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From Flushing’s Food Courts, Fresh Chinese Bites

Chowhounds were disappointed when Flushing’s J&L Mall went belly up early this year. With J&L gone, Main Street’s liveliest Chinese chow scene is now at Golden Mall, at the corner of 41st Road. And the hottest hound destination among this venue’s food stalls is a Szechuan place in the basement called Chengdu Tian Fu, or Chengdu Heaven.

Brian S recommends pork intestine with chile and the flavorful double-cooked pork (“The Platonic ideal of a dish that is all too often lackluster”). Other hounds endorse fish with bean curd, “fish flavored” pork belly, and mapo dofu (“leagues above Little Pepper,” swears JFores, “and I love Little Pepper’s”). Like many food court eateries, this one has no English menu, but photos and translations may help guide the Chinese-challenged.

Another Golden Mall vendor Brian S raves about, Xian Ming Zhi (Xian Famous Eats), offers cumin-seasoned lamb with green peppers and broad, chewy noodles in a red broth that delivers a “rich, very unusual and totally unidentifiable flavor.” Xian Ming Zhi lacks an English menu, but it does have color photos of the dishes and a friendly proprietor.

Closest to the building’s 41st Road entrance is a bustling operation where a crew of women turns out northern-style pork-and-chive dumplings, served boiled or in soup or sold frozen by the sack. They’re some of the best in town, promises Joe MacBu.

Golden Mall [Flushing]
41-28 Main Street (at 41st Road), Flushing, Queens
Location

Board Links: J&L Mall shuttered again (?) - Mandarin translation needed
Xi’an Restaurant -- in a tiny basement food stall, a taste of western China
Chengdu Heaven -- the best Sichuan food in a tiny basement stall at the 41-28 Main St Mall, Flushing
Floor plan of Flushing food court located on Main St between Maple and Sanford (L&N)

Real Good Soup in the Essex Street Market

Paradou Marché makes first-rate soups, says tablehopr. A recent winner from this little lunch spot in the Essex Street Market was hearty, satisfying turkey and white bean—“a real soup,” tablehopr marvels, “and not one of these trendy, boring purees that has the consistency of baby food!”

Paradou Marché [Lower East Side]
In Essex Street Market
120 Essex Street (between Rivington and Delancey), Manhattan
917-348-1210
Location

Board Link: Soup’s On!!

French by Way of Africa in Carroll Gardens

The owners of Bouillabaisse 126 switched things up in fall, renaming their restaurant Korhogo 126 and replacing its French menu with an African-inspired one. Many hounds approve.

“When you walk into the restaurant, the aromas are wonderful, a good sign. The food did not disappoint,” writes soupcommie, who found fresh seafood and sauces layered with flavor. Vegetable mafe au soumbala, a peanut stew with okra and eggplant, hits the mark, perstephanie says, and is served over a nice quinoa pilaf. Grilled prawns (pili pili) are plump, juicy, and nicely spiced, bobjbkln reports. And David B recommends steak tartare and scallops.

Korhogo [Carroll Gardens]
126 Union Street (between Columbia and Hicks streets), Brooklyn
718-855-4405
Location

Board Links: Korhogo 126
Korhogo 126
Korhogo

Superior Fried Fish from the Captain

A Caribbean takeout spot called Captain Fish ’n’ Chip turns out the best fried fish in its corner of Long Island, cnut reports. The people’s choice appears to be whiting, “ultra-cheap and ultra-fresh.” Or, for under $6, try a sandwich of flounder or catfish—two generous fillets in white bread, which you may spike with hot sauce or jerk sauce. Beyond the fryer, cnut adds, expect good curries served with hit-or-miss rotis.

Captain Fish ’n’ Chip [Suffolk County]
1340 Straight Path, Wyandanch, NY
631-253-9333
Location

Board Link: Captain Fish ’N’ Chip/Caribbean Soul, Wyandanch, NY

A Turkish Turnaround in Centereach

Istanbul Café in Centereach changed hands late last year and is much improved, cnut writes. Especially good at this Turkish restaurant are izgara kofte (grilled ground-meat patties), wrapped in fresh flatbread. Unfortunately, they come without sauce; ask for cacik (yogurt-cucumber dip) on the side, cnut advises.

Overall, he adds, this place bests a couple of nearby Turkish standouts, Konak in Farmingville and Angora in Medford.

Istanbul Café [Suffolk County]
2139 Middle Country Road (near Pleasant Avenue), Centereach, NY
631-738-6704
Location

Board Link: Istanbul Cafe, Centereach, LI

Jagged, Thick Noodles

david kaplan likes jagged, thick, knife-cut noodles. The handmade noodles at ASJ are everything he’d hoped for: “firm, rough, and a little unwieldy.” These are big noodles, wide and flat, and their floppiness will fling soup broth pretty much everywhere, he warns. “I made a point of wearing a water-resistant coat, zipped up, over my white stainable shirt.”

Noodles like these are easier to eat when they’re stir-fried, says daveena, but she adds, “I think the amount of flavor they pick up from absorbing the soup makes them totally worth the trouble.” She has also “developed the most unattractive hunch to eat these types of soup noodles—mouth right over the bowl, with one hand blocking spatters.”

According to david kaplan, ASJ’s hot and spicy beef noodle soup has “modest spice-heat and strong numbing-heat from Sichuan peppercorns, but the beefiness of the broth stood up to the heat. The beef itself was long-stewed, nicely marbled, and melting like the best short ribs, in big slabs that stayed intact despite their softness.”

He also adds some helpful instructions: “The hot & spicy beef noodle soup is the top-left item on the third section of the order slip. Drawing an upward-pointing triangle next to the check mark is the way to indicate the big noodles.”

ASJ Restaurant [South Bay]
1698 Hostetter Road, San Jose
408-441-8168
Location

Board Link: ASJ, Taiwanese beef noodle soup, San Jose: report

Sublime Sesame Bread

K K has found some superb sesame bread. It’s called Hamati bread, and it’s from a company called Aroma’s. It’s a big doughnut-shaped thing with a hollow center and sesame seeds on top. The strong roasted-sesame flavor permeates everything. “It smelled so delicious through the bag I had to get one to try. And it tasted really good, chewy but not hard and the sesame seeds on top really added to the texture and enjoyment … I think this will appeal to lovers of all sorts of bread: naan, green onion pancake, or those Northern Chinese Halal Muslim style sesame seed flat cakes.”

It’s good reheated in the toaster or right out of the bag, and has been spotted at Berkeley Bowl, Dean’s Produce, and Milk Pail market. It’s produced in San Bruno, so it’s probably available elsewhere around the Bay Area, too.

Berkeley Bowl
[East Bay]
2020 Oregon Street, Berkeley
510-843-6929
Location

Dean’s Produce [Peninsula]
451 Broadway, Millbrae
650-692-1042
Location

The Milk Pail
[Peninsula]
2585 California Street, Mountain View
650-941-2505
Location

Board Link: Superb Hamati Sesame Bread from Aroma’s San Bruno

Some Surprisingly Superb Brisket

The secret of Pit Boss Barbeque? It’s highly variable, and you have to figure out who’s in the kitchen. Civil Bear’s first visit yielded OK meats, and inedible sides. His second visit: “the moistest, tenderest brisket in the Bay Area … And this time the sides were fantastic!”

adrienne156 explains what’s going on. There are different people who cook there: “Mr. Boss, Mrs. Boss, and ‘others’. The meat is always smoked the night before, but the sides are always spot on whenever Mr. Boss is in the kitchen.” Mrs. Boss is also good, but the worst meals adrienne156 has had are when one of the others is in the kitchen. adrienne156 recommends brisket, “which always has a lovely pink smoke ring but did come to me overcooked on one occasion,” and hot links, full of finely ground meat, with crisp skin and a slight kick. And the pulled pork? “Moist with a light smoke … probably one of the best I’ve had out and that’s saying a lot because my friends are self-described pork-a-holics who spend most of their weekends smoking something.”

Pit Boss Barbeque [East Bay]
12889 San Pablo Avenue, Richmond
510-237-1996
Location

Board Link: Pit Boss BBQ revisited…

Lentil Love

barefootpris needed ways to use a surfeit of lentils, and hounds came through with plenty of ideas.

Euonymous likes lentils with kielbasa, as a soup or a heftier bean dish. orangewasabi bakes green lentils and brown rice together in equal quantities, and uses this is a base for a stir-fry. It is “a lot heartier than just rice with a nice nutty taste.”

One of renz’s favorite lentil dishes is mujadarrah, which is lentils with rice and caramelized crispy onions. Val loves this lentil salad with balsamic vinaigrette. She replaces the radicchio with crispy romaine lettuce, and tops it with a few dabs of goat cheese.

Kagey likes this “very simple and forgiving” recipe for Italian lentil soup (see sixth paragraph).

Board Link: Tons of Lentils

Sushi Rice Is Risotto Rice

Deftly crossing the globe, the short-grain rice used for sushi also makes excellent risotto. Sam Fujisaka explains that sushi rice and Arborio are very similar. The California-developed Calrose rice can also be used for risotto, says Antilope, who adds that this variety makes a really creamy rice pudding too.

Board Link: Can I make risotto with sushi rice?

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