn't have to have pretensions. Waiters and sommeliers who make you feel utterly comfortable at what they know is your most rare, self-conscious, initimidating, and frighteningly pricey experience. (Oh, and if you haven't seen Ratatouille, DO! The climax is pure Keller, and pure fun.)-COLLAPSE
Try Folio Winemakers' Studio, a new small winery where mutlitple families make their own wines. Carneros - off the beaten path.
Can't wait to go back to Napa to try some of these out. The Silverado Brewing Company sounds fun.
Your article is absolutely fantastic.
My husband and I took it on our trip to the Napa Valley, and had a perfect time visiting as many of the wineries, restaurants, and shops on your list as we could.
The Quixote was our favorite. It is a MUST see. We loved the Sunshine Market where we had fun shopping for the best ever picnic fare. Great article!
The Napa Valley draws streach limos,snooty people,wine snobs and coek dorks for the most part.never go on a week end as you will spend most of your time sitting in traffic.if you want a wonderful Wine experience then go to the amador county wine country.never crowded and very nice people at the many beautiful wineries.
I have to agree with ijhhot. My meal at the French Laundry was the most amazing food experience of my life. Is it expensive? Yes. Is the reservation hard to get? Yes. But the food is spectacular and the experience is unparalleled.
You may want to check back at what "overrated" means before putting The French Laundry in that category... My friends and I don't make a lot of money, but after...+READ
I have to agree with ijhhot. My meal at the French Laundry was the most amazing food experience of my life. Is it expensive? Yes. Is the reservation hard to get? Yes. But the food is spectacular and the experience is unparalleled.
You may want to check back at what "overrated" means before putting The French Laundry in that category... My friends and I don't make a lot of money, but after spending $300/person at the French Laundry we still felt like it was worth every penny.-COLLAPSE
I'm curious: Did you ever get inside Castello di Amoroso, or were you just annoyed that they wouldn't let you in without a reservation? I've heard from industry insiders (including one who represents the Antinori family and has seen their castle in Tuscany) that it's actually quite incredible inside, as over-the-top as the concept is. Anyone been there who wants to comment?
posted by:...+READ
I'm curious: Did you ever get inside Castello di Amoroso, or were you just annoyed that they wouldn't let you in without a reservation? I've heard from industry insiders (including one who represents the Antinori family and has seen their castle in Tuscany) that it's actually quite incredible inside, as over-the-top as the concept is. Anyone been there who wants to comment?
posted by: www.winebroad.typepad.com-COLLAPSE
Whats auténtico about a burrito? Not that the burritos at La Luna are anything but fantástico.. but burritos are a California invention (some even say an SF one). Are you saying burritos in Napa are as authentic as the ones in the Mission?
very nice artcal; but why put down places like the French laundry that have set a really good benchmark for all of who like and want to have good food.