An American wine bar and bistro, the new Bin 8945 may actually fill the void of a French bistro with deliciously straight-ahead food. Steak with frites ($29) is peppery and sweet, the fries cooked in duck fat for fantastic flavor. Duck leg confit ($27) is succulent and tender, arriving on a bed of flageolets, cavalo nero, and pancetta. Steamed mussels in coconut curry broth with homemade Italian sausage sounds like fusion gone overboard, but it actually works really well. And it’s easy to overlook the salt cod brandade, but it’s good stuff.
The star of the show, though, is the wine, and at the moment there’s a far bigger selection of vino than vittles (though the food side is scheduled to do some catch-up). To give you an idea: more than 60 wines by the glass. You might catch manager and wine director David Haskell bussing tables, decanting wine or greeting people–try to chat him up about wine.
Service is polished and professional, even opening week, and still friendly.