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In an opinion piece for the New York Sun, cultural critic John McWhorter argues that inner-city black people have higher rates of obesity and diabetes than whites because their palates are just trained to favor greasy grub—no matter how much affordable, fresh produce they have at their fingertips. Growing up black in Philadelphia, McWhorter writes, he “learned the joy of fried chicken” and other unhealthy foods like Jimmy Dean “Seriously Hot” breakfast sausage and Lay’s BBQ chips, all of which he says he still craves at least once a week, despite his better judgment and his proximity to markets that offer more nutritious options. This high-fat fare provides a complicated link to his heritage:
If I am at an event where one of the main reception snacks is fried chicken drummies, it is almost certainly a black one. White people saute chard and sprinkle some herb or sauce in. Black people make collard greens with hamhocks.
I prefer the latter to the former, and will spend my life alternating between resisting and parsimoniously indulging that need for grease. My taste in food is cultural.
McWhorter (who, in a previous career as a linguist, happened to be one of my favorite college professors) is a senior fellow at the Manhattan Institute, a conservative think tank; he’s built his “brand” around the idea that the plight of black America is due in part to problems in black culture itself, not just in a white-dominated system. So I’m inclined to take his argument with a grain of salt (so to speak), as a logical extension of his theories on society in general. But in fact he brings up a couple of interesting cases that do indeed challenge the notion that obesity and diabetes rates are directly related to the distance to the nearest fresh-veggie purveyor:
For example, in New York, a Fairway supermarket has been thriving in West Harlem for more than 10 years overflowing with lovely and reasonably priced produce. Plenty of local black folks shop and work in it. It’s a walk away for many, and for others, there is even a shuttle service. Yet obesity is currently still rife in West Harlem, including among teenagers raised on food bought there, in a way that it is not in, say, Greenwich Village.
I have noticed the same thing in another black neighborhood in New York: a C-Town supermarket is smack in the middle, amply stocked with fresh produce at moderate prices. The average weight of people in this neighborhood is distinctly higher than on the Upper East Side, which has a C-Town supermarket as well.
Are these cases just New York-specific outliers, or might McWhorter be on to something larger? I know plenty of rather overweight white, Hispanic, and Asian folks who were raised on junky food, too, so clearly the problem is not only racial; McWhorter is definitely oversimplifying the issue somewhat. But perhaps culturally conditioned tastes aren’t given enough weight (if you will) in discussions of the nation’s obesity problem. Is it because we’re too PC these days to call out certain ethnic cuisines as unhealthy?
There's no such thing as a "white-dominated system." The very insinuation is racist.
Soul food is not necessarily bad for you. It's how you eat it. For instance, if your plate holds mainly greens and beans plus one small piece of chicken fried at home in lard or oil (not partially hydrogenated), a little sprinkling of pig fat isn't going to hurt you. Even better if you add in a green salad and some fresh fruit. Stay away from the starch and the sugar.
Not only does starch and...+READ
Soul food is not necessarily bad for you. It's how you eat it. For instance, if your plate holds mainly greens and beans plus one small piece of chicken fried at home in lard or oil (not partially hydrogenated), a little sprinkling of pig fat isn't going to hurt you. Even better if you add in a green salad and some fresh fruit. Stay away from the starch and the sugar.
Not only does starch and sugar (no fiber) make it easy to gain weight, the latest research shows that it causes heart disease. So we are living in a Wood Allen movie (Sleeper) after all.-COLLAPSE
I would like to add that though poverty & genetics play large roles in obesity, that the lack of exercise plays just as large of a role. Today's children (and adults), no matter their social or economic standing, are more likely to be found indoors playing video games, online or watching television. It also seems that more parents "award" their children with food instead of awarding good behavior...+READ
I would like to add that though poverty & genetics play large roles in obesity, that the lack of exercise plays just as large of a role. Today's children (and adults), no matter their social or economic standing, are more likely to be found indoors playing video games, online or watching television. It also seems that more parents "award" their children with food instead of awarding good behavior and such with praise that will build their self esteem. Whether parents are doing this because they are to busy to actually notice what their children have accomplished or that they just don't want to be bothered, is wrong. I was raised in the South as a (a-HEM) poor white American and loved fried chicken, greens, mashed potatoes and gravy, which I still make from time to time. And btw, homemade tamales are one of my favorite foods. Fresh fruits and vegetables are on my grocery list as often as possible because I am now a (a-HEM) middle classed white American. I also enjoy Moules Mariniere, Tom Kha Kai, and other wonderful dishes when I can make them. My point is this, please don't judge someone by their size, because you don't know the real reason they are overweight, just as you don't know why someone is thin. Because they way a person looks doesn't tell you who they are. Sorry if I rambled on, but this issue struck a cord with me.-COLLAPSE
A point we all seem to be missing is that none of us, black, white, brown or whatever, ate rich fattening (delicious!) foods every day, back in the days of our hardworking, poverty-ridden ancestors. Fried chicken, cream gravy and the like were Sunday or holiday fare. Same thing with Latinos, Hawaiians and (a-HEM) formerly poor white white Americans - give'em some affluence and they'll want to eat...+READ
A point we all seem to be missing is that none of us, black, white, brown or whatever, ate rich fattening (delicious!) foods every day, back in the days of our hardworking, poverty-ridden ancestors. Fried chicken, cream gravy and the like were Sunday or holiday fare. Same thing with Latinos, Hawaiians and (a-HEM) formerly poor white white Americans - give'em some affluence and they'll want to eat tamales, kalua pig or pork chops and gravy every day. That fact, plus the aforementioned one that we just don't WORK anymore, has a lot more to do with everyone's obesity, my own included, than race or cultural background.-COLLAPSE
Just want to add: as for the black/white thing, do remember Elvis, a nominally "white" person (though he had a lot of Amerindian ancestry) who grew up in dire poverty in the deep south.
I think that was simply a problem in phrasing.
Actually, collards are a very good food, even a superfood, and collards with a bit of lard or pork as flavouring would follow the same principles as Chinese food.
Indeed horrific, genocidal ordeals such as the Middle Passage, Nazi Death Camps or the Trail of Tears both weed out those who need a lot of nutrition (skinnies) and make survivors crave...+READ
I think that was simply a problem in phrasing.
Actually, collards are a very good food, even a superfood, and collards with a bit of lard or pork as flavouring would follow the same principles as Chinese food.
Indeed horrific, genocidal ordeals such as the Middle Passage, Nazi Death Camps or the Trail of Tears both weed out those who need a lot of nutrition (skinnies) and make survivors crave calories, but human history and prehistory is full of cataclysms - unfortunately the more recent ones have largely been manmade.
Flavrmeister, I dearly wish those corn-based sweeteners could be banned or at least restricted. They are causing a serious health crisis that sugar per se never caused.-COLLAPSE
fara: I agree with you, although I do believe most Caribbeans and C and S Americans 'of African decent' made it over on the slave ships. Not many of them came over for a vacation...
"Of course the study doesn't account for socioeconomics as mentioned above, but from my understanding of genetics, it seems plausible at the least."
Except that it doesn't seem to be the same problem for Carribbeans or Central and South Americans of African descent. I think it's a symptom of poverty. Eating home-made fried chicken and collard greens every day is better for you than eating...+READ
"Of course the study doesn't account for socioeconomics as mentioned above, but from my understanding of genetics, it seems plausible at the least."
Except that it doesn't seem to be the same problem for Carribbeans or Central and South Americans of African descent. I think it's a symptom of poverty. Eating home-made fried chicken and collard greens every day is better for you than eating heavily processed foods that contain little to no nutrients. A big problem for poor people is fast food. Low income kids in NYC tend not to eat anything at school and then get fast food every day for after school. It's a social thing. Add to that a breakfast sandwich in the morning before school, and it's not hard to get fat. Lots of cuisines are high in fat, and perhaps low in vegetables, it doesnt' mean the people that eat these foods are necessarily overweight (russinan, slavic, german, northern french, english).-COLLAPSE
I read an interesting study that postulated that the slave trade may have played a role in the high levels of obesity and heart disease in African Americans.
Essentially, people within all races are genetically predisposed to retain fat and salt in different quantities. The study suggested that many of the people who died while being transported to America didn't have as good an ability to...+READ
I read an interesting study that postulated that the slave trade may have played a role in the high levels of obesity and heart disease in African Americans.
Essentially, people within all races are genetically predisposed to retain fat and salt in different quantities. The study suggested that many of the people who died while being transported to America didn't have as good an ability to store salt and fat as those who survived. As a result, those who did make it to shore were disproportionately better at storing the bad stuff (or rather, the good stuff in survival terms).
A few centuries later and the emergence of crappy fast food and it's no surprise that black suffer greatly from heart disease, etc.
Of course the study doesn't account for socioeconomics as mentioned above, but from my understanding of genetics, it seems plausible at the least.-COLLAPSE
"Soul" food is basically the same for poor whites as it is for poor blacks. Most of it is based on three common ingredients--lard, sugar and processed flour. And now, we can add corn sweeteners, which are put in just about every processed food available in the United States and is primarily responsible for swelling our kids to livestock proportions. Bleck!
A lot of traditional cuisines were healthy for people who had to toil away on plantations or sweatshops - and alas "slaving away" did not end with emancipation for most African-Americans or Afro-Caribbeans (part of my family is Trinidadian). They are not healthy for people who work in an office, a WalMart, or even a high-tech factory.
If you look back at the pictures of Black people in civil...+READ
A lot of traditional cuisines were healthy for people who had to toil away on plantations or sweatshops - and alas "slaving away" did not end with emancipation for most African-Americans or Afro-Caribbeans (part of my family is Trinidadian). They are not healthy for people who work in an office, a WalMart, or even a high-tech factory.
If you look back at the pictures of Black people in civil rights marches or other daily life events back in the 1960s or before, they were either slim or slightly plump (like Dr King) depending on their build.
A much worse version of the same problem is found up here among Aboriginal peoples (Amerindians and Inuit) who were hunter-gatherers or hunter-gatherer/farmers - their diet was well-adapted to their metabolism and they got a huge amount of exercise, as well as simply having to stay alive and warm in the long, harsh winters.
They have been hit with the double whammy of a change in lifestyle and diet - and unfortunately the foods from "down south" (southern Canada, that is) are the cheapest and unhealthiest ones on the market, full of bad fats, bleached starches and sugars.
In seminars with participants from many countries, it was interesting to observe the hearty meals the West Africans who are the ancestors of African-Americans and Afro-Caribbeans prepared - all-natural ingredients of course but stews made with quite a lot of oil. And very tasty. All those West African people were slim, but I suppose that they get more exercise in their daily lives than North Americans do, although these were by and large educated people.-COLLAPSE
Well, I just read about the Japanese diet change and now 50% of men and 20% of women there are at risk for weight-related health problems. I guess that means the innate human palate for fat and free carbs outweighs tradition!
To me, this seems like an incredibly complex situation comprised of economics, tradition, availability and palate.
First, when it comes to palate, there was just an article in the New York Times of *wealthy* people eating out in NYC with their children, where expensive restaurants offer a children's menu with chicken fingers and fries. Apparently the kids are now demanding the same at home and...+READ
To me, this seems like an incredibly complex situation comprised of economics, tradition, availability and palate.
First, when it comes to palate, there was just an article in the New York Times of *wealthy* people eating out in NYC with their children, where expensive restaurants offer a children's menu with chicken fingers and fries. Apparently the kids are now demanding the same at home and refusing the food the parents eat, which might help the kids develop a taste for a varied diet. Fried, salty, high fat, and sweet foods taste better to the majority of humans--it's not just economic but probably an ancestral desire for high energy per meal, should hard times be coming.
African American ancestry is much like any other group of poor and underprivileged people. While slaves (or like my ancestors, laborers in crummy shtetls in Eastern Europe where lunch could be schmalz on a slice of rye) they were not offered the prime cuts. It would have been mighty rare for a slave family to get a ham, prime rib, or Chateaubriand. Instead, they received the trash or leftover fatty/high bone content meats, including ribs and hocks. To make them palatable, long slow cooking or frying was needed. And their vegetables were usually bitter greens--mustard tops, turnip greens--what was thrown away. Ever eat those greens without fatback?
Since I find myself longing for stuffing made from noodles and schmalz and pulled from the Thanksgiving turkey, I can understand the longing for traditional food. I'm three generations into the middle class. Sure I long for salads and Thai food too, but my grandparents sure didn't. The majority of African-Americans in the middle class only reached it in the 1970-80 period, if then.
High quality fruits and vegetables are expensive. It costs a lot to bring prime local organic produce to market. Just visit the Berkeley Farmers' Market and you'll see. You could feed a family of six for the cost of a pound of cherries.
And many stores closed in the African-American communities because of crime. To people not so vested in "the best food," it takes quite a bit to walk a mile and a half to the best produce and then schlepp it back on the bus.
Time and education and increased income and availability, that's what it takes. McWhorter will probably see his kids crave the high end stuff *almost* as much as the traditional--that is if he keeps them out of those NYC restaurants.
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/30/dining/30kids.html?_r=1&oref=slogin-COLLAPSE
I think anyone who grew up with delicious, but unhealthy food has a hard time fleeing from its irresistible pull. I grew up white in the south-- but white southern food is similar to African-American food. Even though I study food in college, I still hesitate when faced with the choice between chard and fried chicken. The latter sort of food is cheap and good... a lot people black, white, asian,...+READ
I think anyone who grew up with delicious, but unhealthy food has a hard time fleeing from its irresistible pull. I grew up white in the south-- but white southern food is similar to African-American food. Even though I study food in college, I still hesitate when faced with the choice between chard and fried chicken. The latter sort of food is cheap and good... a lot people black, white, asian, Native-American, and about any other ethic group is going to be tempted. When I worked tutoring kids in Chicago, I regularly saw kids pass up fruit for chips and cookies. It's an addiction to sugar and salt that is not easily tempered.
Much like fertility rates, I think obesity rates do correlate with income. Education and the desire to live a better life inhibit people's desire to eat junk in the same way it inhibits the desire to have seven kids.-COLLAPSE
I haven't read the article, but does McWhorter even address the economic issue at all. The fact is, fresh fruits and veggies are usually more expensive than a lot of what goes into "soul food." some people just can't afford to eat healthy, or don't have the time to shop and cook in a healthy way.
that said, it's true that certain cuisines are healthier than others. Also relevant are cultural...+READ
I haven't read the article, but does McWhorter even address the economic issue at all. The fact is, fresh fruits and veggies are usually more expensive than a lot of what goes into "soul food." some people just can't afford to eat healthy, or don't have the time to shop and cook in a healthy way.
that said, it's true that certain cuisines are healthier than others. Also relevant are cultural attitudes towards being overweight. In some cultures, fat men and women are considered very attractive.
I don't have the stats, but i bet if you controlled for social class, education, and income, you'd find that black people aren't that much more obese than their white peers.-COLLAPSE
I live in New Orleans, where obesity is a major problem across racial lines. That said, I've been told that a lot of soul food preparations can be traced back to slavery, when slaves ate foods as high in fat and starch as they could, to sustain them through their incredibly taxing physical labor. Obviously nowadays people do not work in the same ways that they did then, and yet some of the food...+READ
I live in New Orleans, where obesity is a major problem across racial lines. That said, I've been told that a lot of soul food preparations can be traced back to slavery, when slaves ate foods as high in fat and starch as they could, to sustain them through their incredibly taxing physical labor. Obviously nowadays people do not work in the same ways that they did then, and yet some of the food preparations (greens cooked in fatback, etc) have similar fat/starch contents as they had back then. All that fat coupled with a sedentary lifestyle can cause major health problems.-COLLAPSE