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Scrumptious Pumpkin Scones

chef chicklet worked hard to perfect her scone recipe. Chowhounds in search of the elusive perfect pumpkin scone are sold, calling these outstanding, fantastic, and amazingly tender. Cut back on the cinnamon if you want the pumpkin flavor to play a more prominent role.

chef chicklet begins by making a purée of three roasted sweet potatoes, or the equivalent amount of roasted pumpkin or sweet winter squash with 1 cup of cream. She freezes the remaining purée so she’ll have it on hand for making more scones.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup cold butter

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar

2 tablespoons cinnamon

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup cold pumpkin or sweet potato purée with cream

1 egg

1 tablespoon vanilla

1/2 cup chopped pecans

1/2 cup golden raisins

Topping:

1 beaten egg

1 tablespoon cream

Raw sugar

Cinnamon

Chopped pecans

Heat oven to 375°F, with a rack in the middle position. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut butter into small pieces and refrigerate until needed. Sift flour, sugar, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt into a large bowl. Add butter to dry ingredients and cut it in with a pastry cutter until it’s the texture of coarse meal. In a separate bowl, whisk together cold purée, egg, and vanilla. Add to flour mixture and stir together with a fork, just until combined (do not overmix). Gently stir in pecans and raisins. Pour dough onto a lightly floured board and pat into a 7-inch circle, 1 to 1 1/2 inches high. Cut the circle into 8 even wedges and place them on the prepared baking sheet. For the topping, stir together egg and cream, and brush mixture over the tops of the scones. Sprinkle with raw sugar, cinnamon, and chopped pecans, and bake for 17 minutes.

Board Link: Looking for a surefire pumpkin scone recipe

School Cafeteria Coffee Cake

The coffee cake sold by the Los Angeles Unified School District a couple of decades back was so good, its alumni long to re-create its crumb-topped, nutmeg-scented goodness. Now they can, and you can share their Proustian moment, too; the LAUSD has posted the recipe.

Board Link: LAUSD Coffee Cake

A Tin of Bivalves Will Do

If you have a craving for clam chowder or spaghetti and clams, but you can’t get your hands on a bucket of fresh bivalves, hounds say canned clams do just fine in these dishes—as long as they’re high-quality brands. jayt90 recommends Clearwater Arctic Surf Clams; he likes the chowder recipe on the back of the can. These clams have a subtle flavor, better for New England chowder than Manhattan.

Some Chowhounds enjoy smoked oysters as a snack on crackers but say their flavor’s too strong for cooking. Plain canned oysters aren’t endorsed.

Board Link: Canned mussels/clams/oysters

Eat the Beetles

Sam Fujisaka has taken down his share of bugs, including deep-fried beetles. The beetles he enjoyed are the adults of a grub species that infests the rice and maize crops in Mindanao, the Philippines. The grubs eat the roots, but every year or two, they suicidally swarm in selected trees of a single species. People knock the adult beetles out of the trees and deep-fry them—and, indeed, they’re delicious. “The legs and antenna fall away, leaving a crispy and crunchy bite of deep-fried goodness,” says Sam Fujisaka. “And the rice and maize farmers get a measure of futile revenge.”

The commonly eaten insects of Mexico are even better, says Sam Fujisaka. Eat_Nopal likes escamoles, giant ant eggs sautéed in butter with epazote. They’re delicious in a similar way to roe and caviar, with a soft texture and a subtle, almost buttery flavor. Little Oaxacan grasshoppers have a smoky, nutty flavor; jumiles (beetles) are fruity and herbal. Jumiles have the distinction of commonly being eaten alive in tacos.

Deep-fried grasshoppers in Thailand taste like overdone french fries that have no insides left, says thew. And moh has had some great stir-fried grasshoppers with ginger and sesame, with an excellent, crunchy mouthfeel but not much flavor. They are like tofu in that they pick up the flavors of the seasonings without adding much flavor of their own, says moh.

Board Link: Ever eat a bug?

It’s Phaal, and You Have Been Warned

Phaal is the spiciest, most killer Indian curry there is, say Chowhounds, in large doses almost guaranteed to cause gastrointestinal damage. If you find vindaloo preparations at all painful, treat phaal—sometimes spelled phall—with respect. It’s a dish that strikes even spice addicts as gratuitously spicy. Phaal is more about pain than flavor, says Miss Needle. “While I am addicted to spicy foods,” she says, “I have no addiction to phaal.” She advises even confirmed spice addicts to request a small side order of phaal sauce, rather than risk the edibility of an entire meal. “I’ll have to say that phaal is the most excruciatingly spicy concoction I’ve ever tasted,” says Miss Needle. “It’s not fun.”

Board Link: Phall or Tindaloo…who has tried?

Just Add Bug Juice

The essence of the belostomatid beetle, known in Vietnamese as ca cuong, is a Vietnamese condiment used to gently perfume fish sauce (nuoc mam) and remove some of the fishiness. It smells like soft perfume, says phan1—similar to jasmine or rose water. It’s hard to believe this floral liquid comes from a beetle! Actually, most modern ca cuong available on the market is synthetic, though it’s chemically identical to the beetle extract, says septocaine_queen. You can probably buy it in a good Asian supermarket—look for a clear liquid in a bottle with a dropper. Only a few drops are necessary to mellow out an entire portion of nuoc mam.

Board Link: Help identifying a Vietnamese ingredient!

What’s with the Salty Licorice?

The strong, intense flavor of some licorice makes for two strongly divided camps of lovers and haters. Salted licorice is even weirder and more intense—and it finds even fewer devotees than regular licorice, even among those who really want to like it. Licorice comes in unsalted, salted, and even double-salted varieties.

What’s with the salt? It certainly heightens the licorice flavor, says MMRuth, a licorice-lover. Her favorites are double-salted Dutch licorice and licorice toffee from England. If you can, try just a bit before you invest in a whole jar, she says—it’s a very unusual taste, and you might not like it, even if you really want to. rockycat, another licorice-lover, received a gift of imported licorice from her devoted husband. Unfortunately, it was of the double-salted variety, and though she really wanted to like it, she found it inedible.

rHairing, who is half Danish, particularly favors Konsul Salmiak Pastillen salt licorice. “My sister craved it during her first pregnancy,” says rHairing. “I am wondering now if it helped with queasiness. To this day, though, my friends who have been brave enough to try it, immediately spit it out.”

Board Link: Licorice

Revived Vietnamese Restaurant Shows How It’s Done

There’s a lot of buzz in the local Vietnamese community about Pho Le Loi, which recently reopened under new family ownership, says Erik M.

The menu is a well-edited roster of about a dozen central and northern Vietnamese classics. You know that turmeric fish dish at Viet Soy Café folks have been talking about? Here you can get the real thing, cha ca thang long: turmeric-scented fillets with onion and dill, served spitting and sputtering in a cast iron pan.

Rice vermicelli with sliced grilled pork and pork patties in a warm dressing (bun cha ha noi) is another standout, besting the iconic version at Garden Grove’s Binh Minh.

There’s also bun bo hue, central Vietnamese–style noodle soup with pork hock, sliced beef shin, and house-made steamed pork loaf. Pho ga is considered a big draw, but Erik says it’s the same as what comes with Hainan chicken, and he found it overextracted.

Pho Le Loi [San Gabriel Valley]
107 Valley Boulevard, San Gabriel
626-307-5195
Location

Board Link: Pho Le Loi

Taiwan’s Answer to the Hamburger

A “Taiwanese burger,” or gua bao, is a madly wondrous thing: a mix of lean stew pork and melt-in-your-mouth fatty pork belly, salty-sour pickled cabbage, cilantro, and peanut-sugar powder in a fresh steamed bun that’s probably taken for granted as street food back in Taiwan.

The one at Yi Mei is delicious, says PandanExpress. The pork is meltingly tender, the bun nice and soft and smeared with a delectable sweet sauce.

Note that the former Yi Mei by the San Gabriel Superstore on Valley changed its name to Yee May, so it may not be under the same ownership, points out Chandavkl. The one in Rowland Heights is still good, though.

Yi Mei Deli [San Gabriel Valley]
18414 Colima Road, Rowland Heights
626-854-9246
Location

Board Link: 刮包 Gua Bao (taiwanese burger): HELP!

Indian Restaurant Has Flavor to Spare

India’s Flavor is pleasing the palates of Glendale-area hounds. The tiny place, which has cycled through several management teams, has tasty food and really nice owners.

Malai kofta, bhindi (okra), and the paneer in tomato sauce are stellar, says thewaz.

Meat samosas are delish, filled with a mix of lamb and chicken, says garvanza girl. They go really well with the chunky mint chutney.

Chicken saag has big chunks of chicken and creamy, flavorful spinach. The spicing is complex; order medium spicy, and what you get will have some nice heat and depth but won’t haunt you the next day (or in the middle of the night).

Also nice: chicken curry, vegetarian thali, and that eggplant dish with caramelized onions. Paratha and garlic naan are particularly good.

Saag paneer and coconut curry vegetables leave something to be desired, and the dal is pretty bland.

It’s truly small, just a half dozen tables.

India’s Flavor [San Fernando Valley–East]
3303 N. Verdugo Road, Glendale
818-957-5500
Location

Board Links: Review: India’s Flavor, Glendale/Montrose
India’s Flavor, Glendale?

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