Digest

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“Lip-Smacking, Orange-Napkin Stained Heaven”

Jamaican beef patties are basically flat Hot Pockets, with an orange-yellow crust and a smooth smear of spicy beef inside, explains rworange.

The patties at Art’s Jamaican Market are “lip-smacking, orange-napkin stained heaven,” says bunky. “These are the same patties I tasted every vacation in St. Thomas. … My brother and I saved our quarters, and for $1.00 each we watched a lady roll out orange dough with an old vodka bottle, pat some stuff into it and then fry it in a pan filled with oil. These are the exact same color, and texture and taste. I even have the exact same heartburn.” Art’s patties have “the same spicing: slightly, ever so hot, but mostly it’s the texture of the meat, it’s like refried black beans with funky chewy bits.” Even though they’re made from beef, they have the funkiness of goat—sort of like how pastrami is basically bacon made from cow.

goddess.girl thinks the hot beef patties are very good, but the chicken curry ones are even better. They’re stuffed with a nice yellow chicken curry. She usually buys a dozen and puts them in her freezer. She also recommends Art’s bulla bread, which is “like a cross between gingerbread and a soft molasses cookie.”

Art’s is mostly a grocery. It’s a good source for frozen Caribbean goodies such as goat meat, salt cod, and breadfruit. Try some ginger beer, or maybe a Ting soda, too.

Art’s Jamaican Market [East Bay]
4042 Broadway, Oakland
510-652-2168
Location

Board Link: Oakland - Beef patty and ginger beer at Art’s Jamaican Market on Broadway

The Great Meatball Sandwiches of San Francisco

The gold standard for meatball sandwiches is Pasta Gina, says lmarie, where they are made with perfectly textured, “wonderfully seasoned, huge meatballs,” cut in half and served on an Acme roll, with thick, deeply flavorful marinara, and high-quality mozzarella cheese. “These meatballs have character,” agrees ChowFun_derek, who adds that they’re terrifically textured, with a good load of herbage and truly superior tomato sauce.

lmarie’s second-place meatball sandwich comes from Morty’s Deli, which also serves an obviously homemade meatball, with hints of fennel and oregano, on a good, substantial roll.

Nancy Berry really likes the delicious meatball sandwich at Amici’s. The only problem is they stop serving it at 3 p.m. every day. Meanwhile, the meatball sub from King Foot Subs comes recommended, too. mc2 still enjoys one about twice a month.

Many folks also like Gambino’s, and not just for meatball subs. New Yorker Concetta is fond of “the sausage & pepper sub just like I remember from childhood.” But lmarie thinks Gambino’s subs are nowhere as good as those from Pasta Gina or Morty’s, and criticizes the “factory meatballs with no particular seasoning except lots of salt. … The worst part was the cheap factory roll, which instantly turned into a sopping pad of marinara-flavored cotton.”

Pasta Gina [Noe Valley]
741 Diamond Street, San Francisco
415-282-0738
Location

Morty’s Delicatessen [Tenderloin]
280 Golden Gate Avenue, San Francisco
415-567-3354
Location

Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria [SOMA]
216 King Street, San Francisco
415-546-6666
Location

Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria [Marina]
2200 Lombard Street, San Francisco
415-885-4500
Location

King Foot Submarine [Haight]
258 Divisadero Street, San Francisco
415-431-5217
Location

Gambino’s [Financial District]
1 Embarcadero Center, San Francisco
415-834-9120
Location

Board Link: Meatball Sandwich Hunt

Vibrant, Seductive Vietnamese

Thien Long is fantastic, an overwhelming barrage of vibrant, seductive food, says Carb Lover.

The highlight of the meal is cha ca, says RWCFoodie. “The fish was succulent and flavorful with no ‘off’ flavors.” Chim nuong—grilled, butterflied quail—is the best version RWCFoodie has ever had. So many places overcook their birds to desiccation, but not here. This quail is “truly delicious,” says David Wishart, with a sweet, smoky flavor.

There’s a great seafood hot pot. It is a shockingly good bargain, with tons of seafood. One order costs $20 and could easily feed two.

Thien Long is run by the folks who used to run Pho Thien Long. This new place is larger, with spacious tables, comfy chairs, and lots of natural light. The menu’s bigger, too.

Thien Long Restaurant [South Bay]
3005 Silver Creek Road, San Jose
408-223-6188
Location

Board Link: South Bay Viet lunch series resumes: Thien Long

A Gumbo for Lent

Gumbo z’herbes, a traditional New Orleans Lenten meal, is a whole different pot o’ soup than the rich, roux-thickened, andouille-laden gumbos that are cooked year-round. speyerer explains that the name is a contraction of gumbo aux herbes. The dish is made with greens, and the more types used the better. Tradition holds that an odd number will bring good luck, and the number you use will be the number of friends you’ll make in the coming year.

Because it’s a Lenten dish, gumbo z’herbes traditionally is made without meat, though MakingSense says it is usually cooked with meat broth. It’s a light dish, made without roux, and unlike other gumbos it’s not served over rice. speyerer’s family recipe, which serves 20, doesn’t use meat broth. Here it is:

1 bunch mustard greens

1 bunch collard greens

1 bunch turnip greens

1 bunch spinach

1 bunch scallions

1 bunch Italian parsley

1 bunch watercress

1 bunch beet tops

1 bunch carrot tops

1 bunch radish tops

1 bunch dandelion greens

1/2 head green leaf lettuce (not iceberg)

1/2 head cabbage

2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil (enough to just cover the bottom of the pot)

2 medium onions, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 small turnips, peeled and cubed

2 cups dry white wine

Water to cover

3 teaspoons Creole seasoning

Wash greens and drain well. Cut out stems and center ribs and tear greens into small pieces. In a cast iron pot, add enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom of the pot and heat oil until it is hot. Sauté onion and garlic until soft. Add greens and cubed turnip. Add wine, water to cover, and Creole seasoning and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook until greens are tender, about 2 hours. Serve greens hot with their cooking liquid or “pot likker.”

Board Link: Lenten Treat? --- Gumbo Z’herbes

How Green Is Your Garlic?

Green garlic is a great find in early spring farmers’ markets; you can also occasionally find it in season in some Chinese produce markets. It resembles scallions but has a distinctly garlicky scent and subtle garlic flavor. It’s delicious sliced and added to a sauté, or stir-fried over high heat with beef or lamb and finished simply with soy sauce and sesame oil. LNG212 minces green garlic along with fresh herbs and mixes them into soft, fresh goat cheese to make a tasty spread (with a little milk to loosen if necessary). torty uses green garlic to make salsa in a food processor with well-drained canned tomatoes, cilantro, chipotles en adobo, lime juice, and a touch of sugar.

Board Link: Green Garlic

Haddock, the Other White Fish

Haddock is a firm-fleshed, mild white fish; it can be used interchangeably with cod and can sometimes stand in for halibut. It’s a traditional choice for frying in fish and chips, but it cooks up well in plenty of other ways.

When baking haddock, flavoring can be as simple as salt and pepper with a splash of white wine and a squeeze of lemon, or a sprinkle of minced garlic and a slick of olive oil. For a homey dish, put salted-and-peppered fillets in a greased baking dish, coat them with mayo, and press on a mixture of crushed Ritz crackers and just enough melted butter to wet the crumbs slightly. Bake at 350°F for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. For a Mediterranean twist, bake with a bit of olive oil, marinara sauce, broth (not enough to completely cover the fish), artichokes, olives, capers, and cherry or plum tomatoes at 400°F for around 20 minutes, uncovered.

Sautéed haddock can also take on many guises. Turn it into fish tacos by seasoning appropriately (e.g., with chili powder, garlic, and cumin) and sautéing in a bit of oil, breaking it into pieces as it cooks. When it’s done, squeeze on fresh lime juice and serve in tortillas with shredded cabbage and Mexican crema or sour cream, etc. jayt90 likes haddock in cheese sauce: Sauté scallions in butter, add the fillets, and sear briefly, then remove to a plate. Prepare the sauce in the pan, making a roux with flour and the butter you’ve used for sautéing, whisking in white wine and cream and some herbs, and melting in some cheese. Return the fish to the pan and gently spoon the sauce over it until it’s cooked, three to five minutes.

Poaching is another fast, simple way to prepare haddock. Bring water or broth and some white wine to a bare simmer (add some herbs if you like), poach the fillets for a few minutes, and then turn and poach a few minutes more—not more than 10 minutes per inch of thickness, and less will probably do it. Remove the fish to a warm plate. If you like, you can boil down the poaching liquid, add a pat of butter, and use it as a sauce. Poach chunks of haddock in any saucy base you might prepare: a Thai curry with coconut milk, a tomato-fennel fish stew, or any kind of soup.

Board Link: ISO–Haddock ideas

If You Hate Cilantro, You’ll Really Hate Culantro

Culantro is not a misspelling of cilantro. The two herbs are similar in aroma, but different in appearance. In flavor and aroma, culantro is like cilantro, only more so, says Das Ubergeek. He adds that it is stronger and soapier, in the same way galangal compares to ginger. “If you have people who hate cilantro, they’re really going to loathe culantro,” says Das Ubergeek.

Culantro is used throughout the Spanish diaspora in Mexico and Puerto Rico. “Culantro is used in almost everything here in Puerto Rico,” says Echotraveler, especially soffritto. It even shows up in Vietnamese cuisine, often on herb plates, to be torn up in pho or used for wrapping bites of food. Its Vietnamese name is ngo gai, and it’s sometimes known as sawtooth herb. In Mexico, it’s called cilantro extranjero, says kare_raisu.

Board Link: Culantro - assistance

Corn in a Cup

In Mexico and the southwestern United States, grilled or roasted corn is available freshly cooked by street vendors. This delicious concoction is also available off the cob, in a convenient bowl preparation—kind of a deconstructed version of the original, says dude.

A bowl of corn kernels (there is debate as to whether they’re fresh or canned) is topped with a hefty dollop of mayonnaise, a few tablespoons of queso seco or Cotijo cheese, chili powder, and a squirt of butter substitute (kare_raisu says that stuff is Parkay).

This preparation is known in Mexico as elote en vaso, or corn in a cup, says Eat_Nopal. In Mexico, the corn is usually taken off the grill and shucked in front of you, but in Los Angeles in February, the vendors scoop the corn out of big pots and then squirt on the toppings.

How is it? mollyomormon likes it, but finds that the mayo makes it too rich to eat a lot of.

Board Link: Info on corn/mayo street food?

Brent & Sam’s Cookies

comestible is a fan of Brent & Sam’s cookies. They’re sold in health food stores, but they’re not low fat or anything—just good quality, and made with real butter and unbleached flour. “They’re crisp, but real,” says comestible. “Better than any supermarket variety I know.”

Emme finds the key lime white chocolate flavor to be stellar. Razorback agrees that they’re some of the best “store bought” cookies you can buy. They used to be available only around Little Rock, Arkansas, but they’ve recently hit the big time and are now available across the country. Enjoy.

Board Link: Commercial chocolate chip cookies -- my current fave

Classic Steamed Pudding with Suet

A classic English Christmas plum pudding, says paulj, is made with suet. This is a crumbly textured fat cut from beef kidneys. The little lumps of suet melt in the steamed pudding, creating a porous texture and imparting an unmistakable flavor. “Without the suet, the pudding would be dense like fruitcake,” says paulj.

The best place to get suet in the United States, says Caroline1, is from an independent butcher that specializes in dry-aged beef, or that at least carries dry-aged beef. “It is traditionally considered the best kind of suet,” says Caroline1. “It doesn’t come in a brand. Just out of the carcass!” Failing that, any butcher will likely be able to procure some suet for you. Even well-stocked grocery stores sometimes have it—especially if they’re in Canada.

Vegetarians have few good options when it comes to making authentic steamed pudding. Butter and coconut oil lack the crumbly texture of real suet, and have their own characteristic flavors. In the UK, vegetarian suet substitute is available on supermarket shelves, says Harters. It looks and works like the real thing, but good luck finding it in American grocery stores.

Board Link: Vegetarian Suet?

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