Digest

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Chop Bar: For the Loca-Carnivore

The new Chop Bar in Oakland’s Jack London Square looks to be a major neighborhood hangout, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week, Robert Lauriston says. Formerly the site of Mono, the new owners have opened up the space and added semi-outdoor seating. The vibe is more luxe hipster hangout than gastropub, says daveena, with lots of reclaimed wood and a stone floor.

The largely locavore menu goes from snacks to big plates, with the main courses in the $12 to $15 range. No word yet on the bizarre (or brilliant?) bacon, garlic, and Parmesan popcorn starter, but the place does well with meats, whether it’s the house-made grilled tri-tip, Fatted Calf charcuterie, or Robert Lauriston’s fave, Colonel Bill Newsom’s “amazing” Kentucky ham. “Looks like prosciutto, taste and texture similar to Iberico but smoky,” he sums up.

“They have some of the best sandwiches I’ve ever tasted,” daveena raves. The grilled tri-tip panino with roasted pasilla peppers, grilled vegetable mojo, and queso ranchero is a creation of “smoky, flavorful meat that melded beautifully with the other components.” The menu is all over the place—reportedly there are two chefs on staff—but daveena says, “I feel pretty confident that anything with grilled or roasted meat should be good.”

abstractpoet agrees that “their roasted pig on flatbread, with a kick-ass condiment spread, was the best thing I tried at the recent Eat Real Festival.” It’s not on the regular menu yet, but worth keeping an eye out for. At a recent dinner, abstractpoet liked the Louisiana shrimp a la diablo, good-sized shrimp with great flavor and nice char. The heat level, on the other hand, wasn’t very devilish–more like the first circle of purgatory. Pork ribs slow-cooked in apple cider have a bit of chew, but in a nice way, and that cider sauce is supertasty. Green beans with capers and garlic are a decent side. Mexican chocolate pudding, on the other hand, is lick-the-bowl good.

A notable feature of the restaurant is its cutting-edge wine-on-tap system, which keeps prices down on wine by the glass. Robert Lauriston tried all five and pronounced them good values. (abstractpoet’s red Rhône blend was $6.) He also approved of the four local beers on tap.

Grubbjunkie, however, was underwhelmed by the Kentucky ham-and-cheese panino—it’s tasty, but basic. “And the side green salad was sort of a sad joke,” just “four small pieces of lettuce with a few diced tomatoes in a very salty vinaigrette.” Still, with Chop Bar’s cool space and friendly service, Grubbjunkie is prepared to give it another shot.

Chop Bar [East Bay]
247 Fourth St. #111, Oakland
510-834-2467

Board Links: Chop Bar–Oakland
Chop Bar in Oakland: recommendations?
Fifth time lucky: returning to the Bay Area for more food’n’fun

Best-in-Class Pastries

“Let me propose that Shaadzee’s napoleons are the very best in this universe,” says A.Blinken. “The puff pastry was of an unsurpassed lightness and flakiness and the cream filling was more than ample and just sweet enough.” There are some attractive cannoli as well, two kinds in two sizes, but the coffee “seemed to have lost its will to compete, owing to the Peet’s right across the street.”

Meanwhile, the bold but simply designed chocolate cupcakes at the new Cako Bakery deliver a flavor punch, Pei says. There are at least 10 flavors, plus cookies and coffee cake, but the chocolate cake “balances flavor intensity with fluffiness.” The delicious chocolate frosting might get a ding from purists for falling slightly short of perfect silkiness, though.

Melanie Wong is a fan of the macarons at Feel Good Bakery in Alameda for the “silky, well-flavored buttercream.” The seasonal spicy pumpkin one also features a chewy cookie texture and light spicing. Even better is the pumcho bread, “an oversize pumpkin muffin studded generously with chunks of very good bittersweet chocolate.” It’s also seasonally appropriate, but available all year.

Shaadzee Bakery Bistro [East Bay]
60 Crescent Drive, Pleasant Hill
925-687-8200

Cako Bakery [Union Square]
211 O’Farrell Street, San Francisco
415-404-7303

Feel Good Bakery [East Bay]
1650 Park Street, Alameda
510-864-2733

Board Links: Napoleons to Die For
Cako Report
Spicy Pumpkin Macaron & Pumcho @ Feel Good Bakery in Alameda

All-in-One Breakfast Delight

The maple bacon breakfast bun at Ironside, a welcome addition to SOMA, is like everything good about breakfast rolled up into one. bobpantzer was a skeptic about the sweet plus savory, but found it delicious.

lovebitessf also enjoyed the regular breakfast bun and the breakfast empanada. At lunch, the pressed Cubano sandwich is “fantastic,” and the pulled chicken “delicious.” The Ironside pizza is unusual and tasty, with arugula, olives, white anchovies, sausage, pepperoni, and mozzarella. They also have a wild boar sausage pizza and a ratatouille pizza. A butternut squash soup with cauliflower, honey crème fraîche, and toasted hazelnut is very nice.

They do happy hour weekdays from 3 to 6 p.m., with pizza and pitchers of beer, as well as dinner.

Ironside [SOMA]
680 Second Street, San Francisco
415-896-1127

Board Link: Ironside

Hearty Pasta e Fagioli for Cool Weather

Pasta e fagioli, Italian pasta and bean soup, is a nourishing dish. “What a healthy, hearty, and delicious soup for the fall and winter,” says SaraASR.

smtucker praises Mario Batali’s recipe, which begins with sautéing onion and parsley. “Cooking the parsley for a full 10 minutes was a test of faith the first time I made it,” says smtucker, adding, “But what an amazing amount of flavor.” If the soup is refrigerated, the pasta absorbs the broth and becomes soggy; add pasta only to the amount that will be eaten immediately.

lexpatti likes to purée a cup of broth and beans and return it to the pot before adding the pasta. “Makes it a bit creamy,” she says. cassoulady recommends adding a Parmesan rind to enhance the soup’s flavor. Cheese Boy suggests adding a small pat of lightly salted butter or a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil to each bowl after serving, saying, “Your pasta e fagioli will suddenly become memorable then because these two lastly added ingredients will put it over the top.”

roxlet makes a nonsoupy pasta e fagioli without tomatoes. She adds cooked pasta to olive oil, beans, garlic, parsley, salt, and red pepper flakes, adding pasta cooking water and tossing with Pecorino Romano. Andrew_Cookbooker likes this version, with spinach, carrot, and potato.

Board Link: Pasta Fagioli

Squash for Dessert

There is more than pumpkin pie when it comes to winter squash desserts. Butternut, acorn, and kabocha squash all translate easily into sweets.

chocoabot likes this citrus squash tart because its flavor is different than the typical warm spices paired with pumpkin. jsaimd loves kabocha squash cheesecake with walnut crust from Pichet Ong (P*ong).

“Squash slices layer up wonderfully with apples in a baked crisp,” says 4Snisl, who uses equal amounts of each. paulj recommends Ecuadoran dulce de zapallo, squash poached in a spiced brown sugar syrup, which is often paired with fresh cheese.

Board Link: Squash-y Dessert??

Pesto Without Pine Nuts

While pine nuts are most often called for in basil pesto, Chowhounds use a variety of nuts and herbs in pestos.

Hounds are split in preferring pine nuts or walnuts in their basil pesto, though a few use almonds. ZagChef uses roasted macadamias (he adds only half the amount of nuts called for), and TroyTempest has enjoyed it with pistachios. rozz01 makes a pesto of Italian parsley, cilantro, and cashews that her guests love, and hotoynoodle likes walnuts in parsley pesto.

Pesto freezes well, and is handy portioned in small containers or frozen in an ice cube tray, with the frozen cubes then stored in a freezer bag. Hounds recommend brushing or spraying the ice cube tray with oil before filling to help with release of the frozen pesto.

Board Link: pesto pine nuts or walnuts?

Complicated Does Not Equal Better

“Over and over again, I prove to myself that more time spent in the planning and preparation of a meal does not necessarily make for a more delicious, more enjoyable, more exquisite meal,” says CindyJ. Call it the law of diminishing culinary returns. Great effort does not necessarily yield great food, and sometimes the most memorable food is a great ingredient in a simple presentation.

“The general rule is that the higher the quality of the ingredients, the less you need to do with them,” says Ellen. Good-quality fresh food—dry-aged, organic grass-fed beef; farmers’ market veggies; fresh local butter—needs little intervention or extensive preparation to shine, she says. “On the other hand, I once spent hours making a classic beef Wellington that was beautiful but such a yawn compared to the effort.”

shaogo agrees. “The more complicated (I say ‘convoluted’) my plans for dinner become, I guarantee you the ‘wow’ effect of a dish (or of the whole meal) diminishes,” he says. “Like others who’ve posted here, some of my best ‘home-run’ dinners were created à la minute from a short list of simple ingredients.”

Board Link: The Laws of Diminishing (Culinary) Returns

How’s the Hospital Food?

greygarious was recently, uh, privileged to sample his local hospital food—and his Chowhound sensibilities were scarred for life. “I ordered a side salad [and] it was a tiny bowl with perhaps a half cup of lettuce and a slice each of cucumber and tomato,” he says. “I could understand small servings of the less healthy items but you’d think they’d size in such a way as to promote the healthier foods.”

Pei finds the same to be true of her local hospitals. Expect such delights as “chicken broth that tastes like it was made from powder, gummy oatmeal, ultra-pasteurized juice and Jell-O that taste like they’ve been cooked to death and yet are still chock full of chemicals, bleh,” says Pei. “I feel sad just thinking about it.” taos was served “Jell-O (essentially sugar water), super salty chicken broth, white toast, and tons of butter”—on a cardiac ward, no less.

There is a trend, however, toward hospitals providing tasty food that might be healthy enough not to undermine their healthcare mission. shaogo has had experience with good, made-from-scratch food at a hospital, which contributed to patients gaining much-needed weight. Pia has also had a great experience with hospital food: “delicious salad with spinach and strawberries, and really good cheesecake” were among her selections. This is a hot trend. “Hospital food-service operations all over the country are starting to serve very good quality food,” says shaogo. “It’s in all of the industry magazines. Slowly but surely, the days when hospital entrees were flavorless rubber, and hospital veggies were sulfurous gray gack, are ending.”

Board Link: How is the hospital food where you live?

Mexican Oregano Is Not from Mexico

Some recipes call for Mexican oregano. Does that just mean oregano produced in Mexico? Nope, says MazDee. “Since I live in Mexico, and buy oregano here, I always figured it WAS Mexican oregano,” she says. But while traveling she noticed Mexican oregano plants for sale that had big leaves and didn’t resemble the more commonly used Greek oregano. “I am astounded!” she says. In fact, so-called Mexican oregano is a close relative of lemon verbena.

Mexican and Greek oregano are different plants, but both are lovely for their appropriate uses. “I use both Greek and Mexican oregano for different recipes,” says bushwickgirl.

Board Link: Mexican Oregano

In Praise of Pork Fat

Lard is prized for pie crusts, refried beans, and baked goods, but the white bricks of goo sold as lard in the supermarket are “partially or fully hydrogenated, making it much much worse for you than real, natural lard,” says celeriac. “The hydrogenated bricks are not good lard,” agrees Karl S. Where to find the real thing: rich, luscious leaf lard?

Lionette’s has a couple of quarts a week, according to BarmyFotheringayPhipps. Formaggio is a slightly more reliable source, but call ahead and make sure they have it. “I always have some of their lard on hand in the freezer for pie crusts, etc. Keeps great,” says gansu girl. Pete and Jen’s Backyard Birds usually has lard described as “beautiful” by several hounds; it’s $6 a pint.

If you have the time and wherewithal, you can also render your own lard from pork fat purchased from the supermarket. Karl S outlines the procedure: “All it takes is a few minutes of chopping, and a couple of hours of simmering to render, then straining, mixing strained fat with some water (to capture impurities along the meniscus between the water and the chilled fat) and refrigerating and then cutting off the clean part of the solid chilled fat from the rest.” Oh, is that all?

For more info on rendering or purchasing lard, see these Digest posts:
Making Lard
The Joy of Pure Lard

And for a step-by-step guide, see Daniel Duane’s method for rendering lard on CHOW.

Lionette’s Market [South End]
537 Tremont Street, Boston
617-778-0360

Formaggio Kitchen [Cambridge]
244 Huron Avenue, Cambridge
617-354-4570

Pete and Jen’s Backyard Birds [MetroWest]
159 Wheeler Road, Concord
978-318-0063

Board Link: Where to buy lard?

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