Chelsea’s Montmartre Rethinks the French Brasserie

Montmartre restaurant New York

Montmartre launched in February, the latest hit restaurant from the high-flying Gabe Stulman (Joseph Leonard, Perla, et al.). Then, barely a month after takeoff, the Chelsea brasserie changed course. As rewritten, the menu takes a more freewheeling direction that's closer to Chef Tien Ho's sweet spot, as showcased at David Chang's Má Pêche and Momofuku Ssäm Bar. Now French bistro standards with minor modern twists have given way to bolder dishes that borrow flavors and ingredients from Asia, North Africa, and the Middle East.

Chowhound kathryn recommends a couple of the added offerings: boudin chinois, a blood sausage with pickled turnip, radish, and Sichuan vinaigrette; and a wax bean salad with poached egg and something like a Thai peanut dressing. Also new: grilled quail seasoned with Aleppo pepper and sumac, served with couscous, apricot, and spiced yogurt; and a nod to the chef's Vietnamese roots, Pot-au-Pho, a rich, meaty bowl of short rib and oxtail with leeks, basil, and hoisin. Reconstructed dishes include strip steak—served before the makeover with bone marrow and chive cream, and after with ginger-soy vinaigrette and scallion butter. And kathryn's a big fan of one dish that survived the change: raw hamachi with kaffir lime, marinated apple, and chile. "Awesome," she declares.

Montmartre [Chelsea]
158 Eighth Avenue (at W. 18th Street), Manhattan
646-596-8838

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Photo from Montmartre