Writing on Chowhound, Spiritchaser says the high point of his enjoyable dinner was an entrée of smoked trout with watercress, pickled mushrooms, and charred onion—"perfect. So moist, so tender, so subtly smoked." A mousse of smoked whitefish, topped with trout roe and served with toast, is a winning appetizer; so is a course of hay-roasted oysters, presented on a bed of smoking hay. The theme plays out at the crowded bar, where nearly 200 American whiskeys are poured and selected cocktails are aged in charred barrels (a technique popularized in recent years at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon); the resulting Manhattan, Spiritchaser reports, was "excellent and incredibly smooth."
Chef Kyle Knall, an Alabama native who has cooked at Gramercy Tavern, combines a mastery of Southern standards with unexpected finesse. His biscuits and gravy are among the best that arturusthorne's Southern wife has found in New York. (Those biscuits turn up at brunch with fried eggs and duck sausage as well as in a sandwich of smoked ham and soft scrambled egg.) Fried chicken comes as a roulade of breast meat with potato and marinated mushrooms, paired with a crisp roasted leg. Grits are fried in little cubes and crowned with thin-sliced country ham and bourbon aioli. For starters, you'll be brought delicious warm cornbread mini-muffins; resist the temptation to accept seconds, NYCPA warns, "or you are going to be too full to eat your meal."
17 W. 26th Street (between Sixth Avenue and Broadway), Manhattan
Photo by Maysville / Facebook