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The Deepest Truck in LA

Antojitos de la Abuelita “is the most serious Mexican kitchen in the Valley, and one of the deepest trucks in LA,” says our resident Mexican-cuisine expert streetgourmetla. The owners are a family from Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl, just outside of Mexico City.

Abuelita looks a lot like a weekend mobile restaurant in Mexico City. The owners set up a tent and tables, and customers order at the truck then take their food and sit. There are the usual antojitos: huaraches, pambazos, sopes, as well as more esoteric filled masa snacks. Try the guisados (meat stews) delivered in grilled quesadillas. Other excellent fillings: outstanding huitlacoche (corn smut), flor de calabaza (squash blossom) with cheese, and mushrooms with cheese.

Abuelita also has excellent soups, with two real stars. The first is “a sublime menudo served in a genuine curbside setting,” says streetgourmetla. And the second is caldo de gallina (chicken soup), the most common streetside soup served in Mexico City, but one that is incredibly hard to find in Los Angeles.

Other orders: the most satisfying tlayuda in town: huge, pizza-like, and crisp, with real, full-tasting meats. And tacos: “The cooking of meats here are deft in flavor and texture. On weekends they do barbacoa cooked in maguey spines, moist and elegant flavors of mutton,” says streetgourmetla.

The truck shows up Wednesdays through Friday from around 5 p.m. until 9 p.m., and 
Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Antojitos de la Abuelita [San Fernando Valley - East]
6135 Vineland Avenue, North Hollywood
No phone available

Board Link: Antojitos de la Abuelita: Straight Outta Neza

Veggie-Friendly Mexican Food

Los Chilangos is a new place specializing in the antojitos of Mexico City: huaraches (sandal-shaped stuffed masa dough), quesadillas (cheese-filled fried tortillas), tlacoyos (small, oval, stuffed huaraches). There’s also the heart-stopping alambre: carne asada, ham, bacon, onions, and red pepper griddled together and topped with melted cheese.

The pambozas (rolls dipped in chile sauce and griddled) are beautiful. They’re “surprisingly light, like a chile-head’s twisted idea of French toast, with a nice spread of beans, potato, and chorizo,” says Das Ubergeek.

Los Chilangos makes great nopales, too. “It takes talent to cook nopales, because they ooze like okra, and you run the risk of serving a pile of green snot to your guests,” explains Das Ubergeek. They work very well in a huarache with al pastor.

Los Chilangos [Orange County]
1830 West Lincoln Avenue, Anaheim
714-999-5515

Board Link: REVIEW: Los Chilangos, Anaheim

Like a Hybrid Pecan-Mincemeat Pie

Avanti has exceptional baked goods, according to one hound’s report. “This place rocks,” says meltedcheese. “Their cookies, pies, date bars, and tapiocas are more SF than OC and it’s appreciated.”

The best thing there, especially right now, is the raisin walnut pie. It’s like a mincemeat pie crossed with a pecan pie, and it’s incredibly good. “If you bought a whole one and put some fresh whipped cream on it you would be the king of a party,” says meltedcheese.

Avanti Cafe [Orange County]
259 E. 17th Street, Costa Mesa
949-548-2224

Board Link: Walnut Raisin pie at Avanti today… amazing OC Costa Mesa

Overheard on the Los Angeles Boards

“This is a common confusion in LA, which just doesn’t get the burrito.”
-a_and_w

“A few summers ago, Bouchon Yountville’s moule frites set the benchmark … Bouchon BevHills delivered huge with the iron boat full of cooked mussels and garlic confit. This time around, I paid attention to every bite and what popped out was the slightly sour garlic confit.”
-TonyC

“Figueroa Produce In Highland Park is now stocking grass-fed free range beef from Open Space Meats. We had a rib eye last week and it was excellent.”
-PurpleTeeth

Back Home in Harlem, Chicken Without Peer

Charles Gabriel, the wandering soul food master, is back in business in Harlem. His celebrated restaurant Southern Style Kitchen closed last year, then reopened a month ago as Charles’ Pan-Fried Chicken. bussy26 says it’s as good as ever. The signature skillet-fried chicken is beautifully seasoned and cooked to an impeccable crispness. “Absolutely delicious,” bussy says.

The rest of the cafeteria-style spread also delivers. Winners include sweet, meltingly tender barbecued pork ribs and some don’t-miss sides: mac ’n’ cheese, greens with just enough pork and salt, and show-stopping yams (“pure unadulterated delicious sugar”). This is “great stuff,” adds bussy, who confesses to indulging in “too many returns to the buffet line to count.”

Charles’ Pan-Fried Chicken [Harlem]
2837 Eighth Avenue (near 151st Street), Manhattan
212-281-1800

Board Link: Charles Fried Chicken-Welcome Back!

Mexican Sandwiches and Other Bites

Carmelita in Sunset Park is the latest grocery-plus-taqueria to appear on hound radar. At the back of the shop, a tiny kitchen turns out a superior chorizo torta, among other things. DistrictSelectman loves the $1.50 tacos with authentic fixings: a sprinkling of onion and cilantro, grilled cebollitas, radishes, pickled jalapeños, and standout condiments like smoky salsa rojo and salsa verde, chunky with avocado. “The food is terrific and cheap, and sinfully good,” he says.

Not far away is Los Tres Potrillos, Barry Strugatz’s go-to spot for an amazing lengua torta. And Cholulita, a bodega-with-kitchen in Bushwick, comes through with a “very respectable” longaniza cemita, says ftgsandwich.

In Queens, Chowhound champ Taqueria Coatzingo continues to blow away fans with its milanesa de res, a fried cutlet in a torta or a cemita: “That sandwich is boss,” bigjeff declares, easily enough to feed two. For one, he adds, it’s “a punch in the gut,” and that’s a good thing, as long as “you like your gut punched with two kinds of cheeses, breaded fried steak and multiple kinds of peppers.”

A few blocks away, Tia Julia serves up E Eto’s favorite cemitas, from its truck or its newer restaurant. Jeffsayyes says its milanesa de pollo cemita is both excellent and uncommonly large at seven or eight inches across, but gives the nod to Coatzingo for flavor.

Carmelita [Sunset Park]
780 Fourth Avenue (between 26th and 27th streets), Brooklyn
No phone available

Los Tres Potrillos [Sunset Park]
1004 Fourth Avenue (at 39th Street), Brooklyn
718-788-8484

Cholulita [Bushwick]
888 Broadway (between Belvidere Street and Arion Place), Brooklyn
347-435-0813

Taqueria Coatzingo [Jackson Heights]
76-05 Roosevelt Avenue (near 76th Street), Queens
718-424-1977

Tia Julia [Woodside]
91st Street & Roosevelt Avenue, Queens
917-757-1633

Tia Julia [Woodside]
68-06 Roosevelt Avenue (near 68th Street), Queens
718-205-6482

Board Links: Unsung Mexican food in north Sunset Park
Best Torta?

One Whole Hog, Disassembly Not Required

Jim McDuffee, the chef at Joseph Leonard, takes apart a whole pig every Sunday to produce a weekly procession of snout-to-tail dishes. The highlight of wew’s recent dinner was a delicate terrine, served with greens and a bit of mustard. Pulled pork with gnocchi was another winner, garlicky and robust. Pot-au-feu was a feast of rib, sausage, and braised pork in peppery, deeply flavorful broth, marred only by excess salt. Pork belly gumbo “was a pass,” wew adds, “as was any thought of a sweet after all that.”

Joseph Leonard [Greenwich Village]
170 Waverly Place (at Grove Street), Manhattan
646-429-8383

Board Link: Joseph Leonard’s Sunday night pig dinner

Overheard on the New York Boards

“The walls virtually spill out with pastries that appear to be teetering on countertops that might, at any moment, topple over and kill you with sweetness.”
-howyoudoin80

“Pelmeni are awesome if the filling is good. Lot of places use cheap meat and it tastes like bad Chinese dumplings. Same idea—and it’s where we got it in the first place.”
-placeholder

“Whenever Vinny took your dinner order he always said ‘eat, drink and order whatever you like, there’s no charge.’ He would pause for a few seconds and then say, ‘only cash,’ and then he would laugh loudly.”
-Victoria060

Bring a French Chef into Your Home

The house-made smoked sausage at La Bedaine, a French place selling its own charcuterie and ready-made French dinners to take home, already has its own fan club.

“It is succulent, smoky, pure goodness,” says rworange. “They were the smokiest I’ve ever had except for some that a friend hand-carries back from Louisiana,” confirms Robert Lauriston. “Massive flavor for such a small quantity.”

The pork rillettes are also fantastic, says abstractpoet: “less salty than, and at least as good as, Fatted Calf’s—at a significantly lower price.” A portion is $4. The smoked halibut has exquisite texture, adds rworange. “Anyone with a passion for smoked whitefish will drop to their knees in reverence for this.

“Wild boar terrine is wonderful,” says nicedragonboy, and makes a good sandwich. noahj appreciates the pork terrine sandwich, especially for just $6.

As for the Cryovac-ed take-home meals, abstractpoet enjoyed the hearty cassoulet, with generous pieces of beef, sausage, and what may have been duck leg. The smoked halibut dinner was also very good. To cook them at home, you pop them into a pot of boiling water, turn off the heat, and let sit 10 minutes.

A chocolate tart is lovely and fudgy in a crisp crust, but the croissants are on the bready side. The chef apparently used to cook at Le Charm, which bodes well for the duck dishes, says ernie in berkeley. And take note: These prices are too low to last, Robert Lauriston says.

La Bedaine [East Bay]
1585 Solano Avenue, Berkeley
510-559-2201

Board Links: Albany: La Bedaine Cuisine de l’atelier?
Berkeley: La Bedaine—Reasonably-priced French pastries, house-made smoked sausages, pates and French dinners to go

Barbecue’s Second Coming

Taste of Joy Barbecue & Southern Bistro, a barbecue joint that opened earlier this year to good reviews on the boards despite its restricted hours, has reopened in a new location, abstractpoet reports.

Everything about the new location is better: bigger and nicer digs, longer hours, and a full bar (check out the “Southern sangria”) with wine and several beers on tap. Out back, there’s a fully equipped kitchen and a more extensive staff, so the menu has grown to include things like fried chicken wings and waffles, and fried catfish. But the brisket is as good as ever, in ToJ’s own style: thinly sliced, with a sweet sauce. Only difference is it’s plated more prettily now. And the gumbo is excellent, chock-full of sausage, chicken, shrimp, and crab. Better than Angeline’s, abstractpoet says. An old favorite, Cajun meatloaf, is still on the menu. Prices are a bit higher now, but still only marginally more expensive than Nellie’s, and it’s better than that.

Speaking of barbecue, a meal at Da Pitt was “the first time in San Francisco I’d finally felt like I was in back in Memphis,” says vulber (who was disappointed by “bland overpriced barbecue and terrible sweet tea” at Memphis Minnie’s). Da Pitt is Louisiana-style ’cue, but the brisket is “delicious, tender and flavorful,” with an incredible sauce, vulber says.

Da Pitt has replaced Lilly’s (and the former Brother-in-Law’s), and apparently has a common history with both places. The menu is basic: brisket, chicken, hot links, short ribs, and pork ribs, all available in full or (very generous) half portions. The sides, unfortunately, are fairly weak: The beans taste like they came out of a can, the house-made coleslaw tastes distinctly weird, and some have specifically warned against the mac ’n’ cheese. There’s no ambience, of course, and hardly any seating although there’s a big parking lot. But the smoker is going full blast.

Taste of Joy Barbecue & Southern Bistro [East Bay]
3909 Grand Avenue, Oakland
510-891-1443

Da Pitt [Western Addition]
705 Divisadero Street, San Francisco
415-440-7427

Board Links: Taste of Joy re-opened on Grand Ave: BBQ, gumbo, chicken and waffles, and more
So refreshing to learn that SF has authentic barbecue that doesn’t suck

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