Fighting Off Fusion Phobia

Let’s get this over with. Yes, Celadon is Asian fusion. But it’s fusion done right, says AquaW, the veteran of some regrettable meals at Red Pearl Kitchen and Geisha House.

It’s definitely akin to those restaurant-lounge spots in spirit-– the ambience is sleek, sexy, modern Asian, all dark woods, dimmed lights and (of course) Buddha statuettes. There’s a fireplace, too, with a martial arts flick projected onto the brick wall above it, and signature cocktails with names like Chi-Devil and Mighty Joe Yang (touted as an aphrodisiac). The Yuzu Voodoo is interestingly sweet and sour, with Absolut citron, hypnotiq and fresh yuzu juice.

Grilled ahi pizza is a well-layered pile of flavors: salty, meaty slices of tuna on top of pita wedges with garlicky pesto sauce, toasted pine nuts, Parmesan shavings and fragrant herbs like cilantro and dill.

They do roasted scallops—meaty, creamy, and slightly charred—with balsamic-glazed strawberries. The match of sauce and scallop is perfect. On the side: a soft and savory risotto.

Flatiron steak, another of the less Asian-esque dishes, comes with a grilled cheese panino, red pepper romesco sauce and mushroom salad. The sandwich, with sharp cheddar, manages to be comforting and a bit sophisticated at the same time.

The dessert menu operates on the principle that good things come in threes. The simply named “bananas” includes a banana cream tart topped with cocoa powder, caramelized bananas with vanilla bean ice cream and a banana souffle. Apart from the blandish souffle, they’re aromatic and yummy.

The trio of black sesame desserts includes mochi-like dumplings with sesame paste in a syrupy sauce, a burnt sugar crisp studded with black sesame, and a black sesame custard. They’re nice variations on a flavor theme.

Dishes are in the teens, and desserts and cocktails around $10.

Celadon Galerie [Third Street Row]
7910 West 3rd St., Los Angeles
323-658-8028
Map

Board Links: Hey, this fusion stuff can be good!