Veggie-Phobic Vegetarians

The original Ten Speed Press edition of Mollie Katzen’s Moosewood Cookbook turned 30 this year, and last month the James Beard Foundation saw fit to usher it into the Cookbook Hall of Fame (we should all be so lucky to get that kind of treatment when we hit 30). The book helped open America’s eyes to the possibility of meatless epicureanism, but as Katzen told Sierra Club Radio in an interesting interview this week (you can skip to Katzen’s segment by fast-forwarding the counter to 11:45), her concept of vegetarian cuisine has evolved radically since she published that early edition.

The main thing, she explains, is that back then she was out to show that a vegetarian diet wasn’t about eating only vegetables, so she actually ended up including much heavier, less veggie-oriented dishes than she would now:

Early on, when I was designing main courses, for example, I would err on the heavy side, because the point I was to trying to prove was that people could be satisfied without meat. ... So it was almost an overcompensation for the lack of meat, because people were sort of suspicious of whether you could get enough if meat wasn’t in the main dish. So it was heavier, and the emphasis was largely on rice or noodles or cheese. Not so much even on vegetables—it was more about avoiding meat than it was about embracing vegetables.

Katzen says that these days, she’s much more likely to eat and serve meals that revolve around “a big pile of vegetables in the center of the plate,” and she worries that a lot of vegetarians don’t actually get enough greens. I know several of those grain-and-cheese-focused vegetarian types, and it definitely seems like their health and their palates suffer for it. One good friend who was totally meatless for 13 years recently started branching out into flexitarian territory because she felt utterly bored with the culinary choices available to her.

Interestingly, Katzen isn’t strictly vegetarian these days, yet now she feels that she’s really getting enough veggies in her diet (she typically includes a protein with her “pile” of greens, and it’s often a meaty one). Is there a connection here? Any vegetarians out there share the sentiment that it’s hard to avoid becoming a starch-and-cheesivore, or do you find it easy to get your five-a-day?

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  • I totally agree with this also because my sister eats a lot of carbs and she and I have both gained weight about 5-10 pounds each as a vegetarian.
    shes also a dessertarian

  • I totally agree with the above
    the only place that really serves vegetables is Angelikas Kitchen in nyc and also the salads at Candle Cafe
    then again anything at candle cafe is so good= you dont realize youre over eating fake meats and carbs

  • I agree.... I think many vegetarian restaurants fail to focus on vegetables. They focus too much on alternative forms of protein, and forget to do creative things with vegetables. How many veg restuarants serve cinnamon-glazed carrots,caramalized brussel sprouts with almonds or spaghetti made of squash? Sadly, I found these items at non-veg restaurants, and not at veg restaurants.

    Compared to...+READ

    I agree.... I think many vegetarian restaurants fail to focus on vegetables. They focus too much on alternative forms of protein, and forget to do creative things with vegetables. How many veg restuarants serve cinnamon-glazed carrots,caramalized brussel sprouts with almonds or spaghetti made of squash? Sadly, I found these items at non-veg restaurants, and not at veg restaurants.

    Compared to meat, vegetables are not that expensive. And I strongly believe that NYC needs more vegetarian restaurants that add get more creative with vegetables, not just steam them and put them next to your piece of seitan on top of a pile of rice with some sauce on it.

    And don't even get me started on the fruit.. it's so disappointing how difficult it is to find a decent selection of fruit at restaurants. Delis and restarurants all give that standard blend of cheap fruits: melon, grapes, cantaloupe, strawberries and if you're lucky pineapple. What about thowing some tangerines, apricots, peaches or plums in there? Mango or papaya? There are so many exotic fruits out there like rambutan, chinese jackfruit, etc and restaurants never serve them. It's really sad.-COLLAPSE

  • I agree.... I think many vegetarian restaurants fail to focus on vegetables. They focus too much on alternative forms of protein, and forget to do creative things with vegetables. How many veg restuarants serve cinnamon-glazed carrots,caramalized brussel sprouts with almonds or spaghetti made of squash? Sadly, I found these items at non-veg restaurants, and not at veg restaurants.

    Compared to...+READ

    I agree.... I think many vegetarian restaurants fail to focus on vegetables. They focus too much on alternative forms of protein, and forget to do creative things with vegetables. How many veg restuarants serve cinnamon-glazed carrots,caramalized brussel sprouts with almonds or spaghetti made of squash? Sadly, I found these items at non-veg restaurants, and not at veg restaurants.

    Compared to meat, vegetables are not that expensive. And I strongly believe that NYC needs more vegetarian restaurants that add get more creative with vegetables, not just steam them and put them next to your piece of seitan on top of a pile of rice with some sauce on it.-COLLAPSE

  • I have this problem in reverse. i want the fruits and veggies and am constantly battling other sources who only want to serve me bread or noodles. From husband to restaurants to extended family, they fall back on macaroni and cheese or fettuccine alfredo, or lasagna if they're wanting upscale. I can't seem to get through to them that a plate of steamed broccoli, sweet potato casserole with...+READ

    I have this problem in reverse. i want the fruits and veggies and am constantly battling other sources who only want to serve me bread or noodles. From husband to restaurants to extended family, they fall back on macaroni and cheese or fettuccine alfredo, or lasagna if they're wanting upscale. I can't seem to get through to them that a plate of steamed broccoli, sweet potato casserole with walnuts, fresh steamed green beans almondine, some Thai cucumber salad, fresh pears slices, and a single whole grain dinner roll sounds just great to me. Then they balk at the price. It is frustrating to want to eat some veggies--even basic, ordinary veggies--and have people want you to live on carbs and cheese instead.-COLLAPSE

  • as a paleo-oriented omnivore who eschews grains for vegetables, i find my vegetarian friends eating way too much starch. whenever invited to their dinner parties, i'm tempted to bring my own vegetables lest i suffer insulin shock from their potatoes, breads, rice and pasta. like their carnivorous counterparts, they succumb to the convenience, inexpensiveness, and caloric satisfaction of starches....+READ

    as a paleo-oriented omnivore who eschews grains for vegetables, i find my vegetarian friends eating way too much starch. whenever invited to their dinner parties, i'm tempted to bring my own vegetables lest i suffer insulin shock from their potatoes, breads, rice and pasta. like their carnivorous counterparts, they succumb to the convenience, inexpensiveness, and caloric satisfaction of starches. and few people truly enjoy vegetables, even among vegetarians. anti-meat does not a veggie lover make.-COLLAPSE