Dessert: The Final Frontier

New York magazine is up to its usual mischief: tempting already harried New York gastronomes and tantalizing the rest of us. This time, it previews dessert-centric lounges that put the sweet course first.

It’s reasonably easy to understand Kyotofu, which serves an ice cream made from soy milk and tofu. And while P*ong is more challenging (its offerings include a fifteen-layer Armagnac cake with pickled apricot) it still seems basically comprehensible.

But the enigmatic yet-to-be-named dessert bar from Sam Mason, pastry chef at trendy Manhattan restaurant wd-50 strains the old gray matter. It will offer terrines that combine foie gras and peanut butter, pork belly ladled with miso butterscotch, and dehydrated rum-and-Cokes.

Perhaps it could be named: Whaa?

Or El Bulli 2, Electric Boogaloo.

Or maybe just: Holy Crap, We’ve Gotten So Completely Tired of Normal Food That Now We’ve Started Throwing $60-a-Pound Ingredients into the Cuisinart Pretty Much At Random!

Other suggestions?