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Legendary raconteur and bon vivant Calvin Trillin has a story in the most recent New Yorker that examines the bewilderingly diverse world of Singapore street food. The story is unavailable online, a marketing decision designed to sell the print edition of the magazine … and while this kind of old-fashioned, shortsighted print-media hucksterism is detestable, the quality of Trillin’s writing still merits celebration (and the $4.99 cover price).
Trillin dives into what may be Singapore’s outstanding culinary innovation: the hawker center. Rather than having dodgy street-food stands scattered throughout the city, Singapore gathers them together into food-safety-controlled clumps of up to 100 or so vendors, some only selling one particular specialty.
Under the wing of hawker expert K. F. Seetoh, Trillin embarks on an epic street-food tour, aided by a list of target dishes.
I’d come up with a preliminary list of dishes that I considered, well, must try. There were nine: chwee kueh (the rice cakes with radish), grilled stingray, roti prata, curry puffs (which Seetoh describes as, more or less, a Chinese improvement on an Indian samosa), chili crab (and its cousin, pepper crab), laksa, fish-head curry, carrot cake (fried white radish and flour cake, with garlic and eggs and scallions) and charkway teow. Seetoh looked disappointed.
‘Wrong list?’ I asked.
Not wrong. Insufficient.
The final list of target foods tops out at around 20, but it seems to expand, accordionlike, as Trillin makes his rounds. For this blogger, who just sampled 18 different items at the Minnesota State Fair, it’s an inspiring tale.
Where to stay?
The shopping is great and all but the hotels are exorbitant! Don’t Fret because I found a perfect alternative right smack in the middle of Orchard Road.
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Best Regards
Isa Bella
Thanks very much Kerteman! I only have 6 hours in Singapore, so I will try and cover your recomendations by taxi. Any chance you could email me a copy of the article? If so, my address is: otroelso@gmail.com.
Thanks again!
Hi
I did find theNew Yorker article and have it close at hand. To go to many of the recommended places you need a driver to get from one end of the island to another but that is worthwhile .Good food is everywhere and hawker centers exist in every neighborhood. Here are some of my Trillin recommendations, Old Airport Temporary Food Center is now renovated and just called Old Airport Food Center....+READ
Hi
I did find theNew Yorker article and have it close at hand. To go to many of the recommended places you need a driver to get from one end of the island to another but that is worthwhile .Good food is everywhere and hawker centers exist in every neighborhood. Here are some of my Trillin recommendations, Old Airport Temporary Food Center is now renovated and just called Old Airport Food Center. Great Black Pepper and Chili crab, excellent oyster omlette, and many sate stalls. Follow your nose and check out the stalls that have a line which often means they are the best.
East Coast Lagoon also looked good for seafood and it is on the beach with waterview and easy parking.
Underwhelmed with Newton Circus. Popiah -not that great.
Most important recommendation, get the Mankansutra book and check for hawkers near where you are staying.Good glossary of S'pore foods too.
I enjoyed the huge wet market in little India and the Muslim food hawkers inside.Go early.
Chinatown has several Hawker Centers, Maxwell is the most famous up but others are great too. Try the Ice Katchang desserts !-COLLAPSE
Hi. I am going to Singapore next week and would like to find the recomendations from the article in The New Yorker. Did you manage to find a copy, and would you mind sharing?
Regards
Ole
I am looking for a copy of this article can be photocopy any ideas?