Digest

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Aunt Mary’s Got What You Want

The recently opened Aunt Mary’s Cafe is making a splash in Oakland, with an eclectic, globe-trotting menu and top-notch baked goods, say hounds.

Southern bubble and squeak consists of a crisply fried mess of potato and finely chopped greens, lightly sauced with gravy. “It was sooooo good,” says ace. It comes with two eggs any style, a side of slightly spicy greens, and a biscuit.

Those biscuits are great, adds Hunicsz, and so are homemade breads, like sweet potato bread. Afternoons bring half-off deals on pastry with coffee/tea.

Huevos divorciados with housemade salsa and Zorba the Omelette (with good-quality feta and olives) are solid at brunch, and there’s good buzz about the Hangtown Frytata. Also on the menu are updated congee and calas, an old-fashioned New Orleans specialty of deep-fried rice cakes. ace describes them as being “like fried rice pudding dusted with sugar.”

Running out of superlatives, ace insists that the ginger-pear cake, the pineapple upside-down cake, and the cornbread are each the best of their kind. But the supply varies; the baker says she only prepares two selections a day.

Aunt Mary’s Cafe [East Bay]
4307 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland
510-601-9227

Board Links: Aunt Mary’s Cafe- Temescal
Best Ginger Cake I Ever Ate- Oakland

Point-Point and Chow

Cabalen is a pretty and cheery new Filipino restaurant in Rodeo,” says rworange, in a sunny converted home with picnic tables on a wooden deck as well as indoor seating. Open since mid-September, it seems to have a following among Filipinos as well as non-Filipinos.

This is steam table fare (or point-point, as the Filipinos call it), but it looks really fresh and appetizing. Vegetables are vibrantly colorful and the macaroni salad is a tasty twist on the basic, with lots of pineapple, chopped veggies, and a bit of chicken. Their fish looks good.

For dessert, ginataang bilo-bilo, a warm and comforting coconut dessert soup, is chock full of cubed taro, sweet potato, ube, rice balls, and tapioca.

Small containers are $3, rice plates start at $4.75.

Cabalen Filipino Cuisine [East Bay]
347 Parker Avenue, Rodeo
510-799-6783

Board Link: Rodeo: Cabalen Filipino Cuisine–lavish lavender ginataang bilo-bilo

Pupusa Pleasure

In the sea of mediocre Mexican and other ethnic restaurants near Pleasanton, La Pupusa House is an oasis of tastiness. The pupusas are just great, says kirinraj: “Slightly crisp on the outside with brown patches, a thin masa shell, and a generous filling.” The hand-patted pupusas are a generous 6–7 inches in diameter. Try revueltas (bean, cheese and chicharrones, or pork rind) or queso con rajas (cheese with roasted chiles) as fillings.

They do an “immensely satisfying” chicken soup, too, “with lots of chunks of chayote, potato, carrot, noodles, and a large bone in piece of chicken, and part of a chicken liver (more appetizing than it sounds),” says kirinraj. A huge bowl comes with two thick handmade tortillas.

The pupusa plate menu item is not a great deal for pupusa lovers, warns A Amore. For $5.95, you get one pupusa, plus a small amount of rice and beans and a couple bites of curtido (spicy cabbage slaw). Better to get two pupusas at $2.75 each.

La Pupusa House [East Bay]
1550 Railroad Avenue, Livermore
925-443-1268

Board Link: La Pupusa House, new salvadoran restaurant- Livermore, ca

Recipes from the Pumpkin Patch

It’s pumpkin season, and Chowhounds take pumpkin cuisine beyond pie, with favorite savory recipes and cakes. nofunlatte recommends this black bean pumpkin soup. yamalam likes a creamy puréed pumpkin soup. greygarious likes puréed pumpkin soup with curry powder (sautéed with the aromatics) and chopped apple.

bear calls this baked pumpkin packed with bread and cheese very good. She microwaves the empty pumpkin for about five minutes before filling it to cut down on baking time.

upstate girl says Paula Deen’s pumpkin gooey butter cake is “a huge hit. Really good.” drewb123 makes these spiced pumpkin cupcakes for Halloween.

Board link: Your favorite pumpkin dishes?

Shortcut Stock Substitutes

Several Chowhounds are fans of Better Than Bouillon stock base as a shortcut when small amounts of stock are called for. There’s “no comparison to those salty bouillon cubes,” says jorame, who’s a fan of the chicken flavor. “When you just need just a little enhancement—such as flavoring a stir fry, boosting sauces, making rice pilaf, adding zip to soups, stews—it’s great!” The Professor says it makes a great broth in a pinch, especially when simmered with a bit of meat. jcattles adds a teaspoon of chicken base to her mashed potatoes with milk and butter, giving them great flavor.

As a vegetarian, arifa thinks that “nothing beats their No Chicken and No Beef products when a recipe calls for meaty broths that I can’t use.” MMRuth keeps the vegetable base on hand, and oakjoan uses the mushroom quite often. C. Hamster thinks Minor’s Soup Bases have better flavor, though.

More Than Gourmet concentrates can be used as is as you would demi-glace, or diluted as stock. “They’re pricey,” says nemo, “but all the work is done!”

Board link: Better than bouillon?

Lighter Fall Veggie Dishes

Take a break from the rich foods of the upcoming holiday season with these ideas for lighter vegetable sides. CeeBee finds that mashing a few carrots with potatoes adds an appealing sweetness that doesn’t leave her missing cream and butter. versificatrix does the same with parsnips. galleygirl says boiling potatoes for mashing in vegetable or chicken broth or skim milk “ups the tasty quotient.”

RosemaryHoney fills the cavities of pie pumpkins or winter squash with unsweetened applesauce and bakes, or makes a savory stuffed squash by sautéing chopped onions, apples, celery, and red cabbage with sage, deglazing the pan with apple cider, and stuffing the mixture in acorn or butternut squash halves before baking. RVAwino loves spaghetti squash with sausage filling. She uses chicken sausage.

operagirl likes celery Victor and shredded Brussels sprouts sautéed in olive oil with garlic and red pepper flakes. RosemaryHoney roasts assorted vegetables by tossing them with a teaspoon or two of olive oil, sprinkling with salt and a dash of sugar, placing on a heavy, preheated baking sheet, and roasting at 425°F until caramelized.

Board link: Hi, health-conscious Chowhounds — best seasonal vegetable recipes, please!

Drink Something Hot, Thick, and Rich

As the days get colder, it’s the perfect time to grab a hot cup of atole, a Central American corn beverage that’s traditional at Mexican Day of the Dead celebrations, says Pat Hammond. “Tamales and atole is my favorite breakfast for early, cold mornings in the highland coffee growing areas of Mexico,” says Sam Fujisaka. Buy Mexican atole, made from masa harina, from tamale stands and taco trucks—the texture varies from thick and reminiscent of porridge, to thin and milky. It’s much less sweet than either hot chocolate or arroz con leche. Pat Hammond finds that it has a pleasantly slick texture.

Chocolate atole is called champurrado, and fruit atoles are often available, particularly pineapple. Melanie Wong has even had a pineapple atole with no corn present at all, just crushed pineapple, brown sugar, and peppercorns for spicy flavor.

Board link: Atole season

Chuao Chocolatier Hot Chocolate

“The hot chocolate from Chuao Chocolatier is the best I’ve ever had,” says brooke.with.an.e. It’s truly instant—it has nonfat dry milk in the mix, so you can just add hot water. Available flavors include Spicy Maya, Winter (a gingerbread flavor), and Abuela (traditional chocolate).

“I love this stinking hot chocolate so much that I’ve sprinkled it on hot popcorn and used it to make a chocolate sauce for ice cream,” says brooke.with.an.e. “Simply divine … and all natural!” There are actual chunks of chocolate in the mix, which can melt and harden if left out in the heat. However, beth1, another fan of Chuao Chocolatier hot chocolate, has sent some to her husband in Iraq with no problem.

Board link: Ok Chowers, need your help w/instant hot cocoa

Christmas Savory Oranges in Olive Oil

domes9 has a family tradition, origin unknown, of making a Christmas dish of sliced oranges marinated in olive oil and fresh garlic. Her great grandmother used garlic powder, but nowadays the family uses fresh garlic.

It’s definitely a Sicilian specialty, says Cheese Boy, given all the great citrus fruits grown there. A savory orange salad may be known as “insalata di arance,” says Cheese Boy, or perhaps as “insalata agli agrumi” or “insalata di agrumi,” suggests maria lorraine. Her favorite version is the simplest: sliced oranges (or “agrumi,” a combination of citrus fruits), olive oil, a small amount of garlic, and salt. “In Spain, one of my favorite side dishes is sliced oranges sprinkled with sugar and served with really good olive oil,” says maria lorraine. paulj has had a Spanish salad of oranges, thinly sliced raw red onions, and cumin, finished with black pepper, mint, olive oil, and salt. And Caroline1 has had a similar dish of sweet Valencia oranges tossed with olive oil, red onions, and chopped parsley.

Board link: Oranges with olive oil and garlic

Portuguese Fried Seafood Pastries and Custard Tarts

Natas Pastries is your stop for everything Portuguese, round, and fried. The place is run by two bakers–one is Portuguese, the other Belgian, and they both come from families of bakers, explains noahbites.

The absolute standout is rissois: a breaded, fried, disk-shaped pastry, filled with a creamy mixture of crab and shrimp. “It’s exactly the type of thing I usually hate for being overly rich and tasting only vaguely reminiscent of what would be considered seafood,” says noahbites. “But this stuff is the real deal. The seafood is fresh, the sauce is light and well seasoned and the croquette is crispy. Like a crab cake, this seems like something that can either go very well or very poorly. Here, it goes very well.”

There are small, very crunchy seafood croquettes, and simple, satisfying beef pastries. There is Portuguese pineapple soda, made with real fruit juice. There is excellent caldo verde—a soup of kale and mashed potatoes. And the sopa de pedra, a rustic vegetable soup, is satisfying and homey.

There are great dessert pastries, too. Apple brasileira is brilliant—“a soft, sweet apple tart with crunchy toasted almonds on top is pretty brilliant,” explains noahbites. “But the natas, for which the shop is named, is what I will be picking up for dinner parties in the future.” Natas are little objects about the size of a mini quiche, with a flaky puff pastry shell and crème brûlée filling. Natas sells various specially flavored natas, but the original plain nata “simply can’t be beat,” says noahbites.

Natas Pastries [San Fernando Valley–East]
13317 Ventura Boulevard #D, Sherman Oaks
818-788-8050

Board Link: Review: Natas Pastries in Sherman Oaks (Portuguese)

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