NOLA’s Bumpy Ride

Published on Wednesday, August 15, 2007, by James Norton / Edit Post

The Times-Picayune of New Orleans—one of the country’s finest and least-celebrated daily papers—has a terrific story about the state of NOLA’s restaurants.

Weaving together the account of a once-booming post-Katrina restaurant called Alberta and general trends in the New Orleans food business, the story paints a relatively bleak picture. The post-Katrina rush has died down, and once-optimistic new spots are closing down or girding for a fall season that may feature a new rush of customers—or a creeping collapse.

As old giants stagger to their feet, the swift newcomers are struggling to stay solvent, and many are losing the fight.

‘It was only after the more traditional New Orleans restaurants that have been in existence for some time started to open that our business started to slow down,’ [new restaurant owner Alberta] Pate said. ‘I’m not saying that the older ones aren’t struggling. It’s just that it’s the new ones that are closing, and I wonder if there’s a thread.’

While it’s tough to keep a new place open even in non–hurricane devastated cities, you’ve gotta feel bad for the folks who gave Crescent City another shot and lost their shirts.

ALLFood Media
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  • What demons, jamielynn? Just kidding. Yes, I suppose we have our share. Anyway, I live in the French Quarter and have been a resident for nine years. The referenced TP/nola.com article makes perfect sense.

    When we returned after the storm, there were few restaurants open (especially fine dining establishments). Those who got up and running sooner did good business. This was the case with...+READ

    What demons, jamielynn? Just kidding. Yes, I suppose we have our share. Anyway, I live in the French Quarter and have been a resident for nine years. The referenced TP/nola.com article makes perfect sense.

    When we returned after the storm, there were few restaurants open (especially fine dining establishments). Those who got up and running sooner did good business. This was the case with Alberta. Great food (but, c'mon, in New Orleans, if it’s not top-notch the restaurant will quickly close because of the always-stiff competition) and ambience, so among the fewer options it developed a strong following despite its especially pricy fare. But, as more and more restaurants have opened in the past two years since the hurricane (without a comparable increase in population), it puts a heavier burden on each to remain afloat. Thankfully, Alberta has been infused with new capital and it’s hoped they will make a long-term go of it. But, with 850 restaurants now open in the New Orleans Metro area (compared to 809 before Katrina), it becomes increasingly difficult to stand out and find that success. Or sustain it.

    Regarding some other restaurants mentioned in that article: I was sorry to see Jackson go, but the last three restaurants in that location all had similar problems cultivating a customer base. Fire was a great concept in an interesting venue, but they expected to have regular clientele from the Saulet apartment complex that failed to materialize (because the complex was shut down for so long to make major structural repairs). But, the demise of some hasn’t dampened the spirits of others opening in their wake.

    I’m not sure I agree with your premise about “locals supporting locals.” Whether the restaurants are packed or struggling, they are being operated by chefs and owners who live here and are evidently committed to creating a thriving restaurant business here. But, if by “locals” you were inferring the “old school” (e.g. the extended Brennan family's restaurants, Antoine’s, Galatoire’s) or “celebrity” (e.g. Emeril Lagasse, John Besh) restaurateurs here, it probably is more likely they will continue to do well and command a significant piece of the dining pie because of their panache or renown. But, even those would fail in this difficult market if their food and service significantly decline. It may be a scorching August day, but it’s a cold, cruel world…especially in the world of New Orleans restaurants.-COLLAPSE

  • I'm not sure what to think. Just spoke to a friend and restaurant owner in New Orleans yesterday. Established place, he just reopened in April. He proceeded to tell me how busy they were! I mean, it's not surprising that there are struggles. As long as the city itself continues you struggle, with little support, so will the restaurant industry. Your gambling with your future there....so your...+READ

    I'm not sure what to think. Just spoke to a friend and restaurant owner in New Orleans yesterday. Established place, he just reopened in April. He proceeded to tell me how busy they were! I mean, it's not surprising that there are struggles. As long as the city itself continues you struggle, with little support, so will the restaurant industry. Your gambling with your future there....so your money better be well oragnized. Purchasers must be savvy. I'm gonna think outside the box here...but this might be an issue of locals supporting locals. The industry, like elsewhere, is incestious. Maybe the locals are more supportive to their tried and true. Either way...it is a sad time in New Orleans. I hope and pray for great things to happen. Great things have always come from this city, even though it has it's demons as well.

    -J-COLLAPSE