Wendy’s Portobella Umami-Bomb Melt

Wendy's Bacon Portobella Melt promises to dump a truckload of umami on the American palate. Is that a good thing?

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James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. Follow CHOW on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.