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Serious Libations

The cocktails are fantastic at Drink, the Fort Point bar with a laserlike focus on fine drinks. Manager John Gertsen, formerly the bar brains of No. 9 Park, begins with the ice: Each cocktail comes with a certain kind of ice, either machine made or custom chipped from a giant 50-pound block in front of customers, a sight entertaining enough to ensure that “ice bar” seats are coveted. The cocktails are then made with freshly squeezed fruit juices, house-made syrups, and fresh herbs, a point that will be driven home to the customer if she happens to order a basil gimlet, which hounds adore.

Other picks: the Mint Julep, served in a traditional frosty silver cup; the 1794 cocktail of rye, Campari, and sweet vermouth; and the punch drinks, mixed up in a big bowl for group imbibing. One bummer: a limited bar menu that features just-OK deviled eggs for $4 an egg. “See, the challenge with a place like Drink is that on your arrival it’s the giddiness of anticipation of the superb cocktails that might lower your guard against what you’d otherwise see as questionable snack prices,” says wcantonese, “and after a couple of said cocktails, it’s pretty much the liquor itself taking over that job. Either way, you’re feeling expansive, and before you know it saying things like, ‘Eggs all around!’”

Many hounds also complained about the bar being too crowded to find a seat, particularly on weekend nights and during the after-work rush. Drink tries to manage the crowds by greeting walk-ins and assigning seats at the bar according to when they arrive. This can confuse people who come in and see empty seats at the bar, only to be told they’re saved. Don’t be alarmed, says jgg13: “Two of us went around 7pm on Saturday two weeks ago, walked in, waited under 5 minutes and had seats at the ice block bar where Misty proceeded to take really good care of us.”

Drink [Fort Point]
348 Congress Street, Boston
617-695-1806

Board Link: Drink opening tomorrow?

Craigie Street: Still Sweet

The slavishly devoted throngs who have adored Chef Tony Maws’s Craigie Street Bistrot since it opened in Cambridge in 2003 must be breathing a sigh of relief right about now: The new Craigie on Main appears to be about as good as it was in the old space, now set in a sleek dining room with an open kitchen that’s worthy of Maws’s talents.

Craigie’s new bar menu is a big draw, with small, tapas-size plates that show off Maws’s “luxurious take on French Bistro cooking with a locavore slant,” according to MC Slim JB. WineAG advises hounds to sit in the bar area even if they plan on ordering dinner, because bar patrons can order from the main restaurant menu and the bar menu, while in the dining room the bar menu is off limits. “So the bar offers the best of both worlds… you can have whatever you want in a relaxed atmosphere… trust me, you won’t find food like this in any other bar around,” says WineAG. Several early Craigie on Main adopters talked up the smelts, the sashimi specials, and the seared pork belly. kimfair1 loved the $80 six-course “surprise me!” menu, in which, she says, “the wow factor was huge.” Other dishes hit the wrong gustatory notes; in particular, the polenta is not up to snuff.

The new location is a lot more upscale than the old, somewhat gritty basement room. Some worry that the nicer digs will spark pretentiousness and that “dressing-up-for-the-sake-of-dressing-up thing,” as Sgt Snackers puts it. But despite the upgrade, Sgt Snackers swears that Craigie is “about the food, which is stellar, and it need not be any fancier than it has to be to have a good time. So wear your sweaters with pride.”

Craigie on Main [Downtown]
853 Main Street, Cambridge
617-497-5511

Board Link: Have you been to the Craigie St Bistro at it’s new location?

Xiao Long Bao with Tons of Crab

A table of hounds tried the fare at Gourmet Dumpling House a few days after Christmas, and as Dr.Jimbob puts it, “a title like ‘Gourmet Snack House’ would be closer to the target on this place. They aren’t really a dumpling house at all, but seem to serve up a variety of treats from a range of Chinese coastal cuisines (in this case, Shanghai/Zhejiang, Fujian/Taiwan and Guangdong) with expert skill, though not aiming for the rarefied or the sublime.”

Best thing on the table: sautéed eel with yellow chives, which Dr.Jimbob calls “expert” and “flavorful,” if not quite classic Shanghainese because it didn’t come served in a pool of raw garlic and oil. Beware, those who haven’t ordered the dish before: the preparation of very small eel fillets does not resemble the barbecued eel one finds in Japanese restaurants. “The first time I had it in New York, I was grossed out by the sight of what looked like worms on the plate,” says Dr.Jimbob. “But then I tried it. And I haven’t been able to get enough of them since.”

Dr.Jimbob is also crazy about the Taiwanese-style rice cake with pork and vegetables, a savory patty of perfectly al dente, nongreasy rice with a “beautifully balanced” meat and vegetable mix served on top. Other hounds are fans of Gourmet Dumpling House’s xiao long bao (a.k.a. soup dumplings), which are nicely formed and contain an unusually generous amount of crabmeat. They’re served on a steamy cloth napkin instead of the typical lettuce or cabbage leaf, and Wursthof says “the cloth napkin actually released the dumplings a little easier,” important for those intent on slurping every last bit of soup from the dumplings.

Gourmet Dumpling House [Chinatown]
52 Beach Street, Boston
617-338-6223

Board Links: Gourmet Dumpling House ChowDown, 12/27/2008
quick lunch at Gourmet Dumpling in chinatown

San Francisco 2008 Top 10 Roundup

1. De Afghanan Moves Up

2. Sushi of the Highest Order
3. New, True Turkish
4. Po’ Boys and Mo’
5. Kampai House Chef Back in His Element
6. Dive Bar’s Unexpectedly Divine Food
7. It’s Like Eating Bacon Buttercream
8. China Village Chefs Are Back
9. Little Michoacán in Redwood City
10. Brunch at the Farley Bar

Home Cooking 2008 Top 10 Roundup

1. Lots of Heat and a Touch of Velvet
2. Sweet, Spicy Cowboy Candy
3. Inspirational Food Porn Website
4. Give Your Steak a Rest
5. Fish Sauce Adds a Stealthy Zing
6. Ultimate Brownies
7. Online Cookbook Treasure Trove
8. Pizza on the Grill
9. Simple Seafood Sauce
10. Easy Vanilla Extract

General Topics 2008 Top 10 Roundup

1. Crusty, Gooey, Gritted Bread
2. Is Saimin the Love Child of Ramen and Pho?
3. Cider Doughnuts
4. Zucchini-Enhanced Coffee
5. Filipino Marinated Milkfish
6. Minerality in Wine
7. Chopped Liver
8. Gland to Meet You
9. Neba Neba Natto
10. Eat the Beetles

Los Angeles 2008 Top 10 Roundup

1. Secret Delights of Ghana
2. The Dumpling of Legend
3. Beef Heart Extravaganza at Anticucheria Danessi
4. The Best Pho in the San Gabriel Valley
5. Portuguese Comfort Food
6. A Hidden Pocket of Latin American Awesome
7. Japanese Comfort Food, with Yuba
8. Nothing Seduces Like a Tongue Sandwich
9. Seven Courses of Goat, Including Blood
10. Pun Choi: The Soul of Old Hong Kong

New York 2008 Top 10 Roundup

1. In Bay Ridge, of All Places, Superior Szechuan
2. Smoke Meets Meat at Kafana
3. Roberto Fires Up the Pizza Oven
4. At Azabu, Notes from the Sushi Underground
5. Square Meals, Made with Care, on the Upper East Side
6. Asian Bites from Here and There
7. At Philoxenia, a Welcome Greek Revival
8. New Bean Curd Spot in Koreatown
9. Paella Good to the Bottom of the Pan
10. New in Queens, Splendid Pastries and Serious Espresso

Tamale Time Is Running Out

“The cranberry tamal is probably one of the best tamal dulce that I’ve had,” says rworange of Tacubaya, which seems to be rotating its tamal menu: The dulce used to be raisin, the online menu lists pineapple, and now there’s cranberry. The cranberry filling has a touch of spice; the masa is light and moist, drizzled with not-too-sweet cajeta (caramelized milk) that sets it all off perfectly.

Mi Fiesta, which sells at farmers’ markets in Napa, has a tempting array of sweet holiday tamales: strawberries and cream, coconut-pineapple, and cinnamon-raisin. Coconut-pineapple is several cuts above the usual pineapple-flavored hunk o’ masa, says rworange, with big chunks of fruit and shredded coconut throughout. If you reheat at home, steam them rather than microwaving—it makes all the difference.

Tacubaya [East Bay]
1788 Fourth Street, Berkeley
510-525-5160

Mi Fiesta Catering Company [Napa]
2827 Laurel Street, Napa
707-224-1592

Board Links: Berkeley: Tacubaya–The agony and the ecstasy … quesadillas en nogada and cranberry tamales
The tamales zone–Mi Fiesta pineapple and coconut tamal

Get Double Duck’d at Ramen Halu

Time’s running out to try Ramen Halu’s limited-edition duck ramen, served at dinner only. “The roast duck stock is not nearly as heavy and full-bodied in texture as the Halu [original pork bone broth], yet has more complex and intense flavors with a deep earthiness from the shiitake and brighter briny notes,” says Melanie Wong.

The firm, kind of brittle whole-wheat noodles have a slightly nutty taste and hold their own in the flavorful broth. No duck thigh meat is apparent in the soup, but you get roasted duck breast on a separate plate with a cloud of shredded Tokyo negi (giant scallions), bamboo shoots, and roasted onion. “Sure, I wish that the duck’s skin were crisper with more fat rendered, but I loved the buttery-textured, bloody-rare meat and the sweet-savory seasoning,” Melanie says.

Kamo (duck) ramen is $16.50.

Ramen Halu [South Bay]
375 Saratoga Avenue, San Jose
408-246-3933

Board Link: Limited edition duck ramen at Ramen Halu SJ, anyone wanna take one for the team?

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