San Francisco Bay Area Digest

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Friday, November 20th, 2009

Bring a French Chef into Your Home


The house-made smoked sausage at La Bedaine, a French place selling its own charcuterie and ready-made French dinners to take home, already has its own fan club. 



“It is succulent, smoky, pure goodness,” says rworange. “They were the smokiest I’ve ever had except for some that a friend hand-carries back from Louisiana,” confirms Robert Lauriston. “Massive flavor for such a small quantity.”



The pork rillettes are also fantastic, says abstractpoet: “less salty than, and at least as good as, Fatted Calf’s—at a significantly lower price.” A portion is $4. 

The smoked halibut has exquisite texture, adds rworange. “Anyone with a passion for smoked whitefish will drop to their knees in reverence for this.”

“

Wild boar terrine is wonderful,” says nicedragonboy, and makes a good sandwich. noahj appreciates the pork terrine sandwich, especially for just $6. 



As for the Cryovac-ed take-home meals, abstractpoet enjoyed the hearty cassoulet, with generous pieces of beef, sausage, and what may have been duck leg. The smoked halibut dinner was also very good. 

To cook them at home, you pop them into a pot of boiling water, turn off the heat, and let sit 10 minutes.

A chocolate tart is lovely and fudgy in a crisp crust, but the croissants are on the bready side. The chef apparently used to cook at Le Charm, which bodes well for the duck dishes, says ernie in berkeley. 

And take note: These prices are too low to last, Robert Lauriston says. 



La Bedaine [East Bay]
1585 Solano Avenue, Berkeley
510-559-2201 



Board Links: Albany: La Bedaine Cuisine de l’atelier?

Berkeley: La Bedaine—Reasonably-priced French pastries, house-made smoked sausages, pates and French dinners to go

Friday, November 20th, 2009

Barbecue’s Second Coming




Taste of Joy Barbecue & Southern Bistro, a barbecue joint that opened earlier this year to good reviews on the boards despite its restricted hours, has reopened in a new location, abstractpoet reports.



Everything about the new location is better: bigger and nicer digs, longer hours, and a full bar (check out the “Southern sangria”) with wine and several beers on tap. Out back, there’s a fully equipped kitchen and a more extensive staff, so the menu has grown to include things like fried chicken wings and waffles, and fried catfish. 

But the brisket is as good as ever, in ToJ’s own style: thinly sliced, with a sweet sauce. Only difference is it’s plated more prettily now. And the gumbo is excellent, chock-full of sausage, chicken, shrimp, and crab. Better than Angeline’s, abstractpoet says. An old favorite, Cajun meatloaf, is still on the menu. Prices are a bit higher now, but still only marginally more expensive than Nellie’s, and it’s better than that. 



Speaking of barbecue, a meal at Da Pitt was “the first time in San Francisco I’d finally felt like I was in back in Memphis,” says vulber (who was disappointed by “bland overpriced barbecue and terrible sweet tea” at Memphis Minnie’s). Da Pitt is Louisiana-style ’cue, but the brisket is “delicious, tender and flavorful,” with an incredible sauce, vulber says.



Da Pitt has replaced Lilly’s (and the former Brother-in-Law’s), and apparently has a common history with both places. The menu is basic: brisket, chicken, hot links, short ribs, and pork ribs, all available in full or (very generous) half portions. The sides, unfortunately, are fairly weak: The beans taste like they came out of a can, the house-made coleslaw tastes distinctly weird, and some have specifically warned against the mac ’n’ cheese. 

There’s no ambience, of course, and hardly any seating although there’s a big parking lot. But the smoker is going full blast.



Taste of Joy Barbecue & Southern Bistro [East Bay]
3909 Grand Avenue, Oakland

510-891-1443



Da Pitt [Western Addition]

705 Divisadero Street, San Francisco
415-440-7427 




Board Links: Taste of Joy re-opened on Grand Ave: BBQ, gumbo, chicken and waffles, and more
So refreshing to learn that SF has authentic barbecue that doesn’t suck

Friday, November 20th, 2009

Overheard on the San Francisco Boards

“While visiting the area I grew up in a few months ago, I ate lots of lobster, and I would say this one rivaled any of the New England bugs I ate during the peak of the season this year.”
-jillyju



“These little cigar-shaped rolls about twice the size of a ladyfinger and just as delicate … right out of the oven are flaky, yeasty goodness sprinkled with sugar and oozing salty butter in the center.”
-rworange



“I’m already trying to figure out when I can drive across the bridge for another Ike’s gut-bomb.”

-Agent 510

Friday, November 20th, 2009

Serious Sandwiches at 4505 Meats

After having a cheeseburger at 4505 Meats a few weeks back, brian j was hooked—he’s been eating his way through the rest of Ryan Farr’s offerings ever since. 



The burger is superb: incredibly flavorful and juicy to a fault (once you pick it up, you’re best off not putting it back down). The meat is aged for 21 days and ground in-house. The single burger ($7) is a bit small, brian j says, but the double cheeseburger ($9) has a much better meat-to-bun ratio. 



At one Thursday farmers’ market at the Ferry Plaza (where the 4505 Meats stand is found), a sandwich of beef shank and smoked lengua crépinette with fried egg, Brussels sprouts, and aioli was “one of the best sandwiches I’ve eaten in my entire life,” brian j says. “Seriously amazing.” 
On another visit he tried the pig’s trotter banh mi: Braised trotters are deboned and then reconstructed, rolled up, breaded, and fried to order. It then goes into a baguette with pickled carrots and daikon, cilantro, and chiles.




4505 Meats [Embarcadero]
1 Ferry Plaza, San Francisco
No phone available



Board Link: 4505 Meats: EPIC lunches at the Ferry Plaza Thursday Farmers Market

Friday, November 13th, 2009

Overheard on the San Francisco Boards

“Best of all were the rendered pieces of chicken skin (shatteringly crunchy and paper thin) that they added to the sandwich. It added a component similar to a potato chip, but chicken flavored!”
-sfpizzalover

“Perfect crust, fresh apples, good sweetness (some will find it too sweet)… did I mention the crust?”
-telebear

“The burrata at A16 is still on my to-try list. The best I’ve had was from Ubuntu. This is better than that…. Since mine was just made it was nothing but sweet, fresh creaminess and so very delicate.”
-rworange

Friday, November 13th, 2009

Gamine Seduces a French-Food Skeptic

“I have always been deeply skeptical about all aspects of French cuisine,” begins SushiMonster. “So many other great places to eat without the unordered side dish of attitude, no? Well, brothers and sisters, I got over it tonight at Gamine. Oh boy did I ever get over.”

Things start out well with excellent thin fries with garlic aioli; delicious Prince Edward Island mussels in wine, garlic, and butter; and calamari with spicy aioli. Better than well. “Three home runs and we’re just getting warmed up.”

The basic burger with blue cheese, served on a baguette, is positively orgasmic. Beyond basic, options include fish or vegetarian burgers, four cheeses, bacon, and even a poached egg. Marinated lamb, heavy on the garlic and thyme, is just about perfect.

“There is no great secret to what these folks are doing right. It’s called a cow. There is cream. There is butter. There is a LOT of cream and butter in everything. Not rocket science. This stuff makes you feel good. Duh. Have another glass of wine. It’s excellent, too.”

If there’s any room left for dessert, the crème brûlée is top-notch.

The restaurant itself is small, about “the size of your average suburban living room,” and “loud as bombs.”

“Once you’re inside, you’re in very good hands and there’s nothing to do but roll up your sleeves, loosen your tie, tip back in your chair, drink a glass of beautiful wine and thank God you live in a city that could support a little restaurant that’s this good. Everything is going to work out just fine.”

Gamine [Cow Hollow]
2223 Union Street, San Francisco

415-771-7771

Board Link: Gamine: Or, how I finally learned to trust the French

Friday, November 13th, 2009

Chettinad and Indian-Chinese

In a sea of South Indian restaurants, Sri Muniyandi Vilas focuses on dishes from Chettinad, where, unlike much of South India, the cuisine is heavily nonvegetarian. The restaurant also specializes in Indian-Chinese cooking.

Chicken kothu paratha is a big winner, says zartemis. It’s a very large portion of well-spiced dark meat, served with curry sauce. “We’ll be getting this again frequently.” Pepper chicken is whole dark-meat pieces—most of the chicken here is dark meat—cooked in lots of onions and spices. There’s also complexly flavored chicken chettinad.

“Regular” biryani is actually Chettinad style, with egg, well-browned rice, and long-cooked spices. Meat (mutton or chicken) is served on the side, as is raita and curry sauce.

“I haven’t enjoyed the Indian Chinese dishes I’ve had elsewhere, but I like the all the ones we’ve tried at Muniyandi so far,” says zartemis. Maybe the best is the simple chili gobi, featuring cauliflower with a nicely fried crust and good heat. Sichuan chicken noodles, too, are surprisingly good. And if all else fails, there’s a wide range of the South Indian staples idli, dosa, and uttapam.

Sri Muniyandi Vilas [South Bay]
3064 El Camino Real, Santa Clara
408-829-5339

Board Link: Good Chettinadu and Indian Chinese dishes at Muniyandi Vilas (Santa Clara)

Friday, November 13th, 2009

Everything Thanksgiving 2009

For the cheapest halal or Diestel turkeys hounds have seen, where to get a turkey with gluten-free stuffing, and a list of Bay Area restaurants open for Thanksgiving, check out this thread: Everything Thanksgiving 2009. Wine country has its own version.

Board Links: Everything Thanksgiving 2009
Thanksgiving 2009–Wine Country

Friday, November 6th, 2009

Overheard on the San Francisco Bay Area Boards

“The turnover is like the best croissant ever, buttery, flakey, and crunchy.”
-rworange

“Pizza doesn’t get any simpler but more satisfying than this.”
-TNT Adventures

“This place puts the Burmese restaurants in SF to shame.”
- outrig8

Friday, November 6th, 2009

Perfect Porchetta

“Funny how just a few years ago we were whining on this board about our unmet cravings for porchetta. Now it’s everywhere,” comments Melanie Wong.

So where should a lover of Italian roasted pork start?

Robert Lauriston says one of the best he’s had locally is at Sea Salt. It doesn’t seem to be a regular menu item, though. Great roasted pork can also be found at Oliveto, Camino, and Corso, he says.

jillyju reports enjoying “a quick but transcendant dinner” at Il Cane Rosso in the San Francisco Ferry Building, where the porchetta dinner is a way better deal than the $9 sandwich.

“For only $12.95 I was given a generous pile of the meat, with lots of crispy pieces of skin scattered on top and a juicy quality that I’m not sure I’ve ever experienced in a piece of pork. I don’t know that I have ever had such delicious pork, anywhere. It was incredibly well-seasoned, every bite was tender, and the skin was a decadent, crispy, fatty delight.” It comes with a small salad of microgreens in a lemony dressing and roasted Mariquita Farm potatoes with whole cloves of roasted garlic.

Several hounds recommend the porchetta at Napa’s Fatted Calf, and Robert Lauriston says, “I’ve had his roast pig at events, he’s a master.” But Melanie Wong disagrees: “I liked the flavor, but the piece of meat was quite dry and lean on the cut we tasted.” She also dings the tough skin, but thinks maybe a slice from a different part might’ve been better.

Melanie’s favorite is RoliRoti, the rotisserie truck that can be found at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market (they also have a storefront, Rotisario, at the Oxbow Market in Napa).

“I love Kitchenette’s porchetta sandwich,” says carfeng.

Sea Salt [East Bay]
2512 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley
510-883-1720

Oliveto [East Bay]
5655 College Avenue, Oakland
510-547-5356

Camino [East Bay]
3917 Grand Avenue, Oakland
510-547-5035

Corso [East Bay]
1788 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley
510-704-8004

Il Cane Rosso [Embarcadero]
1 Ferry Plaza, San Francisco
415-391-7599

Fatted Calf [Napa County]
644-C First Street, Napa
707-256-3684

RoliRoti [Embarcadero]
1 Ferry Plaza, San Francisco
510-780-0300

Rotisario [Napa County]
610 First Street, Napa
510-780-0300

Kitchenette [Dogpatch/Potrero Hill]
958 Illinois Street, San Francisco
No phone available

Board Links: Where’s your fave porchetta?
Il Canne Rosso at the Ferry Building, SF

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