Early Report: At Costata in SoHo, Michael White Thinks Meat

Costata is Italian for "rib-eye," which tells you much of what you need to know about Chef Michael White's two-week-old steakhouse. It's the signature cut—40 ounces of Black Angus beef, dry-aged at least 40 days, presented tomahawk-style on the bone for sharing (pictured)—and it kills, UES Mayor declares on Chowhound. Steaks and chops can be ordered with compound butters (anchovy, puttanesca, black truffle) or a selection of sauces including salsa verde, porcini sugo, and black pepper pancetta cream.

White, who's earned a reputation as a pasta master at his other restaurants (including Marea and Ai Fiori), offers around eight choices here. Squid-ink casarecci with seafood, cavatelli with braised oxtail and fontina, and rigatoni with prosciutto-mortadella meatballs are all excellent, UES Mayor reports. The menu highlights surf as well as turf: Crudos of rich fatty tuna and sweet red prawns (with lime and olive oil) are "really phenomenal," says kosmose7, who also loves the deeply flavorful bone-in sirloin.

Costata closes a circle for White, bringing him back to the SoHo townhouse that once housed Fiamma, where he first gained notice in New York 11 years ago. His newest place has made a strong impression on kosmose7, who's also checked out some other prominent newcomers around town, including Betony and The Fourth at the new Hyatt Union Square. Costata was the best from start to finish, he says, sealing the deal with a terrific gelato alla meringa (toasted meringue, rhubarb sorbet, strawberry gelato, and a ladyfinger): "Not overly sweet, just perfect!"

Costata [SoHo]
206 Spring Street (near Sixth Avenue), Manhattan
212-334-3320

Discuss: Chef Michael White's Costata - really enjoyed

Photo from Costata