San Francisco Bay Area Digest rss

What Chowhounds are discussing on the San Francisco Bay Area board.
Restaurants, bars, food stores, and more that are new, old, weird, or totally under the radar.

Traditional Moroccan at San Francisco’s Tajine

Editor's note: Tajine closed unexpectedly after this post was published.

pauliface is a self-proclaimed pushover for Moroccan food, and in a report on Tajine he ranks the Polk Street restaurant against its San Francisco competitors.

At Tajine, he tried the eponymous dish, which had a richer sauce than he's used to and featured a surprise guest star: french fries sprinkled on top, though pauliface would have preferred couscous or rice as a complementary carbohydrate. Preserved lemon offered a nice break from the richness, though a few meatier pieces would have been even more welcome.

Of the mixed grill, only the chicken skewer was great; the lamb and the kefta weren't as tasty. The grill plate also included a "transcendent" saffron rice with herbs, and two excellent salads—a zaalouk (eggplant salad) and shalada (tomato salad with parsley and lemon juice).

pauliface thinks that a truly excellent Moroccan spot has yet to put a flag in the ground in San Francisco, but Tajine is "low-key, traditional, delicious, inexpensive," and worth the visit for its namesake dish.

Tajine [Polk Gulch]
1653 Polk Street, San Francisco
415-550-1718

Discuss: Tadich and Tajine (with a non-food note on Swan Oyster Depot)

Venezuelan Arepas at a Sunnyvale Strip Mall

mdg sifted through the usual suspects to uncover surprising dishes at a strip mall in Sunnyvale.

Mi Rancho is the restaurant he discovered, and though they have tacos and burritos, it was the selection of Colombian and Venezuelan food that proved too intriguing to pass up. The menu features cachapas (corn pancakes wrapped around cheese), buñuelos (cheese balls), and a sumptuous bandeja paisa with steak, sausage, pork rinds, and avocado.

mdg tried Venezuelan arepas and Colombian empanadas. Arepas come with a choice of fillings, and can include cheese, pulled pork, chorizo, or scrambled egg. The OP went for chicken, and these arepas con pollo were the standout of the meal.

The empanadas were also tasty, he says, but something seemed off about the filling-to-dough ratio. The salsa bar is good too, mdg says, and while the restaurant is a bit out of the way, the quality of the food merits attention from hounds.

Mi Rancho [South Bay]
1250 S. Mary Avenue, Sunnyvale
408-530-8858

Discuss: Mi Rancho - Arepas and empanadas in Sunnyvale

New Tastes of “Nova Portuguesa” in Sonoma

The delights of New Portuguese cuisine charmed tlegray, who filed a report on dinner at LaSalette in Sonoma Plaza. tlegray sampled the menu via the Tasca Tasting Plates: a selection of dishes like linguiça, pig's feet terrine, and salt-cured beans.

How delicious was it? "So delicious," says tlegray of the house-made linguiça and luxuriously fatty serrano ham. She had never tasted sardines, but spun the wheel of fortune and landed on a big win with the sardinhas assadas: whole Monterey Bay fish "flash cooked" in a wood-burning oven. Hints of wood and olive oil warmed the mild flavor of the fish, which tlegray would order again in a heartbeat.

The other star of the evening was a main dish, the "wonderful combination" of house-made herb fettuccine with scallops, roasted bell peppers, chorizo, and fennel pollen. Cold sweets finished the meal: mango sorbet, vintage port ice cream, and a chocolate-chile ice cream that called to mind Mexican hot chocolate.

Service-wise, it's of note that the waiter allowed the table to order each course individually so that diners could weigh their hunger and preferences before committing to the next portion of their feast.

LaSalette [Sonoma County]
452 First Street East, Suite H, Sonoma
707-938-1927

Discuss: La Salette in Sonoma

Overheard on the San Francisco Bay Area Board

"Hmmm, it has been eons since I've reported on Kam Lok and its yee mein (lobster and otherwise). I was back there for lunch last week, and once again the non-greasy yee mein dish with spongy, chewy, flavor absorbing noodles was the star. This time with shreds of dried scallop, enoki mushroom and yellow leeks. Delectable." – Melanie Wong on Kam Lok in Chinatown

"The sandwiches currently use the same bread that the old Saigon Express used, but the new owners prepare the fillings differently. The bread's never been great, so hopefully they'll switch to what's used at BC Deli. The vegetarian sandwich is an improvement. In addition to slices of fried tofu, there's also a more unevenly shaped product that's pretty good (gluten or soy?). The combination sandwich seemed to have higher quality meat, but it was missing something in the fat and salt department. I need to try it again, but I think they're now just using a normal amount of mayo, and the overuse of mayo helped compensate for the lousiness of the bread in the past."hyperbowler on Saigon Express in Berkeley

"My favorite were at the late Patisserie Philippe, but his successor Bonjour Patisserie seems to be using his recipe and they are pretty good. They are very caramelized." – chocolatetartguy on Bonjour Patisserie's palmiers (sometimes called elephant ear cookies)

Exceptional Loaves from Firebrand Artisan Breads

Oakland's Firebrand Artisan Breads, a brick-oven bakery with limited distribution in the Bay Area, sells a sourdough loaf that impressed TopoTail. Made of unbleached wheat, whole wheat, and rye flours, the sourdough is "one of the best loaves of bread I have ever tasted," TopoTail says. "Really crispy crust, moist and chewy inside, packed with flavor."

Lucky Ruth Lafler happened upon Firebrand bread more than two years ago at a restaurant. She bemoans the very limited distribution so far, but agrees that the bread is delicious.

Firebrand's website notes that its breads are sold at Bi-Rite Market and Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco. (Bi-Rite even filmed an interview with the Firebrand baker describing his technique, which you can check out here.)

You can also find Firebrand baked goods at Sightglass Coffee and Fifth Floor in San Francisco, as well as at Oakland's Disco Volante.

Bi-Rite Market [Mission District]
3639 18th Street, San Francisco
415-241-9760

Rainbow Grocery [Mission District]
1745 Folsom Street, San Francisco
415-863-0620

Sightglass Coffee [SOMA]
270 Seventh Street, San Francisco
415-861-1313

Fifth Floor [SOMA]
12 Fourth Street, San Francisco
415-348-1555

Disco Volante [East Bay]
347 14th Street, Oakland
510-663-0271

Discuss: Firebrand Brick Oven Bakery

Curative Chicken Soups

When some of us come down with a case of the sniffles, a steaming bowl of chicken noodle soup can come to the rescue. AVinSF wasn't feeling well recently, and several hounds prescribed a number of San Francisco–based soup dispensaries that serve curative bowls of warm, chicken-flavored goodness.

mlutsky says St. Francis Fountain's chicken soup is the ultimate stress reliever, while pamf notes that Soup Freaks is in a new location across the street from its previous one on Mission Street in SOMA, so fans of its chicken soup are in luck.

Many hounds love the fresh, light pho ga—Vietnamese chicken noodle soup—at Turtle Tower, which now has three locations in the city. bigwheel042 prefers the Geary Street location, which is cleaner and cozier than the other two.

And in those "moments of real desperation," goldangl95 recommends soup from Whole Foods, which does the job, even if it requires a lot of doctoring to perk up the bland flavors.

St. Francis Fountain [Mission District]
2801 24th Street, San Francisco
415-826-4200

Soup Freaks [SOMA]
667 Mission Street, San Francisco
415-433-7687

Turtle Tower [Outer Richmond]
5716 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco
415-221-9890

Discuss: Chicken noodle soup
Chicken Soup Season - FiDi and/or Berkeley/Oakland

Differing Opinions on Petaluma Fish and Chips Shop

Two hounds recently weighed in on Fourth & Sea, a fish-and-chip shop in Petaluma, and they walked away with different opinions.

The fish, chips, tartar sauce, and coleslaw at Fourth & Sea impressed rworange, but she particularly liked the onion rings, prepared in a "light, tempura-like beer batter." The same lovely batter graces the big pieces of fish served with the restaurant's signature dish. The shakes were also great, she says, because they were "not overly thick and [tasted] of dairy pureness."

However, with two visits to Fourth & Sea under his belt, Civil Bear steps up as a detractor. "Found the fish & chips greasy and overpriced," he says.

Fourth & Sea [Sonoma County]
101 Fourth Street, Petaluma
707-762-6424

Discuss: Fourth and Sea Fish & Chips - destination worthy onion rings and milkshakes [Petaluma]

Overheard on the San Francisco Bay Area Board

"We ordered three dishes: Pepes Ikan, Ayam Penyet (fried chicken with spicy shrimp paste), and Soto Betawi (mild beef curry stew). As already noted, the fish was excellent. The chicken was very good as well. The chicken was fried nicely and would have been tasty on its own. The shrimp paste gave it an unusual (and spicy) kick. The stew was similar to a mild, and thin, Thai or Malaysian curry." – clamdining on Bayleaf Restaurant in Sunnyvale

"I picked up a 6 lb. point cut corned beef (spicy) at Roberts Corned Meats this morning. $4 per pound. The crush will start in earnest next week but today there was only one other customer. The counter [person] went in the back and brought out the hunk of meat on a hook to show me, twirling it around. I liked the looks of the fatty layers, nodded my acceptance, and then he sealed it with some brine for me. He said it would easily hold for two to three weeks in the refrigerator." – Melanie Wong on Roberts Corned Meats in SF's SOMA District

"The mapo tofu with crab is deliciously full of absolutely silken tofu and crab, which is very messy to eat, spreading chili-laden, oily sauce everywhere. Since I get it for the tofu, mostly, though the crab is good, if I want to come out with my clothing unstained, I get mapo tofu and ask them to add ground pork. Adds a lot of flavor." – rccola on China Village in Albany

Old-School Clay Pot Lunch in SF Chinatown

Lunch at Ma's Dimsum & Cafe stirred up memories of Grandma's kitchen for gordon wing, who filed a report on the Chinatown hole in the wall that often sees a lunchtime rush of older clientele looking for hearty, home-style dishes. While the restaurant's menu includes rice plates, noodles, and soups, most diners choose the clay pots, which come in two sizes, though only the smaller size is listed on the menu.

gordon wing and a guest chose a Chinese bacon/sausage/pork spare rib clay pot topped with baby bok choy; he recommends adding sweet soy from the squeeze bottles on each table. They also ordered a side dish of tender, garlicky bitter melon with black beans, a welcome addition to the generous portion of rice left over in the clay pot after they'd consumed the toppings.

Some dishes, such as gai loong pastries, indicate a Toisan (a.k.a. Taishan) influence—gordon describes them as "savory, chewy/crispy dim sum items that my Grandmother used to make." These can be hard to find, though you can more easily locate their sweeter cousin, hom sui gok.

Ma's Dimsum & Cafe [Chinatown]
1315 Powell Street, San Francisco
415-788-3532

Discuss: Ma's Dim Sum & Cafe ...... Clay Pots & More .... [San Francisco]

A So-So Dinner at Camino

Camino, the Oakland restaurant renowned for its gorgeous dining room—a former furniture shop transformed by wide communal tables and a crackling fireplace—got a mixed review from sundeck sue, who says her recent dinner there was "both great and not so much."

Of the space, sundeck sue reports that it is "beautiful" but also "so noisy." She adored the tequila drink she ordered, a concoction of lime, blood orange juice, chiles, and salt. The wood-fired oven brought some of the dishes close to perfection, including a nicely seasoned grilled crab and a roasted asparagus side dish with black trumpet mushrooms and curly endive.

However, the crab and kimchi soup, as well as the vegetables served on the side of the roasted lamb, were nearly too salty to eat. And the service was spotty and forgetful: Though the stack of Acme pain d'epi loaves seemed so close, they were still too far for the server to retrieve, even after repeated requests.

"Feels like they're so close to terrific—but don't quite get there," she concludes.

Camino [East Bay]
3917 Grand Avenue, Oakland
510-547-5035

Discuss: monday @ camino [Oakland]