Mostarda Is In

[caption id="attachment_36103" align="alignright" width="290" caption="The mixed-fruit mostarda di Cremona is one of the most well-known versions of the relish."]Mostarda di Cremona is one of the most well-known versions of the relish.[/caption]

Mostarda, an Italian relish of fruit preserved in mustard syrup is passing up aioli as the trendy condiment of the moment. "I think it's popular right now because it can be made with all kinds of seasonal fruit--cherries in the spring, stonefruit in the summer, pears and apples in the winter," says chef Lauren Kiino, a partner at Il Cane Rosso in San Francisco, which often serves a seasonal mostarda on its porchetta sandwich. "It is a really versatile way to dress meat: pork, game, and duck especially."

Also spotted at: Le Cirque in New York city, made with quince and served with suckling pig; Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles, made with pears, and served with crispy duck al mattone and Brussels sprouts; and Momofuku Ssäm Bar, also made with pears and served with pig's head and sauerkraut.

Image source: Flickr member Sifalcia under Creative Commons