Tail, Tripe, and Trotters

BIM, hot on the trail of offal, landed his quarry at Commerce. A ragu of "odd things"—oxtail, trotter, and tripe, served with orecchiette—was rich and intense; the succulent, meltingly tender tripe was the standout. Foie gras, in generous chunks, "burst into liquid on the tongue"; it came with sweetbreads cooked to similar irresistible texture. A degustation of lamb offal rounded out the variety-meat feast: heart seared tataki style on shiso leaf; liver with flavored mustard; and an exquisite taste of kidney, two tiny slices over potato-ramp purée. Overall, BIM writes, he "hit the organ meat jackpot," and he'll be going back for more.

Commerce [West Village]
50 Commerce Street (between Barrow and Bedford streets), Manhattan
212-524-2301

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