Game's on at the soccer fields of Red Hook, Brooklyn, and that means the return of a favorite Chowhound pastime: grazing on Latin American street food from the vendors who feed the weekend crowds every year from April to October. Bob Martinez says his favorite destination, the Country Boys truck run by Fernando and Yolanda Martinez from Puebla, Mexico, was already in midseason form on opening day, April 27. Their chorizo huarache—a massive, messy dinner-spoiler on a thick bed of fried masa—was as good as ever, delivering slow-burn heat from the sausage. "This is the Everlasting Gob Stopper of sandwiches—it grows as you eat it and you need to buckle down and do some serious work to finish it," Bob adds. "We were up to the task."
Fellow huarache devotee Silverjay doubles down on toppings, ordering chorizo for spice and a second meat for added succulence. But his go-to truck is Piaztlan Authentic Mexican Food, where Eleazar "Chai" Perez slowly stews goat into "achingly tender" barbacoa and serves it in tacos or cemitas. Fans can also sample chow from Guatemala, El Salvador, Colombia, and the Dominican Republic.
Despite fine spring weather, a worrisome cloud hung over the season's opening weekend: The vendors face the dual challenge of dwindling attendance and costly city regulations, and according to Serious Eats, some fear that the long-running outdoor feast may be in jeopardy. But as fruit seller Everardo Vaquero said, "If you support us, we shall continue."
Red Hook Food Vendors [Red Hook]
At the Red Hook Recreation Area soccer fields, near Bay and Clinton streets, Brooklyn
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Photo from Red Hook Food Vendors / Facebook