Trading places

In Los Angeles, gastronomes are gorging on glorious pig fat, while on New York’s Lower East Side, they’re dining on dainty amuse-bouches. Has some kind of coastal culinary transplant taken place?

Writing in The New York Times, Melissa Clark reports that the amuse-bouche has trickled down from the rarified world of haute dining to find its way into casual restaurants and dinner parties in New York City.

Meanwhile, back in health- and figure-conscious Los Angeles–that bastion of the small plate movement–all manner of cured pork delicacies from prosciutto to jamon and even all-fat lardo are the rage. “Who could have predicted it? Southern California, where even great restaurants need to have a big green salad on the menu, has suddenly gone crazy for pork fat,” writes Russ Parsons in his mouthwatering Los Angeles Times article on L.A.’s new craze for salumi.