The decades fall away when you step into Mar's, whose period décor and sultry speakeasy mood create a dark, handsome setting for American cooking with Mediterranean accents and an appealing raw bar. Chowhounds describe an excellent seafood platter of oysters, clams, mussels, shrimp, and crab; satisfying braised short ribs over polenta with roasted Brussels sprouts; and a well-balanced salad of celeriac, beets, and other root vegetables, enriched by poached egg and Gruyère.
Mar's, which opened around a year ago, represents a thorough and thoughtfully conceived remake of a space that previously housed Greek tavernas. One 'hound, queenseats, is delighted to have it in the neighborhood: "I was under the impression that this space was more focused on the craft cocktails and raw bar, but it was great to learn that the cooked menu is equally excellent. Everything was of high caliber."
34-21 34th Avenue (at 35th Street), Astoria, Queens
Photo from Mar's / Facebook