It's been lionized as the perfect lobster. Now the prized, plump Fourchu lobster from Nova Scotia is taking Manhattan, though not for much longer (its short season ends later this month). small h, "big fan of lobsters (and hype!)," steamed two 1-1/4-pounders from Aqua Best in Chinatown, which is bringing in some 10,000 pounds of Fourchus a week. What she got for her $38—roughly twice what Aqua Best charges for Maine lobsters—was ocean-y flavor and dense meat in rock-hard shells that yielded only after several whacks with a hammer.
Fourchus are on the menu at a number of mostly high-end restaurants around town—reportedly including the International Culinary Center's L’Ecole, ABC Kitchen, Blue Hill, Corton, Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, North End Grill, Oceana, and The Spotted Pig. So you don't have to cook them at home, small h observes, "especially if you, like me, cannot find the stupid cracker-thing even though you definitely just saw it the other day."
Aqua Best [Chinatown]
276 Grand Street (between Forsyth and Eldridge streets), Manhattan
Photograph of Fourchu lobsters by small h