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» San Francisco Bay Area Digest

Get Your Filipino Fried Pork Fix

Got a craving for deep-fried pork knuckle (crispy pata) or purple yam ice cream with all the fixings (halo-halo)? The best Filipino food in the Bay Area is concentrated on the Peninsula, and hounds all have their favorites.

“The trick is to find out which restaurant does which dishes well,” says pilinut. She calls
Tribu Grill her favorite Filipino restaurant, and says it offers a dizzying list of dishes to order:

• Chicken inasal, or chicken marinated in citrus, garlic, lemongrass, vinegar, and achiote oil and grilled

• Bagoong rice, which puts a Filipino spin on a Thai dish with shrimp-paste rice tipped with green mango, pork, egg, and tomato

• Crispy pata

• Sisig, a.k.a. “sizzling pig’s face”
• Daing na bangus, fried marinated milkfish

• Filipino-style barbecue pork and chicken

• Bibingka, sweet baked rice cake

• Halo-halo

However, she adds, Tribu’s kare-kare (oxtail stew) and pinakbet (vegetable stew) aren’t thrilling.

Pilinut’s mom likes the crispy pata at Patio Filipino, which also offers a nice binagoong baboy, or deep-fried pork belly cooked with shrimp paste. EnderWiggin puts in a vote for the bone marrow soup and crispy lechon (fried pork), and sfbing loves the oxtail calderata with olives, and the halo-halo, an unusual version that comes stuffed in a coconut. But avoid the paella, pilinut says, unless you enjoy the taste of Knorr/Maggi bottled seasoning.

Alimango is hotlipshoagie’s favorite. Word is the coconut crab is delicious, with the delicate flavor of crab standing up to the assertive coconut. But the food is markedly better on weekdays; the place doesn’t seem to be adequately staffed for weekends.

Toppings Too Restaurant is a no-frills place with delicious, fresh-tasting food, says pushslice, who recommends the laing (coconut-cooked taro leaves), sisig, and diniguan, pork stew with blood. Fried pork belly (inihaw na liempo) is really good, adds westcoaststyle. For dessert, try cold taho (bean curd, syrup, and tapioca). The Union City location is more of a takeout joint, while Toppings Restaurant in South San Francisco/Daly City has plenty of tables and seating.

Good Bites Cafe in Belmont has quick, inexpensive lunches. Arroz caldo, a Filipino-style rice porridge, and chicken or pork adobo are the real thing, says pilinut, and so are the Filipino breakfasts with garlic rice, really good fried eggs, and choice of milkfish, longanisa sausage, and even Spam.

Finally, there’s a certain primal satisfaction to tearing into deep-fried meats, which abound in Filipino cuisine. EnderWiggin likes the crispy pata and crispy fried beef ribs at Max’s of the Philippines.

Tribu Grill [Peninsula]
235 El Camino Real, San Bruno
650-872-8851

Patio Filipino [Peninsula]
1770 El Camino Real, San Bruno
650-872-9888

Alimango [Peninsula]
3708 South El Camino Real, San Mateo
650-357-1888

Toppings Too Restaurant [East Bay]
3910 Smith Street, Union City
510-429-1058

Toppings Restaurant [South San Francisco]
2215 Gellert Boulevard, South San Francisco
650-754-1058

Good Bites Cafe [Peninsula]
1504 El Camino Real, Belmont
650-592-4837

Max’s of the Philippines [South San Francisco]
1155 El Camino Real, South San Francisco
650-872-6748

Board Link: Filipino food - best around the bay?

Posted on Friday, February 27th, 2009 by Cicely Wedgeworth in San Francisco Bay Area Digest | No Comments
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» San Francisco Bay Area Digest

Al Pastor, the Thrill of the Grill

When in the mood for tacos of spit-roasted meat (usually pork) “al pastor,” or shepherd’s style, several hounds say they head to Taqueria San Jose. But although the taco al pastor at the original Taqueria San Jose in the Mission is first-rate, says Robert Lauriston, “the Oakland branch isn’t in the same class at all, I’m not sure they even have a vertical spit—they were just scooping precooked out of a steam-table bucket when I was there.”

Nothing puts al pastor over the top like a spit crowned with pineapple, its juices trickling down to lubricate the meat. You even get a slice of the roasted fruit in your taco. This variation is tough to find, but rworange says the version at Taqueria La Selva on weekend nights is the best she’s had in the Bay Area.

DezzerSF thinks that the pineapple-topped pastor at Taqueria Los Portales might be the Bay Area’s best, with subtle but complex seasonings and that unmistakable barbecued flavor.

El Gordo taco truck has al pastor on a spit, adds Dezzer, but no pineapple.

Taqueria San Jose [Mission]
2830 Mission Street, San Francisco
415-282-0203

Taqueria San Jose [East Bay]
3433 International Boulevard, Oakland
510-533-5748

Taqueria San Jose [Marin County]
615 Fourth Street, San Rafael
415-455-0999

Taqueria La Selva [East Bay]
1049 23rd Street, Richmond
510-237-0913

Taqueria Los Portales [East Bay]
36782 Cedar Boulevard, Newark
510-745-7754

El Gordo [East Bay]
4201 International Boulevard, Oakland
No phone number

Board Links: Tacos Al Pastor - Vertical Spit with Pineapple - Anyone in the east bay?
SF: Tacos and guarache at El Cachanilla?
Tacos Al Pastor @ Los Portales (Newark)
Richmond street feast part 2: Taqueria La Selva - the best al pastor tacos vapor in the Bay Area

Posted on Friday, February 27th, 2009 by Cicely Wedgeworth in San Francisco Bay Area Digest | 1 Comment
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» San Francisco Bay Area Digest

Islamic Chinese Spicy Secret

Chinjin Eastern House specializes in Islamic Chinese food, but also makes a mean bowl of Sichuan spicy beef noodle soup, says K K, and “you get way better value than the classic A & J in Cupertino.”

Granted, A & J Restaurant is more Taiwanese-style, but Chinjin’s version ($6.95) is no slouch, K K says. There are two kinds of broth (stew and Szechuan spicy) and two cuts of beef (flank and tendon). For the best of both worlds, ask for bahn jin bahn rou (half beef, half tendon). You get a large bowl of well-stewed beef and tendon, and quite a few stalks of the light green vegetable qing jiang cai. The broth is flavorful but fairly straightforward, with a judicious amount of chile oil but no other herbs or spices. You can also choose between thin and thick noodles; thin are light and toothsome, and, although K K didn’t try the thick noodles, they sound like the knife-shaved kind, and are made in-house.

The multilayered beef cake is toasty outside and juicy inside, but not nearly up to Old Mandarin Islamic’s version, K K says. Saturday and Sunday bring northern-style dim sum specials—see K K’s post for translations.

Chinjin also has a different take on stinky tofu, says Humbucker: “Not very stinky, not fried and with a thick sauce that has a cheese-like tang.”

Overall, Chinjin is as good as, if not better than, the overrated Darda in Milpitas, K K says.

Chinjin Eastern House [South Bay]
1530 S. De Anza Boulevard, San Jose
408-865-0302

A & J Restaurant [South Bay]
10893 N. Wolfe Road, Cupertino
408-873-8298

Old Mandarin Islamic Restaurant [Outer Sunset]
3132 Vicente Street, San Francisco
415-564-3481

Darda Seafood Restaurant [South Bay]
296 Barber Court, Milpitas
408-433-5199

Board Link: Chinjin Eastern House Islamic Chinese - San Jose

Posted on Friday, February 27th, 2009 by Cicely Wedgeworth in San Francisco Bay Area Digest | 1 Comment
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» Home Cooking Digest

Make Leeks the Star Ingredient

Leeks are more than an onion stand-in, say Chowhounds. They’re terrific all on their own, particularly in preparations that showcase them. Try braising them whole in chicken stock or water and serving them with a mustardy vinaigrette and capers. Broiling is another good cooking method: Top leeks with melted butter and Gruyère or Parmesan before cooking. And you can slice them and sauté in butter to use in an omelet or frittata; or try making this potato and leek gratin with cumin (registration required).

Caralien makes a super-simple potato-leek soup that really lets the flavors of the leek and potato shine through. Combine leeks and a slightly greater volume of waxy potatoes, both thinly sliced, a generous amount of sea salt, and water. Simmer until the vegetables are tender, then purée. Others like to use chicken stock as the cooking liquid, and some finish the soup with cream. For a flavor twist, add garlic, nutmeg, cayenne, or dill seed.

Board Links: Potato Leek Soup--it really is that simple
Leeks

Posted on Thursday, February 26th, 2009 by Caitlin McGrath in Home Cooking Digest | No Comments
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» Home Cooking Digest

Easy, Elegant Parmesan Crisps

Parmesan crisps, known as frico in Italian, make an elegant garnish for soups and salads or a delectable snack on their own. And they couldn’t be simpler to make. Simply spread grated Parmesan in rounds on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone baking mat and bake at 350°F until the cheese is melted and crisp; let cool before removing. Alternatively, cook the rounds in a skillet on the stovetop; danhole even suggests making small ones on a plate in a microwave.

You can turn the crisps into edible cups or bowls in which to serve salad by removing them while warm and draping them over upturned glasses or muffin cups. For flavor variation, add cracked black pepper or herbs such as oregano or rosemary. Den likes to add a bit of dry rub for barbecue crisps.

Board Link: Parmesan crisps

Posted on Thursday, February 26th, 2009 by Caitlin McGrath in Home Cooking Digest | No Comments
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» Home Cooking Digest

Winning Ideas for Fresh Ricotta

Fresh ricotta cheese is wonderful stuff, nothing like the supermarket version. Here are some preparations that really highlight its flavor:

• Bruschetta rubbed with garlic and topped with ricotta, good olive oil, and sea salt
• Stirred into broccoli rabe that has been sautéed in oil and garlic (this can be served on its own, with pasta, or in a sandwich)
• Pasta with fresh ricotta and lots of fresh herbs, Parmesan, and fresh ground pepper
• Tagliatelle with smashed peas, sausage, and ricotta
• Gnudi Toscani, “naked ravioli” with spinach
• Paired with figs, pears, or with honey and nuts for dessert
• Mixed with orange or lemon zest, vanilla, and white or brown sugar (for dessert or breakfast)

Board Link: what to do with great ricotta

Posted on Thursday, February 26th, 2009 by Caitlin McGrath in Home Cooking Digest | No Comments
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» General Topics Digest

Hand-Pulled Noodles Are Worth the Effort

Do hand-pulled noodles make a difference to the noodle experience? “Absolutely,” says scoopG. “The homemade machine noodles will be OK but not as good nor as satisfying as the handmade ones.” The difference is in the time and attention the individual noodle maker devotes to the noodles, adjusting for temperature and humidity, adding water, oil, flour, or even lye water to the dough as needed.

“I’d also add on that putting noodles though a machine creates a different product because of the forced texture,” says pinstripeprincess. “Handmade/pulled noodles tend to have a rougher surface texture that I would say is better for flavor.” Miss Needle adores that bumpy exterior—it catches the sauces and seasonings better than smooth machine-made noodles.

The difference between hand-pulled noodles and machine-formed noodles, says ipsedixit, is “sort of like the difference between oatmeal made from oat groats versus oatmeal made from instant oatmeal mix. The former is chewy, dense, and hearty, while the latter is soft and (dare I say) even a bit mushy.”

Board Link: Difference in hand pulled vrs machine formed noodles?

Posted on Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 by Sarah Perry in General Topics Digest | No Comments
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» General Topics Digest

Canned Chili That’s Great for Dogs

A chili dog is not usually made with long-stewed homemade chili. If you’re working from a can, Chef-Mate is by far the best, says coll. You might be able to find it at a restaurant supply store. “That’s what all the hot dog trucks around here use on their chili dogs and it’s like homemade,” says coll.

monku likes a product that goes by the unappetizing name of Dolores Chili Brick. latindancer uses the chili brick too, and apparently it’s a lot better than its name.

Wolf Brand Chili is a Chowhound favorite. It’s “far and away the best canned chili,” says JonParker. “This Texas girl’s comfort food is blue box mac & cheese with Wolf Brand Chili,” says tallullah. “I miss that stuff … Hormel just isn’t the same.”

Board Link: Best Canned Chili For Chili Dogs?

Posted on Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 by Sarah Perry in General Topics Digest | 2 Comments
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» General Topics Digest

What is Ackee?

Ackee is a very unusual fruit of Caribbean origin. Served with saltfish, it makes an amazing breakfast, says Caralien. Even when you see it cooked, it’s hard to believe it’s a fruit. “I had no idea what ackee was when I ordered it, and was still confused when the plate arrived,” says Caralien. “They were as bright as egg yolks, shaped like monkfish foie (melting in my mouth in a similar fashion), and so decadent.”

kayEx grew up with ackee and loves it, but notes that most people cannot reconcile the fact of it being a fruit with its extremely unfruitlike taste, texture, and appearance. “A lot of people who try it don’t like the mouthfeel because it is much smoother than eggs and they can’t get the egg thought out of their heads,” says kayEx.

True ackee lovers, though, face a supply problem. It’s hard to find it fresh in the United States, especially since it was formerly illegal to import (unripe ackee may be toxic, says Caralien). You can sometimes find canned ackee in ethnic grocery stores, but be prepared to pay around $15 a can—definitely worth it, says kayEx. And if you’re really determined to get fresh ackee, says Caralien, you can buy a tree and grow it yourself.

Board Link: Ackee

Posted on Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 by Sarah Perry in General Topics Digest | 1 Comment
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» Boston Digest

Tea at the Library?

Hoping to have high tea to celebrate a birthday on a Friday, tennisboy had a hard time finding the right spot. Taj Boston and L’Espalier both serve their noted teas only on weekends, the teas at the Boston Athenaeum are only for members and invited guests, and tennisboy is unimpressed with the modernized options at other Boston hotels, saying a firm “Nay!” to places with stainless steel teapots instead of classic crockery.

limster suggests Swans Café at Park Plaza, a place tennisboy had spurned because of poor reviews. “The food is very average at PP,” says limster. “But I’ve had carefully brewed teas (temperature, water quality, etc.) there that aren’t so easily found in Boston. Among other things, I had a very high-quality scarlet robe from Wuyi mountains in Fujian that was grown very close to the original bushes, and a very well-aged pu-erh (15 years). If they’re still doing that, and if tea (rather than food) is a priority, it might be worth checking out.”

Ultimately, tennisboy happily chose Novel, the little eatery set incongruously in the Boston Public Library. “Having had afternoon tea all over the world … we are pretty picky when it comes to tea. The actual tea (Earl Grey) was very good, and the scones and accompaniments (cream, excellent raspberry jam, and lemon curd—in most places you usually get cream or curd, so having both was a bonus) were excellent,” says tennisboy. The sandwiches were not as fantastic (“Since when is a slice of cucumber with a mozzarella ball considered a sandwich?” asks tennisboy), and the sweets weren’t up to par. But for the atmosphere, the beauty of the setting, tea, and scones, tennisboy says he’d return.

High tea with sandwiches, fruit, and scones is $19.95; tea with scones is $10.

The Taj Boston [Back Bay]
15 Arlington Street, Boston
800-745-8883

L’Espalier [Back Bay]
774 Boylston Street, Boston
617-262-3023

Boston Athenaeum [Downtown]
10 1/2 Beacon Street, Boston
617-227-0270

Swans Café at Park Plaza [Downtown]
50 Park Plaza, Boston
617-426-2000

Novel [Back Bay]
700 Boylston Street, Boston
617-385-5660

Board Link: New Info on WEEKDAY Afternoon Tea in Boston

Posted on Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 by Joyce Slaton in Boston Digest | No Comments
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