The Omnivore’s Fallout

Published on Thursday, November 8, 2007, by Tea / Edit Post

Pollanism, the doctrines Michael Pollan set forth in his influential book The Omnivore’s Dilemma, is making inroads in foodie circles, especially foodie circles in Northern California, ground zero for that particular brand of ethics and epicure. For those living in San Francisco, Pollanism is generally regarded as a good thing—what’s bad about people being concerned with the impact of what they put in their mouths?

But the restaurant industry—even restaurants in SF—may not take so kindly to rampant Pollanism. I had to laugh at an entry on the Line Cook blog.

I’ve noticed a sharp increase in what I call the omnivore effect…people who read Omnivore’s Dilemma and simply said, freak the fuck out. Example: Waitress A comes to the window on Saturday night and says: ‘I have a guest that’s asking if the lamb is local, if it’s from California, if we buy it from a farm, and if we do buy it from a farm, what the farm’s name is.’ I’m surprised they didn’t just ask what the lamb’s name was.

I’m only laughing because it’s true. Oh so true.

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  • I think that it's the restaurant's responsibility to know exactly where their food is coming from and hopefully be proud of that source. What the consumer demands will shape what is offered in the long run. I think it's a great way for the restaurant to get that information (oh shit people care about farmed v. wild salmon, etc.) and if you would rather have something else on the menu than the...+READ

    I think that it's the restaurant's responsibility to know exactly where their food is coming from and hopefully be proud of that source. What the consumer demands will shape what is offered in the long run. I think it's a great way for the restaurant to get that information (oh shit people care about farmed v. wild salmon, etc.) and if you would rather have something else on the menu than the farmed.....that's your choice. I worked with a chef that always wanted to know what kind of customers were asking these questions, the who cares test.
    Freaking out may actually be what this country needs, since ridiculous obesity rates and diabetes haven't really changed anything. In any restaurant that I work in I hope that all my fellow cooks have a passion for food.......is a customer who is willing to pay more for a better ingredient and passionate about food not what we want?-COLLAPSE

  • While I pick and choose my vendors/restaurants/etc carefully based on some of the previously described principles, I tend to stop at forcing the waitress to fill out a questionnaire.

    To play devil's advocate, though: shouldn't a vendor be answerable to their customers? Are consumers supposed to just shut up and consume? Seems to me that's what got us into this hormone/antibiotic-infested,...+READ

    While I pick and choose my vendors/restaurants/etc carefully based on some of the previously described principles, I tend to stop at forcing the waitress to fill out a questionnaire.

    To play devil's advocate, though: shouldn't a vendor be answerable to their customers? Are consumers supposed to just shut up and consume? Seems to me that's what got us into this hormone/antibiotic-infested, megaconglomerate, Enron-thieving mess in the first place. Businesses should be able to account for their actions, and should be able to justify their operational choices. Transparency is not a bad thing.

    I think people have a right to know what they're putting in their bodies, regardless of whether their eating in or out. That said, there is always a line. Propriety should still count for something.-COLLAPSE

  • We just choose restaurants more carefully, but not to the point of extremism. Eating locally has to be obtainable and sustainable in and of itself. Adding this "PITA (pain in the ass) layer, doesn't help. We eat a lot more at home, not out of paranoia, the fresh food is just so damn much better especially if you know how to cook it. Plus, you aren't paying out the ass for something you can make...+READ

    We just choose restaurants more carefully, but not to the point of extremism. Eating locally has to be obtainable and sustainable in and of itself. Adding this "PITA (pain in the ass) layer, doesn't help. We eat a lot more at home, not out of paranoia, the fresh food is just so damn much better especially if you know how to cook it. Plus, you aren't paying out the ass for something you can make yourself (from the same produce/meat, same farmer, as the 4-star guys).-COLLAPSE

  • I just reread what i wrote yesterday, and I realize I was very heavy-handed in my scorn, which was wrong of me.

    In my defense, I've been around a lot of pantywaistovores and professional allergy victims in recent months, and in trying not to be rude and smack them I sort of snapped. The last three posters have a much more balanced collective view. I wish I'd put it more that way.

  • I try to patronize the few restaurants that I know try to source locally, but if it's not explained on the menu "e.g. Niman Ranch pork," I would never send the server back to ask. I chose to eat there and that's what I would do.

  • I loved Pollan's book and try my best to shop and eat in way that follows his principles (stay out of supermarkets, farmers markets for as much of the year possible, pasture raised meats, etc. etc.)

    But I have decided that I will not go overboard. There is just too much great stuff in Toronto that I would miss out on if I become a Pantywaistovore :-) Give up my favourite veal sandwich? Give up...+READ

    I loved Pollan's book and try my best to shop and eat in way that follows his principles (stay out of supermarkets, farmers markets for as much of the year possible, pasture raised meats, etc. etc.)

    But I have decided that I will not go overboard. There is just too much great stuff in Toronto that I would miss out on if I become a Pantywaistovore :-) Give up my favourite veal sandwich? Give up Breakfast on a Bun at St. Lawrence Market on Saturday mornings? And all of the great restaurants that don't know from Michael Pollan? I don't think so. And I have to sneak in a Big Mac every now and then.-COLLAPSE

  • The interesting thing is, is that it's not just in the food world that this is happening. Organic cottons in clothing, beauty products made with fair trade ingredients.

    It's called a bandwagon. People jump on them left and right because they feel a need to follow what they think is right (or what someone is telling them to think is right).

    I think if people want to be that concerned about...+READ

    The interesting thing is, is that it's not just in the food world that this is happening. Organic cottons in clothing, beauty products made with fair trade ingredients.

    It's called a bandwagon. People jump on them left and right because they feel a need to follow what they think is right (or what someone is telling them to think is right).

    I think if people want to be that concerned about where their food is coming from they need to patronize restaurants like Chez Panisse (although haven't they been cutting corners in eating locally lately?) or cook at home where they can guarantee where their food comes from. Or go live among the Amish or something.-COLLAPSE

  • They're called Customers and they vote in this popularity contest called "Who gets to stay in Business?" with these things called dollar bills.

  • But the point I forgot to make above is that when you get to the Militant Diner point you stop being an omnivore. Can somebody come up with a new name for these people?

    Particuvore
    Teenyvore
    Prissyvore
    Pantywaistovore

    Please help me out here.

  • Christ on a bicycle, this whole blog has me laughing so hard I can barely type.

    Hey- if you really need to know where the ______ came from, go out to the source and buy it or catch it yourself, and prepare it yourself, free of the ever-so-many chemicals and cooking methods to which you are allergic or sensitive, that way you can be certain there aren't cats or rodents lurking in the kitchen.
    ...+READ

    Christ on a bicycle, this whole blog has me laughing so hard I can barely type.

    Hey- if you really need to know where the ______ came from, go out to the source and buy it or catch it yourself, and prepare it yourself, free of the ever-so-many chemicals and cooking methods to which you are allergic or sensitive, that way you can be certain there aren't cats or rodents lurking in the kitchen.

    Anybody with a passing acquaintance to a menu these days know that if an ingredient is from something other than a common source, it will listed in the adjectives preceding or immediately following the name of the ingredient in the menu description.-COLLAPSE

  • I know Pollanism, and have been known to ask questions about a menu item's provenance. I never order farmed salmon in a restaurant, and try to go to places that I know, where they have more local produce. That said, I've been to McDonald's once this week, and am going out to dinner tonight and tomorrow night, to places I've never been,which probably aren't "Pollanist." (I live in LA) But, I try...+READ

    I know Pollanism, and have been known to ask questions about a menu item's provenance. I never order farmed salmon in a restaurant, and try to go to places that I know, where they have more local produce. That said, I've been to McDonald's once this week, and am going out to dinner tonight and tomorrow night, to places I've never been,which probably aren't "Pollanist." (I live in LA) But, I try to order the most local, and least processed things on most menus when possible. Must not be technically someone who has freaked the fuck out.-COLLAPSE