Located in a Necco-pink building in the heart of Silver Lake, Song ("two" in Thai) is the latest venture from Chef Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market in West Hollywood. Food & Wine recently nominated Yenbamroong for People’s Best New Chef for California. He’s been the visionary behind LA's hottest Thai restaurant, praised by the likes of David Chang and René Redzepi. Hottest in the literal sense, too: The 31-year-old chef isn't afraid to bring the heat, especially in nam priks, relishes thick with chiles (even water bugs, if you happen to order the specialty nam prik maengda).
Song's interior is striking and charming, a mix of Thai sensibility and LA hipster runoff. Walls are painted a mix of bright Shasta orange and hyperlink blue. Pink plastic beads dangle innocently in doorways; a revealing Cindy Crawford poster and lenticular Michael Jackson photo turn heads.
Like Night + Market, Song organizes around street food from northern Thailand (including the northeastern Isaan region), bringing the earthy flavors and bright aromatics of food from Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai up front. Most of Song’s menu is the same as Night + Market’s, a blessing for East Siders wary of rush-hour WeHo traffic.
Sour, fermented pork sausage (sai krok) and chile-flecked herb sausage (sai uah) made the cut, as did Yenbamroong's nuoc mam chicken wings, expertly fried and doused with a sweet and mildly spicy glaze. The moo sadoong (grilled pork) was pungent and ferociously spicy, perfumed with lemongrass, basil, and lime. Pad thai was delicious and restrained, avoiding the sickeningly sweet, bright-orange tamarind trope.
Yenbamroong’s new dishes for Song include gaeng gradang, a cold, Jell-O-like curry sans coconut milk, similar to a terrine with floating bits of pork. Eater LA also reports "a steamed beef jerky placed on a bed of kaffir lime leaves." Right now, I’m just counting the days until Song gets its beer and wine license. Those chicken wings are begging for a cold brew.
Song [Silver Lake]
3322 W. Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles
No phone available
Photos by Justin Bolois