A Molecular Gastronomy Dessert Game-Changer

"In your classic NYC vs SF vs LA pissing contest, I nominate Chef Kahn and Red Medicine as our champion," says Porthos, who recently paid a second visit to this fine-dining establishment.

Foie gras in foam and chicory "soil" is "one of the most beautiful dishes I've ever seen," Porthos says. "On level with Manresa's and L'Arpège's garden presentations." When it comes to entrées, Porthos loves the porridge with uni, which has become a standard order.

Also utterly fantastic: Santa Barbara spot prawns served in a crock pot of hot stones over cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, lemongrass, and other aromatics. The bodies are peeled and cooked on hot stones, the heads deep-fried for your pleasure. They're served with butter lettuce, Vietnamese mint, and pickled vegetables. "Meant for about 4, but devoured by 2. Impressed or perhaps fearful of our gluttony, we were comped 2 desserts," Porthos says.

And those desserts! "These are easily the 2 best bites of 2012 for me, and I'm not even a dessert fan," Porthos says. The first: coconut bavarois, coffee gelato, and peanut croquant. "This was a complete dessert with each component highlighting and elevating the next," says Porthos.

But the height of all heights: greengage plum with frozen cream, sorrel, elderflower, and wild chervil. It's "a game changer the way the porridge here is a game changer," says Porthos. "A dish destined to be copied." The base is made from a hard kaffir lime meringue and a soft lemon verbena meringue, and the colors are beautiful: "stark white with the green of the chervil and powdered sorrel contrasting." Porthos admits that this description does not do the dish justice. "I can find no words to describe how genius and delicious this dish is. It is as good as anything any of the great chefs across the world have put out. I cannot remember a better dessert put out by Thomas Keller, Pierre Gagnaire, or Alain Passard, and Chef Kahn deserves every superlative and more for this. It's what the desserts at Bazaar try to be and fail in terms of melding molecular gastronomy with dessert."

Red Medicine [Beverly Hills]
8400 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills
323-651-5500

Discuss: Red Medicine. Wow.