Digest

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Quanta: Ethiopian Beef Jerky

Das Ubergeek has been quietly yearning for a little Ethiopian deliciousness in Orange County, to match the insane Ethiopian greatness way up on Fairfax. In 2007 he found his spot, Tana Ethiopian, and recently updated his old post with the news that Tana has expanded its menu.

Das Ubergeek’s new favorites include boiled potatoes with niter kebbeh, gingery, garlicky, spicy clarified butter, as well as biscuits made from chickpea flour, “buried in a pile of meltingly soft, sweet, caramelized spiced onions. It tasted like dessert,” says Das Ubergeek. They are “sweet oniony cookies, fantastic, unbelievable.”

But the best of the new items is a meat dish, quanta firfir: injera cooked with awaze, the spicy red pepper of Ethiopia, so it’s soft and lightly spicy and mellow, and with quanta, Ethiopian beef jerky. The quanta is so dry it’s crunchy, says Das Ubergeek.

Das Ubergeek also tried green beans cooked with onions until they were almost singed. “These were so good that my wife ate green beans willingly for the first time in two decades,” says Das Ubergeek. Collards have some crumbly cheese, which makes them very savory. And red lentils have “a smoky, rich, almost mole-like quality to them that just drove me wild,” says Das Ubergeek. You can order them all on the veggie platter, “a veritable mountain of food,” for a mere $10.

Tana Ethiopian [Orange County]
2622 W. La Palma Avenue, Anaheim
714-229-1719

Board Link: REVIEW: Tana Ethiopian Restaurant, Anaheim.

Ice-Creamy Shaved Ice

The best shaved ice, snow cone, or raspados experience ever is not from some magical cart. It’s from hipster ice cream bar MILK, says TimToyGeek. There are tons of flavors to choose from, including classic (lemon, lychee) and otherwise (espresso, Mojito, tamarind with chile).

Coconut shaved ice is very fresh, with lots of crispy coconut shreds; the milk is sweet but not cloying. Dulce de leche with strawberry comes with buttery, obviously homemade dulce de leche and fresh strawberries. “The milk helped tie everything together, so you had less of a snow cone with watery flavors and more of an icy creamy treat,” says TimToyGeek.

MILK [Mid-City]
7290 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles
323-939-6455

Board Link: Shaved Ice at MILK

New Name, Same Fine Filipino Food

Noi is Filipino excellence. It used to be called Asian Noodles. The name has recently changed, but the wonderful Filipino food is the same, says pleasurepalate.

Pansit palabok is rice noodles with shrimp, deep-fried squid, hard-boiled eggs, and crushed chicharrones. The sauce is made from shrimp juice and atchuete (a.k.a. annatto or achiote) oil, balanced with a shot of lemon juice.

Another favored dish, bicol express, is seafood cooked in a mildly spicy coconut sauce, with just enough seasoning to cut through the sweetness of the coconut milk. It’s also plenty generous in the seafood department, with clams, mussels, squid, and shrimp.

Filipino fried chicken isn’t batter-fried. It’s simmered in a mixture of soy sauce, black peppercorns, vinegar, and bay leaf, then deep-fried naked to dark golden brown, so that the flesh itself is a bit dry, but the chicken skin is deliciously crispy. Dip it in some banana ketchup and you’ll be a happy camper, says pleasurepalate.

Noi [Downtown]
643 N. Spring Street, Los Angeles
213-617-1083

Board Link: REVIEW w/ pics: Feeling Filipino Love for Noi

A West African Feast for Hard Times

HLing, who like many of us has entered austerity mode, found the perfect place to suspend her no-eating-out policy for a night: B&B African American Cuisine, where a West African feast set her back just $5.

Best bites included lamb with okra, chicken meatballs, crushed-rice dishes, beef in sorrel sauce, and peanut stew with beef and chicken, all on the self-service, steam tables. Despite the restaurant’s name, you’ll find little that’s American, or African American, at this by-the-pound buffet. There are, however, some Caribbean dishes, which might include jerk or curried chicken.

Though far from Harlem, the city’s West African hub, B&B is a short walk from a smaller African commercial enclave south of Koreatown. Its clientele reflects that, and Midtown or downtown hounds hankering for West African flavors might want to check it out. “I feel fortunate I got to taste something new to me,” HLing writes, “despite the infrequency of chowhounding these days.”

B&B African American Cuisine [Chelsea]
165 W. 26th Street (between Sixth and Seventh avenues), Manhattan
212-627-2914

Board Link: B & B African American Cuisine

Chicken for Dinner, Cheese for Dessert

In a Brooklyn neighborhood full of Middle Eastern chow, Al Safa stands out. Its roasted chicken is superb, the equal of the fine version at Al Safa’s predecessor, the departed Mazza Plaza, Wet Towel promises. Other winners are foul mudammas (fava beans), chicken shawarma, spinach mini-pies, and kibbeh (meat-and-cracked-wheat bites).

For dessert, Wet Towel recommends Nablus Sweets a few blocks away, especially for its Palestinian cheese pastry, kenafa (Nablus Sweets spells it k’nafee on its menu): “it was outstanding. Really stellar. Get that with an espresso.”

Al Safa [Bay Ridge]
8002 Fifth Avenue (at 80th Street), Brooklyn
718-238-9576

Nablus Sweets [Bay Ridge]
6812 Fifth Avenue (between 68th Street and Bay Ridge Avenue), Brooklyn
718-748-1214

Board Links: Need Bay Ridge Help…80th St and 5th Ave?
Karam in Bay Ridge
Kenafa in Bay Ridge

Rice Pudding, All Dressed Up

At Parlor Steakhouse, the rice pudding is something special. “It was rice pudding,” says Deenso, “but with a big twist.” Part of that twist is visible right on top: a sprinkling of crisped rice, followed with a blast of flame à la crème brûlée. There’s also a scoop of crème fraîche ice cream and a tart seasonal note hidden underneath.

Deenso takes us through it, bite by bite: “The first spoonful was such a happy experience–the cold ice cream, the crunch and sweet and just-torched hot surface, and the cool and creamy, not-overly-sweet rice pudding. Next dip of the spoon, to the bottom of the bowl, was even better because the rice pudding was covering a base of rhubarb compote.” She adds: “whatever else you have, save room for that dessert!”

Parlor Steakhouse [Upper East Side]
1600 Third Avenue (at E. 90th Street), Manhattan
212-423-5888

Board Link: Fabulous and unusual dessert at Parlor

Chef’s Choice: Barbecue

The award-winning former executive chef at the well-regarded (but now closed) Fournou’s Ovens in the Stanford Court hotel in San Francisco, Larry Vito, has just opened BBQ Smokehouse, and “I honestly haven’t tasted anything as good since I attended South by Southwest last year in Austin,” raves PauliBee.

Pork ribs are meaty, trimmed St. Louis style, and permeated with smoke, says Melanie Wong, who tracked down this place after trying some of its ’cue at a contest. That smoke comes from applewood, which Chef Vito says he prefers for a finer, sweeter smoke. His own style is close to Memphis, but with some latitude for personal expression. Barbecue chicken may even appeal to those who aren’t usually fans. It’s pink, moist, and “so delicious from the apple smoke, dry rub, and a light glaze of his own non-sweet tomato based sauce,” says Melanie. The chef wants his meats to stand alone, and indeed they do.

Brisket shows the influence of Vito’s classical French training, served with a sauce that’s a reduction of the beef drippings and aromatics. It’s supertender, says rworange (well, it did get smoked for 14 hours) and delicious even cold.

If you’re still hungry for dessert, the OD Cookie next door at Patisserie Angelica may not send you to the hospital, but it does have cracklike qualities. Hounds tell themselves they can have just a little, but then end up eating “another… and, another–until there was none left” (Cynsa).

BBQ Smokehouse [Sonoma County]
6811 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol
707-575-3277

Patisserie Angelica [Sonoma County]
6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol
707-827-7998

Board Links: BBQ Smokehouse in Sebastopol – Opens June 16, 5pm
BBQ Contest Winners – Celebrate Healdsburg
Patisserie Angelica’s OD (overdose) Cookie

Handmade Tortillas Make Tacos Like Dumplings

Sopes and quesadillas hechas a mano (made by hand) with fresh masa and a standout birria (spicy goat stew) all make Tacos Los Gemelos a welcome newcomer to Redwood City, where it has a truck and a recently opened restaurant with the same menu. A few hounds reported back after checking out the truck’s goodies.

Those handmade tortillas make the tacos special, says bbulkow. “They’ve got a different texture than machine made–almost more like dumplings.”

Melanie Wong says it’s one of the top taco trucks she’s run across. Her sope was made to order: “The tender masa boat was topped with a layer of frijoles, then the spicy beef barbacoa, and finely shredded cabbage on top. Quite a bit of deliciousness here for so little money.” RWCFoodie somehow got guacamole or avocado salsa instead of the frijoles, but was just as pleased: “It was so tasty; I tried to eat it slowly but just gobbled it down.” And gordon wing appreciated the barbacoa’s “nice, spicy finish.”

Other good things: Taco de cabeza is wonderful, says RWCFoodie; maigre adds that the lengua is nice. An unusual specialty is aporriadillo, or dried steak. It’s like cecina (strips of dried, salted meat), reports Melanie Wong, but cut into coarse dice. It’s chewy, with an intense beefy flavor.

Tacos Los Gemelos truck [Peninsula]
2801 El Camino Real, Redwood City
650-369-0437

Los Gemelos Taqueria [Peninsula]
2855 Middlefield Road, Redwood City
No phone available

Board Link: Aporriadillo, Barbacoa, Sopes y Tortillas de Maiz Hechas a Mano at Tacos Los Gemelos (truck), Redwood City

Laissez les Bon Temps Rouler!

Authentic Creole-/Cajun-style chow can be found in the Bay Area. “South Looziana” expat bayareatiger lays it out:

Angeline’s gets four stars for savory étouffée (especially over fried grits), fried chicken, barbecued shrimp, beignets, and pecan pie.

Yats, while not a real restaurant (it’s inside Jack’s Club), also gets four stars for étouffée, “drippin’s poboy,” and gumbo. Zeldog notes that “poboys are sometimes very good (shrimp) and sometimes lousy (roast beef).”

Gator’s Neo-Soul Cafe ranks three stars for jambalaya, cheesy grits, and Mississippi mud pie.

Poor House Bistro, with two stars, has a nice muffaletta sandwich and above-par beignets and jambalaya.

Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen [East Bay]
2261 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley
510-548-6900

Yats New Orleans Original Po Boys [Potrero Hill]
2545 24th Street (inside Jack’s Club), San Francisco
415-282-8906

Gator’s Neo-Soul Cafe [Peninsula]
129 S. B Street, San Mateo
650-685-8100

Poor House Bistro [South Bay]
91 S. Autumn Street, San Jose
408-292-5837

Board Link: creole cajun recommendations

Summer-Perfect Watermelon Salad

Watermelon is among the most refreshing of summer foods. In a salad with feta cheese, it becomes dinner fare, and several hounds are fans of Nigella Lawson’s watermelon, feta, and black olive salad.

CreativeFoodie42 likes to use good balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil, because “the feta and the watermelon really highlight those two ingredients.” hotoynoodle simply adds black olives, mint, and a little olive oil; and janeh combines watermelon, cucumber, feta, and mint and leaves it undressed. “Perfect and refreshing on a hot summer day,” she says. vcavett loves very thinly sliced red onions in hers.

hotoynoodle warns that watermelon feta salad doesn’t keep well because the watermelon weeps so much.

CHOW’s version includes tomatoes, and uses ricotta salata in place of feta.

Board Link: Watermelon and Feta Salad

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