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Chowhounds have been saying for some time that the gnocchi at Hearth are world-class. kathryn goes a dimension further, calling them “the best gnocchi in the history of the universe.” They’re light, creamy, and impossibly delicate, she says, “the definition of billowy, with a little butter, a little Parmigiano, and a fresh twist of a grinder of pepper.”
Also wonderful, if not celestial, is roast duck done to a turn, medium rare, with duck jus, greenmarket peaches, and foie gras. Other high points in kathryn’s richly satisfying dinner were roast quail with quail egg, tomato, and warm farro salad; and a lovely (and unusually large) torchon of foie gras with Concord grapes, frisée, almonds, and brioche. Warm apple-cider doughnuts, a perennial favorite here, were the perfect autumn dessert.
“Hearth doesn’t get that much buzz these days,” kathryn adds, “but the room was packed and bar was buzzing with walk-in parties.”
Hearth [East Village]
403 E. 12th Street (at First Avenue), Manhattan
646-602-1300
Board Link: Recent Hearth Recommendations?
Um, I wonder where the greenmarket that supplied the peaches was located? I doubt if they meant Union Square Greenmarket! What this shows is that even a reputable restaurant like Hearth is not immune to using meaningless words to describe their menu items. Or that a presumably intelligent diner like kathryn would not think that something is odd to find them on an autumn menu. I would much more...+READ
Um, I wonder where the greenmarket that supplied the peaches was located? I doubt if they meant Union Square Greenmarket! What this shows is that even a reputable restaurant like Hearth is not immune to using meaningless words to describe their menu items. Or that a presumably intelligent diner like kathryn would not think that something is odd to find them on an autumn menu. I would much more enjoy pears, and not peaches, in November with my duck. And the chef can find something other than tomato to serve with the farro salad, too. I am not saying that locovore is the only way to go, but if you live the Western Hemisphere, then the words tomatoes, peaches, and autumn do not belong together in truly fine menu.-COLLAPSE