Astoria lost a terrific Greek restaurant when Philoxenia closed last year. A worthy replacement is Thymari, which opened in January in the same space on 34th Avenue. "Great food, big flavors, and generous portions," says CitySpoonful after a recent dinner.
Highlights of her meatless meal included pantzaria, marinated beets with red onion and capers, served with spicy and intensely garlicky chickpea skordalia. The Thymari salad paired tangy tomato and feta with anise-scented, barely sweet ouzo-soaked barley rusks. Pikilía was a trio of dips: smoky roasted eggplant, thick puréed feta, and tzatziki—they more than made up for dry, bland pita. Served with sweet berry compote, pan-fried, sesame-crusted feta saganaki offered relief from all the strong, garlicky flavors.
Service was attentive and welcoming, but the place was unsettlingly empty. "This is the best Greek food in southern Astoria," CitySpoonful says—way better than her previous favorite, Zenon Taverna, and perhaps on a par with hound hangout Agnanti. "Hope business will pick up and keep these guys going."
32-07 34th Avenue (between 32nd and 33rd streets), Astoria, Queens