Dessert: The Final Frontier

Published on Tuesday, September 5, 2006, by James Norton / Edit Post

New York magazine is up to its usual mischief: tempting already harried New York gastronomes and tantalizing the rest of us. This time, it previews dessert-centric lounges that put the sweet course first.

It’s reasonably easy to understand Kyotofu, which serves an ice cream made from soy milk and tofu. And while P*ong is more challenging (its offerings include a fifteen-layer Armagnac cake with pickled apricot) it still seems basically comprehensible.

But the enigmatic yet-to-be-named dessert bar from Sam Mason, pastry chef at trendy Manhattan restaurant wd-50 strains the old gray matter. It will offer terrines that combine foie gras and peanut butter, pork belly ladled with miso butterscotch, and dehydrated rum-and-Cokes.

Perhaps it could be named: Whaa?

Or El Bulli 2, Electric Boogaloo.

Or maybe just: Holy Crap, We’ve Gotten So Completely Tired of Normal Food That Now We’ve Started Throwing $60-a-Pound Ingredients into the Cuisinart Pretty Much At Random!

Other suggestions?

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POST A COMMENT |4 Comments

COMMENT

  • Pork belly ladled with miso butterscotch sounds so f*cking delicious! Don't knock it until you've tried it.

  • one of the best desserts i ever had was by sam mason - a pineapple and manchego cheesecake at WD50. Since (because it is quite delicious) I make my own caramelized bacon from time to time, I don't think the direction Sam is going in, is as bizarre as some unadventurous minds might think it is.

    You can't knock it til you try it.

  • you crack me the fuck up.

  • I haven't eaten anything I didn't like at WD-50, and the heralded arrival of Sam Mason (never visited his former place in Chicago) means I will at least try this, and may even enjoy it. Hopefully he's not including foie gras in a dessert just because he can since liberation from Chicago's draconian food laws.