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Buddhist Duck, Explained

“Buddhist duck” is not a vegetarian duck substitute. It’s not made of tofu. It’s not the Shanghainese Buddhist specialty known as mock duck (ribbony layers of tofu skin wrapped round minced mushrooms). It’s an actual duck, albeit a particularly scrawny duck. With the feet still attached.

Buddhist duck is very flavorful, says dumoyer2, although there’s not a lot of meat. “It’s similar to Buddhist-style chicken,” says Miss Needle. Buddhist-style chickens are generally scrawny—and flavorful—because they are able to roam free, she says. “The chickens most Americans tend to eat have been factory raised in coops where they are not allowed to roam, which leads to a fattier chicken.”

Board Link: what the &%#*!!! is a Buddhist Duck?

Is There Life After Salt?

“Really, there is no substitute for salt,” says pikawicca. “Nothing else performs like it in cooking.” But if you have to give up salt for medical reasons, is there any hope for you as a Chowhound?

There is such a thing as “salt substitute.” It’s sold in supermarkets and it’s mostly potassium chloride, says MikeG. He can’t stand the stuff, but if you can tolerate stevia as a sugar substitute, then you might be able to choke down fake salt. If you can have some of the real thing, great-tasting sea salt has a lot less sodium than regular table salt, says Sean.

Another approach is to eliminate your need for salt by going cold-turkey on salt for a few weeks. It took greygarious about two weeks to flush out the craving for salt, “but after that most commercially-prepared food seems unpleasantly salty. A canister of salt lasts me at least a decade,” says greygarious. Jeff Smith (the late Frugal Gourmet) minimized salt in his cooking after having heart problems: “He always said that increasing other seasonings, particularly pepper and lemon, compensated well for the absence of salt,” says greygarious.

Normandie has found that there’s something about vinegar that satisfies some salt cravings, even though it has no sodium. “I don’t know if in some way it interacts with the same taste receptors that salt does, but I know it works to a pretty good degree for me,” says Normandie.

Board Link: Best Salt Substitute?

Tea-Infused Vodka Rapture

Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka, made in South Carolina and infused with locally grown tea, is an interesting concoction, says lynnlato. Mixed up with spring water and a lemon wedge, it tastes exactly like iced tea.

baldiboys is such a big fan of the refreshing infusion that he is in danger of breaking his computer keyboard with excitement. “OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!! This stuff is awesome,” he raves. He likes it so much that he brought three bottles back from a recent trip to Charleston. “This stuff mixed with REALLY good lemonade is GREAT!!!”

merlinscat just discovered the spirit. “I’m not a huge drinker,” he explains. “I like expensive tequila and Michelob Light, but that was until I discovered Firefly!”

“Find it. Drink it. This is just wonderful stuff,” agrees mamasquirrel. It’s wonderful on the rocks with mint simple syrup and a twist of lemon. “Just be aware—this is a really smooth drink, and you’ll drink more than you realize if you’re not careful,” says mamasquirrel.

CHOW’s drinks expert Jordan Mackay also approves.

Board Link: Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka

Make Every Game Day a Hell Night

Dr. Pepper, who runs the infamous chile-centric Hell Nights at East Coast Grill, has another, less-well-known gig going: a sausage stand on game days. Look for him at the yellow Sausage Connection stand on Lansdowne Street, says zoenik, where you can get sausages with homemade chili sauce that approximates the late (as in, no longer produced), great hot sauce Inner Beauty.

“Wow. The hot sauce was fantastic. My eyes were watering a bit (in the good way). There were lots of peppers and onions, which resulted in a delicious delightful mess,” says CreativeFoodie42.

Sausage Connection [Fenway]

13 Lansdowne Street, Boston
617-818-6167

Board Link: Dr Pepper’s sausage stand in Fenway?

Annapurna’s Exquisite Touch

Nepalese food isn’t common in Boston, and recently transplanted hound BokChoi had never tried it at all. Annapurna Restaurant turned out to be an inspired introduction to the cuisine. Order like BokChoi did and you won’t go wrong:

Chicken momos, which are steamed and filled with ground chicken, cilantro, and Himalayan herbs, accompanied by a yogurt sauce.
Samosas, which BokChoi says have thin, flaky homemade wrappers: “When bit into, it puffs and your mouth is filled with this delicate aroma of spices and the silky texture of the potatoes just nestles against your tongue.”
• Incredible naans that are thin, not doughy and thick.
• High-quality rice that is fluffy, firm, and fragrant: “It’s such subtle detail like this (and the fact that they top each rice bowl with a dainty fresh green pea) that make our dining experiences at Annapurna so satisfying,” says BokChoi.
Saag paneer with spinach that’s still chewy, not green mush.
Aloo gobi mutter with sweet, crisp peas and cauliflower.
Goat biryani, with light fluffy rice and tender goat.

“I was so very impressed with their curries and how everything tasted so incredibly different that I once asked Chef about it. He told me that he arrived each morning to the restaurant at 7 a.m. to grind each one of the up to 20 different herbs and spices that would go into each one of his UNIQUE curries,” says BokChoi. Now that’s a far cry from using a prepackaged curry paste.

Annapurna Restaurant [North Cambridge]
2088 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge
617-876-8664

Board Link: Annapurna - cooking, enlightened (lengthy review + pics)

H Mart Hits Like an H-Bomb

The long-awaited new branch of Korean grocery store H Mart is finally open in Burlington, and hounds are cock-a-hoop over the glorious bounty in its 51,000 square feet. Once you can fight through the vast crowds, here’s what you’ll find:

• A giant selection of seafood with daily specials
• Pristine produce at bargain prices, including specialty Asian produce like shiso and kkaennip, Korean sesame leaves
• Many Korean items like seaweed, noodles, jarred pastes, and a zillion varities of kimchee
• Japanese and Korean convenience foods, such as pancake and curry mixes
Japanese and Korean frozen foods
• Asian housewares, like rice cookers
• A food court with Indian, Japanese, and three different styles of Korean food
• A bakery with European, American, and Asian specialties, as well as decent house coffee
• Marinated meats for at-home Korean barbecue
• American, Southeast Asian, and Indian groceries
• Aisles of prepared foods, including meats, noodles, and banchan

On the downside, the parking isn’t great; the lot may be too small for the traffic the store will draw. The food court similarly doesn’t have a lot of seating, so take your food to go instead.

H Mart [North of Boston]
3 Old Concord Road, Burlington
781-221-4570

Board Links: H-Mart?
H-Mart Burlington!!!

Rio Brazil’s Happy Feasts

People are singing in the kitchen. There’s raucous laughter and the scent of palm oil and coconut. Welcome to the tiny Rio Brazil Café. “People wander in and out, affectionate, informal greetings pour out in Portuguese and English, there’s none of the ‘hello my name is Jane and I will be your server tonight’ nonsense,” says Das Ubergeek. “This little slice of Rio, with its amazingly good home-cooking, its bright flavours, its welcoming atmosphere, deserves to be hopping… but it isn’t. Go enjoy this before it’s gone.”

The feijoada is legendary: smoky black beans with sausage, pork, and beef parts. It’s served traditionally, with delicious rice, toasted yuca flour, collard greens, and orange slices. “Were I to go alone to Rio Brazil, I would have feijoada,” says Das Ubergeek. And streetgourmetla says, “Luciene [the chef] makes genuine feijoada, with tender meats, homemade carne seca, luscious beans, and all the pleasing textures of a real feijoada. This is required eating.”

Bobo de camarao—translated as “silliness with shrimp” by Das Ubergeek—is a brightly colored dish of very fresh, springy large prawns, coated with a velvety sauce made of yuca and coconut milk. Escondido—“something hidden”—is house-made dried beef hidden in a casserole of mashed yuca and topped with cheese.

Moquecas (Brazilian seafood stews) of fish and hearts of palm are available on the weekends. “The sauce is properly cooked down so that flavor is optimized in every bite. This is the mark of a great moqueca,” explains streetgourmetla.

Coconut pudding topped with blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries is a sensational dessert. And passion fruit mousse is pure Brazil, says streetgourmetla—sweet, tart, and tropical.

Rio Brazil Café [Westside–Inland]
3300 Overland Avenue, Los Angeles
310-558-3338

Board Links: Blame it on Rio Brazil Cafe
REVIEW: Rio Brasil Café, Palms

“Ear Wax” Rice Cakes

Dean Sin World just introduced a beloved Tianjin snack to its menu: pan-fried flat rice cakes, also known as “ear wax fried cakes.” This is because they were invented in a Tianjin shop that abutted a very narrow alley, known in the area as the “alley the width of an earwax,” explains TonyC. No joking!

“They’re flat yet plump, with a thin layer of red bean paste,” says TonyC. “Think hot fried mochi, cheap, with a red bean paste center. Koreans will say this resembles ho dduk, but the texture and shape is much more uniform, and fried with very little oil, at a lower temperature. Overall, it’s a more delicate product sporting less sweetness, and a balanced crisp, chewy texture.”

Ear wax fried cakes were picked by the Chinese government as a National Treasure Snack in 1997. The best ear wax fried cakes have a crisp, yellow outside, a soft inside, good stretchiness, and the pungency of fried carbs.

If you want to order one, just point to your ear.

Dean Sin World [San Gabriel Valley]
306 N. Garfield Avenue #2, Monterey Park
626-571-0636

Board Link: “Earwax” rice cake dessert at Dean Sin World / Tastio, Monterey Park.

Hail to the Once and Future Dumpling King

For a while, the reigning Chowhound favorite for dumplings was the beloved Noodle House on Garvey in Monterey Park, where the cooks skillfully rolled out each dumpling by hand the moment you ordered them, and where the skins were perfectly toothsome and the fillings gorgeous. Then Noodle House changed hands, and the quality dropped.

But the cooks of the original Noodle House have opened up a new place—also called Noodle House—in Rowland Heights. “The food was every bit as good as we remembered,” says yangster. “As well it should… we recognized a couple of the cooks working in the kitchen.”

Apparently, the owner of Noodle House decided the old location was too small, so picked up and moved house. The new location is about three or four times larger and boasts a big window into the kitchen.

Noodle House [San Gabriel Valley]
18219 E. Gale Avenue #A, Rowland Heights
626-938-8806

Board Link: Noodle House Re-appears!!!

Taiwanese Revival in Flushing

Temple Snacks has been a wandering ministry for devotees of Taiwanese street food, starting a few years back at the Flushing Mall food court. Last year it decamped for a new place a couple of blocks east, a Chowhound favorite that was sadly short-lived.

Now it’s back where it started. Among other things, it makes superior versions of the thick, comforting soups beloved in Taiwan, including one with pork intestine that FattyDumplin considers the best in Flushing—which would most likely make it the best in New York. Overall, he adds, the food is “very simple but yummy,” including a fine Taiwanese-style sausage. Past reports praise Temple Snacks’ gua bao, a snackish sandwich of stewed pork belly and pickled vegetables in a steamed bun, commonly called a Taiwanese burger.

That’s not to be confused with the delicious cumin-scented lamb burger from Xian Famous Foods at Golden Mall on Main Street. These days you can also get one at Flushing Mall, at the newish Xian Famous Foods outpost one stall over from Temple Snacks. Try the lamb noodles, FattyDumplin suggests.

A block away, Jim Leff has struck gold at Golden Szechuan. Beef shank with garlic is supertender stewed meat in succulent brown sauce, a brilliant union of Sichuan, Shanghai, and even old-school Jewish cooking, with an “ultra-slow building burn that was so unexpected and so wonderful.” Fish in hot bean paste sauce is spicy and sublimely cooked, and tea-smoked pork boasts perfect, elegant smokiness. All three dishes are “worth a trip from anywhere,” Jim says. He does fault a lack of numbing/spicy Sichuan peppercorn in his initial order, an omission he ascribes to “gringo displeasure concerns” on the part of the staff. But they came around after he complained. Chalk it up to miscommunication.

No such communication problems these days at M&T, a recent hound discovery that offers dishes from Qingdao in Shandong Province, north of Shanghai. The real-deal specialties, once listed only in Chinese, have now been translated into English, scoopG reports. Some recent hits: pork belly stewed in kelp; fried prawns with dried chile and Sichuan peppercorn; sea worms (a critter something like sea cucumber) stir-fried with Chinese chives; salt-and-pepper Bombay duck (dried lizardfish), rehydrated, battered, fried, and served with basil; and, for dessert, fried pumpkin fritters, crisp, light, and not too sweet. Polecat sums it up: This is “simple food with some subtle and unique flavors. Highly recommended.”

Temple Snacks [Flushing]
In the Flushing Mall food court
133-31 39th Avenue (between College Point Boulevard and Prince Street), Flushing, Queens
347-515-4558

Xian Famous Foods [Flushing]
In the Flushing Mall food court
133-31 39th Avenue (between College Point Boulevard and Prince Street), Flushing, Queens
No phone available

Golden Szechuan [Flushing]
133-47 Roosevelt Avenue (between Prince Street and College Point Boulevard), Flushing, Queens
718-762-2664

M&T Restaurant [Flushing]
44-09 Kissena Boulevard (between Cherry and 45th avenues), Flushing, Queens
718-539-3398

Board Links: Flushing Mall Update
Golden Sichuan in Flushing
New in Flushing: M&T Restaurant–A Taste of Qingdao

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