Digest

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A Filipino Discovery on Staten Island

There’s Tagalog in the air at Dampa Grill, an inviting new Filipino place on Staten Island, Flaco says. Good bets include chicken adobo, bangus (milkfish), and grilled pork belly. If short ribs are on the steam table, he adds, get them. “Definitely interesting, very good, and cheap,” agrees desantmj.

Newbies to Pinoy chow, take note: The chef-owner is an engaging young guy who’s happy to explain the cuisine.

Dampa Grill [Staten Island]
556 Tompkins Avenue (near Clifton Avenue), Staten Island
718-981-8934

Board Link: Dampa Grill Staten Island

Kee’s Springs a Cupcake Surprise

Kee’s, a Chowhound favorite for Asian-accented chocolate truffles, has added cupcakes to the mix. Like the candies, they surprise and delight with unexpected flavors, kathryn writes.

Neither gigantic (like Sage’s) nor loaded with frosting (like Magnolia’s), these cupcakes are of reasonable size, kathryn reports, and they’re chiefly about the cake: “The frosting doesn’t stand out at all, in taste or proportion. But the cake part is great. Light, not too sweet, fluffy, not dry.” Standouts among the cake flavors, she adds, are rose, juniper, and Earl Grey (“delicious, comforting, addictive, a really subtle flavor that grew on me”); others include jasmine, sesame, and peach-ginger.

Kee’s Chocolates [SoHo]
80 Thompson Street (between Spring and Broome streets), Manhattan
212-334-3284

Board Link: Cupcakes at Kee’s Chocolates

Bacon Meets Ice Cream at Applewood

Bacon ice cream … well, why not? It has turned up recently at Applewood, served alongside a deconstructed apple crisp, and Peter is sold.

“For those who drool at the thought of bacon ice cream,” he says, “it was all that you’d want. Lots of applewood smoked bacon flavor that was perfectly balanced with the creaminess of the ice cream.” It probably won’t be on the menu forever, Peter adds, so call ahead if you’re set on trying it.

Applewood [Park Slope]
501 11th Street (near Seventh Avenue), Brooklyn
718-768-2044

Board Link: Bacon Ice Cream Alert!

A Constant for Long Island Curry-Lovers

Restaurants everywhere rise and fall, but nowhere does the cycle play out faster than on Nassau County’s Indian scene, which Jim Leff calls “the fastest-changing I’ve seen.” Yet hounds say one constant in recent years has been Heritage of India in New Hyde Park.

This place is “the class act right now,” says Jim, who singles out tender, aromatic murgh achari kebab (chicken marinated in pickles and yogurt then barbecued). Also recommended: onion kulcha and an intense, if bony, goat dopiaza (cooked with onion, tomato, garlic, and cilantro). stuartlafonda finds the food reliably tasty and the owner savvy and hospitable.

Heritage of India [Nassau County]
2024 Hillside Avenue (near Aster Drive), New Hyde Park, NY
516-352-9305

Board Link: Heritage of India (New Hyde Park)

Berkeley Italian Branches Out

The people behind the ever-popular Rivoli have opened a more casual offshoot, Corso, featuring pizza, pasta, and small plates. Florentine dishes also are a specialty, reports the San Francisco Chronicle.

The place reminds Robert Lauriston of Rose Pistola just after it opened and Reed Hearon was in the kitchen: simple, great flavors, and very Italian. (Corso’s chef is Elaine Rivera, who spent many years at Oliveto.)

Acquacotta, a minestronelike soup topped with toast and a soft-cooked egg, and the cauliflower sformatino, a custard with intense cauliflower flavor, are both “great” reports Robert Lauriston.

bigchowfun tried the pizza funghi (“crisp, charred crust, very flavorful, with a touch of truffle oil”), pasta with sugo (“luscious slow-cooked pork/beef”), and bollito with salsa verde (“melt-in-your-mouth beef”).

And the dessert of caramelized pear with vin santo sauce and whipped cream is “heavenly,” says bigchowfun, who adds that the wine list is “totally Italian but reasonably priced.”

The small plates, such as spinach with garlic and chile, and creamy fagioli beans, went down well with megek, who also likes having the option of ordering wine in half glasses and half carafes.

Layout-wise, the restaurant has an open kitchen with a counter, a bar area, and a large, communal table, which could prove useful, since Corso doesn’t take reservations, notes bigchowfun.

Corso [East Bay]
1786 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley
510-704-8004

Board Links: Corso (Berkeley)
rivoli on shattuck?

Two New Indian Restaurants in SF

San Francisco dosa-lovers, take note: Udupi Palace has opened on Valencia Street. The rava masala dosa is nice and crisp, says nuttie_cat, while the mysore masala dosa has a layer of tangy chutney inside. The potato fillings in both are tasty, if not quite spicy enough.

The vada was also nice and crisp, continues nuttie_cat, but the idly was a bit dry. Still, based on an excellent spinach masala dosa, jpancake gives this location the edge over the small chain’s Berkeley branch, and says it’s a welcome addition to San Francisco given the “bland and overpriced” food on offer at nearby Dosa, which also specializes in South Indian cuisine.

Prices at this Udupi Palace seem about a dollar higher than the one in Sunnyvale, reports nuttie_cat, with dosas mostly $7.75, uthappams $6.75, and combos of dosa or uthappam with idly and vada $9.75.

It’s clean, and folks are friendly, according to nuttie_cat, but the hours are a little, well, unpredictable in these early days, says jpancake.

Also new in town is Kasa in the Castro, reports osho. It specializes in the kati roll, a sort of Indian burrito (also known as a frankie), and fillings include lamb curry, aloo jeera (sautéed cumin potatoes), or chicken tikka, all wrapped in a flaky roti.

The grass-fed lamb is outstanding, says osho, and the curry sauce is great on its own for dipping. The chicken tikka, however, was a bit dry and underspiced. On the side you get a mixed salad and some raita. Two rolls cost $8.95.

Udupi Palace [Mission District]
1007 Valencia Street, San Francisco
415-970-8000

Kasa Indian Eatery [Castro]
4001 18th Street, San Francisco

415-621-6940

Board Links: Udupi Palace SF open
SF–Kasa Indian–Castro

San Jose’s Saigon Seafood

Its name may be Saigon Seafood, or Nha Hang, or perhaps even Saigon Vien Dong. But, whatever it’s called, hounds say this San Jose joint serves up good, fresh Vietnamese food, like goi sua tom thit, an herb-laced salad of pork, prawns, and jellyfish. The contrast of pork ear and skin with the jellyfish is fantastic, says The Ranger.

Also recommended: sizzling goat, sizzling fish (though on one occasion this wasn’t sizzling and arrived on a cold plate instead), dry nam vang rice noodle soup, and baby clams with special spices. There are plenty of herbs and dipping sauces, plus matchsticks of galangal for what markseiden calls “that indispensable hint of menthol.”

RWCFoodie also recommends you keep an eye out for the fruit vendor on the sidewalk just outside, selling fresh mangosteens, jackfruit, Manila mangoes, litchis, and the like.

Saigon Seafood [South Bay]
740 Story Road #1, San Jose
408-298-8488

Board Link: Lunch at Nha Hang Saigon Seafood Restaurant aka Saigon Vien Dong–San Jose

Spicy Street-Style Korean Chicken

Twice-cooked spicy chicken is a street food hannaone enjoyed many years ago in Korea, and he re-created the dish for a restaurant he owned. Chicken thighs are marinated, then grilled, sliced, and stir-fried with some of the marinade. The marinade contains lots of hot Korean chili powder (kochugaru) or chile flakes, but hannaone says you can substitute milder fresh peppers if you want a less spicy dish.

andrewm tried the recipe and says it is fabulous. He cut back the chile a bit, and says: “It wasn’t super fiery, just delicious.”

Board Link: Time for Korean Grilling

Arugula Is Hot, Hot, Hot

Chowhounds love arugula in much more than just salads.

JungMann likes it sautéed with garlic, butter, and tomatoes and plenty of Parmesan as a quick condiment for pasta, while cassoulady melts Gorgonzola with butter and tosses this with pasta and arugula. And several hounds recommend making arugula pesto—here’s a CHOW recipe for Pasta with Arugula Pesto.

It’s also popular on various pizzas, fresh out of the oven: westaust tops thin-crust pizza with arugula and a drizzle of hot pepper or herbed oil, and LNG212 dresses arugula with lemon and olive oil to top a wild mushroom and Gruyère pizza.

Analisas mom uses arugula in cream soup, soufflé, risotto, quiche, and stuffed mushrooms.

Finally, roxlet dresses it with lemon juice and olive oil and then puts charcoal-grilled steak on top: “The juices from the meat mix with the lemony dressing and then you sop up the whole delicious mess with a nice piece of crusty bread.”

Board Link: too much arugula

New Ideas for Old Bay Seasoning

Old Bay Seasoning is popular with seafood, but Chowhounds love it with lots of other foods, too.

Hal Laurent likes it on corn on the cob instead of salt and pepper. meatn3 says it’s great in tomato-based vegetable soups. dct adds a teaspoon or so to chicken hash to round out the flavors and add some zip. And amethiste makes a cocktail sauce with ketchup, hot sauce, apple cider vinegar, and Old Bay.

greygarious likes it in egg salad, and uses it in place of salt and pepper in flour for dredging. It’s also one of the things she reaches for when cooking a stew or soup that seems to need a little more complexity.

And Val loves CHOW’s recipe for Tuna Noodle Casserole, which is seasoned with Old Bay.

Board Link: Baltimore Old Bay Uses

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