More Culinary Mash-Ups

Mission Chinese Food, the latest venture from Anthony Myint, "continues the Mission Street Food style of a short menu, applied to traditional Chinese regional dishes and mash-ups," says david kaplan. The newly opened eatery, inside another restaurant, Lung Shan, was one of the first stops on Lessley Anderson and Roxanne Webber's CHOW tour.

Take note of the vegan chinito, a Chinese doughnut stuffed with vegetables and wrapped in rice noodle, Lessley says. Originally created for the now-defunct Mission Street Food, the Chinese-style burrito is "full of textural excitement (crunch from vegetables, then a layer of puffy, airy doughnut, cocooned in silky noodle)." Those veggies include avocado, shiitake mushrooms, and bean sprouts in a tangy soy-based sauce. Salt cod–fried rice is also delicious, with tiny bits of cod, sweet Chinese sausage, egg, and plenty of cilantro and scallions. Strangely, it's spiked with slivers of barely cooked ginger, other hounds note. Be sure to get a side of pickled vegetables, "chile oil–coated briny slices of cucumber, daikon, and roasted peanuts" that Lessley says were her favorite of all.

david kaplan was not as keen on MCF in its opening days, finding good value but clean-to-dull flavors in the baby choy sum and ma po tofu (!!). Mongolian beef cheek has good beefy flavor but "lacked any textural integrity and was almost as slippery and formless as the chow fun noodles it came with."

Peking duck chinito seems like a good concept, with rich duck, hoisin, and cucumber inside the rice-noodle-wrapped doughnut. "I think it would have been great if all the ingredients were still hot, but even eaten at the restaurant the dish was room temperature," says kairo.

Mission Chinese Food [Mission]
2234 Mission Street, San Francisco
415-863-2800

Discuss: Chinese Burrito = Chinito
Mission Chinese Food report