At Má Pêche, a Feast Borne on Carts

There's just no standing still at Má Pêche, which recently dropped its playful, personal Kappo tasting dinners and deployed a fleet of carts that hawk small plates around the dining room. Think dim sum service—or, maybe a more likely inspiration, the upmarket meals on wheels at San Francisco's State Bird Provisions.

"Verdict: delicious food and a lot of fun!" ellenost declares on Chowhound. Highlights of her introduction to the so-called Passed Plates format—which samples greatest hits from this and other outposts of David Chang's Momofuku realm—included habanero fried chicken, black bass crudo with foie gras, chilled lobster in lemongrass butter, roasted rack of lamb, and trout roe over potato pancakes. "Really enjoyed the interaction with the servers and cooks," she adds. "Highly recommend the new format!"

For Má Pêche's current meal for large groups, Chang and Executive Chef Paul Carmichael didn't need to look to the West Coast or even Chinatown. Their blowout chicken and lamb spreads are a nod to the rough-and-ready Middle Eastern halal carts that work the streets within blocks of their restaurant. Chowhound fooder's party went whole hog, putting away a lamb shoulder (confit, smoked, then roasted) and two chickens (poached then deep-fried with spices and herbs)—both flavorful and satisfying, maybe the lamb a bit more than the chicken.

Accompaniments include knockout chickpea and eggplant sides; tangy pickles and chutneys to counter the meaty richness; and fluffy pitas and disappointingly dry curry rice. "While there were so many different tastes and textures going on," fooder writes, "it all somehow came together. ... It was very representative of the type of food served at Momofuku restaurants in how it elevated and enlivened comfort food." The group meals—chicken, lamb, or both—run from $175 to $450 for 4 to 12 diners and must be reserved 48 hours in advance.

Má Pêche [Midtown]
In the Chambers Hotel, 15 W. 56th Street (between Fifth and Sixth avenues), Manhattan
212-757-5878

Photos by Yijia Gu / Sometimes I Crave...