A Welcome French Newcomer on 14th Street

Jeanne & Gaston arrived quietly in December, bringing the hearty food of Burgundy to a sleepy block of West 14th Street. Chowhounds are glad it's here. "I think it's a real gem," says Rmis32. "The quality of the food and its beautiful presentation exhibit great talent in the kitchen."

Among the highlights of Rmis32's dinners was beef short rib braised in a rich Pinot Noir reduction with mushrooms and onions—à la boeuf bourguignon. He's also enjoyed tuna tartare and a perfectly grilled salmon fillet. rrems recommends the veal sweetbread tarte, rabbit fricassee, and poached trout (with mushrooms and Chablis sauce), among other dishes. Chef-owner Claude Godard isn't cooking Burgundian by the book: His crab Napoleon appetizer includes a layer of avocado and accents of lemongrass and cilantro. Good bets among the desserts are molten chocolate cake and a flambé cherry crêpe.

Jeanne & Gaston represents a downtown foray for Godard, who also owns Madison Bistro in Murray Hill. (Part of the third generation of a Burgundy restaurant family, he named his new place after his grandparents.) It hasn't been an instant hit, despite an attractive $40 three-course dinner deal. "My only complaint," rrems says, "is the slightly annoying music. If it were busier we probably would not have noticed it so much, and it definitely deserves to be busier."

Jeanne & Gaston [West Village]
212 W. 14th Street (between Seventh and Eighth avenues), Manhattan
212-675-3773

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