Chicken on a Stick

Yakitori Kokko is a breath of fresh air for lovers of authentic Japanese grilled chicken on the Peninsula, says K K.

 The owner, Keisuke Suga, also runs Kappo Nami Nami in Mountain View, and, like Nami Nami, Kokko has a classical minimalist design, with wood floors and ceilings, and sections divided by traditional-style curtains.



You order by the skewer, choosing the seasoning for each, like shio (salt) or tare (a soy-based sauce). Shio momo, or chicken thigh, "was dead-on perfect in all aspects. The standard must order," says K K. Chicken gizzard, or sunazuri, has good crunch. And chicken heart (kawa) is nice and juicy.

 Unfortunately, chicken meatballs with tare are way too salty; the version at Sumika is much better.



There are also some meat, seafood, and vegetable options, plus izakaya-type sides and fusion dishes. Bacon-wrapped asparagus is a nice one.




Kokko [Peninsula]

509 Second Avenue, San Mateo

650-401-7008




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